Need Advice for 2015 Tacoma Suspension System

[sertguy]

I've done some research and still not sure what suspension would best fit my needs. There's a lot of good info out there, however there is also a lot of conflicting info. Therefore, I'm looking for real-world experience from folks who have used their aftermarket suspension systems extensively off and on road. I'm particularly interested in the pros and cons from people who have used different brands of suspension systems/components. Specifically, what type of suspension package/components should I be looking for???


The vehicle and use:


1. New to me 2015 Tacoma DC TRD, with 285-70r17 BFG AT KO2's. Bigger than I think I need but they came with the truck and are brand new. It's not my daily driver and I won't be "Baja
racing" on my trips. I drive at a "smell the roses" pace and don't beat on my vehicles.

2. On the back end I have a RCI RTT rack, Ezz Awn RTT, spare tire carrier, bumper and hi-lift jack always on the truck. I'm guessing I've added about an extra 350-375 pounds to the Taco.

3. On the front I plan to add Aulminess (70 pounds) front bumper with a winch.

4. The Taco will be used as an overland/exploring rig. Think: BDR's, White rim trail, Baja, forest roads, wash board roads, Imogene and California Pass in Colorado. Once in a blue moon I
end up traversing across some deep ruts or going thru a "baby Rubicon" rocky section that requires the use of the locker, but very seldom.

My questions:


1. Is a 2" lift enough or should I go 3" with the 285-70r17 BFG AT KO2's? I think 265's will be the next size, not sure tho.

2. Are more modifications needed for the 3" lift (extended brake lines, driveline length, axle shims etc.)?

3. Do I need , or should I purchase upper control arms? Are they worth it?

4. Reservoir shocks??? Same question as #2.

5. Leaf spring I'm thinking OEM Dakar EL095R or EL096R? I'm thinking the EL095r is the best option, but will they sage with 250-300 pounds of gear in the back?

Some of the options I've looked at:


1. ICON - I like them, but expensive and the leaf pack is 1.5" - 2" of lift. I think my Taco would sag with that leaf pack. Could buy w/o leaf pack but almost the same price $$$! And
would have to purchase OME leaf pack.

2. TOYTEC - Seem ok. So so reviews about adjusting ride height. Seems 2.5" is max. Not sure how long it would last. Cheaper than ICON and can purchase TOYTEC front and rear OME
separately at a decent price. Seems I could get a decent lift with the Dakar leaf pack for about $2500. To me, this seems to be the best middle of the road option. https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-tacoma/2005-2015/toytec-boss-suspension-system-2005-2015-toyota-tacoma/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7cfbpsWp2QIVA3ZeCh3DnwpdEAQYASABEgJ4cPD_BwE


3. OME 3" full suspension lift. http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/tacoma_suspension.htm Seems good. Only
2" in front, Dakar EL095R or EL096R in the rear, no UCA or reservoir shocks, no bling, but half the cost. Is this all I need???

4. OME BP51 lift. https://bilsteinlifts.com/shop/toyota-tacoma/2005-2015/complete-lift-kits-tacoma-05-and-up/old-
man-emu-bp51-suspension-kit-lift-kit-2005-2016-toyota-tacoma/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Oy9yMSp2QIVSpV-Ch0BPQIlEAQYASABEgJpIPD_BwE Similar to above lift but with reservoir
shocks. Seems like a higher quality than the above lift.

5. Mix and match??? Fox, King, ICON, Dever, All Pro, etc......

Suspension system priority:


1. Proper lift height with a vehicle that sit level.

2. Durable.

3. Ride quality.

4. Cost.

5. Little to no maintenance.

6. Bling/cool Factor.



I realize, to be on the safe side and I could just purchase the ICON stage 10 with custom Dever leaf pack and be done with it. But I'd rather save the money for trips and get the right suspension for the task at hand. Thanks for your help! And yes I know the RTT is to big and I'm looking for a smaller one.


Basically, those of you with firsthand experience, what suspension components would you use for my application?

 

[downhill]

If you are going to make any improvements to the truck, like bumpers or any load in the rear, then you will have to have suspension upgrades. I prefer an adjustable coilover in the front because it allows so much flexibility in ride height and leveling. I don't have any personal experience with Toytec, but they do use Eibach springs that have suffered from quality control issues in the last few years. Fox makes an excellent system but also uses Eibach springs. If you go Fox, I would swap the springs before I ever install them. Fox also has minimal customer support. Icon has suffered from cracked top hats on trucks that are used hard. That should never happen. That pretty much leaves King, which has had great reviews. I think King also offers a choice of spring rate, Fox does not. OME has recently come out with their BP-51 system. I don't know of anyone who has it, but generally OME is very well engineered and built. It is also one of the cheaper options. OME also offers a range of integrated springs for front and rear.

I have All-Pro rear springs and they have been great. I bought them 7 years ago. All-Pro has always had sketchy customer service. I've had several run ins with them. It seems that has gotten even worse, along with real quality issues. There are whole threads on other boards talking about them. I would stay clear.

I would also recommend budgeting in UCAs. You will gain a little suspension travel, and be able to dial in better alignment. I would research JBA and SPC upper control arms. SPC offers more adjustment, and they have recently upgraded their bushings which were a problem. JBA offers great design and quality, but no adjustment. In my opinion, suspension is one place you should not go cheap. Do it right once and you will have a platform you can build upon. The stock suspension barely supports a grocery run. Decide beforehand what you plan to do to the truck. If you want a steel bumper with a winch, that will dictate different choices than an aluminum bumper with no winch.

I''m not a fan of the 285s either. If you are not rubbing now it's because you have little caster. As mentioned, you will need a cab mount chop or cab mount relocation with a little trimming, or you will rub badly. You will probably need that with any decent sized tire, but tall and narrow will work and fit the best (255/85-16 or similar).

You mentioned occasional rock work. I would want at least 2" of suspension lift with a 32 or 33" tire. I have found that 3" of lift with 33's works very well in most challenging rock situations. Just last week I drove through Martin Canyon in Arizona, solo. You can google it (also called the Smiley Rock trail) Anything more than moderate rock work will require lower gears anyway. I have 4:56.

I would also recommend Headstrong Offroad as a source for components. They are knowledgeable, very helpful, and offer good pricing.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I run FOX 2.5" body shocks with no reservoirs and 14" long, 650 lb/in springs in the front of my Tacoma. This works fine for me to hold up an ARB bumper, winch with synthetic line, dual batteries, a Pelfreybilt front skid plate. Some people will go to 700 lb/in springs but my feeling is this is excessive and if you need that much spring you're overloading your truck. I don't have them cranked super tall, about 23" from hub center to fender lip and I have about 3.5" of spring compression.

I run OME CS047R rear springs, which are roughly equivalent to the new model EL096R. I'm considering adding another leaf to my pack and I don't have that much weight in the back yet. I have a tall shell, stock bumper, stock fuel tank skid, normal gear, Hi-Lift, fridge in the back. I run about 24" hub center to fender lip daily and it's pretty much flat loaded for camping or when there's bikes in the rack (I have a hitch mounted bicycle rack). When I get around to improving the bumper it will definitely need more spring and I don't intend to run a swing out. I run 2.0 shocks in the back, also no reservoirs.

If I could change anything I would get 2.5" or 2.0" with reservoirs in the back and just add an extra leaf straight away. Otherwise, very happy with the ride of my truck.

 

[Ryanmb21]

I’ve icon stuff on my 4Runner built similarly to how you describe for 7+ years and ~80k with no issues and it is still going strong. Same goes for the total chaos ucas. I run 265s


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[Adventurous]

I have had two Tacomas over the past 4 years and had OME nitrochargers, ICON shocks, and King shocks in various configurations between them. I ran them with 265/75s ATs, 255/85 MTs, and will soon be moving to a 285/75 MT.

My short and sweet advice, if your wallet allows it, my personal experience says to get Kings (can't recommend OME BP-51s at this point, not because they are bad, but because I don't have any time on them nor have I seen many real reviews). The Dakar leaf pack, other than being noisy, has performed well for me and has handled much, much more than 350 lbs with ease. It is a very good, budget friendly choice. I added the extra leaf to mine.

You will probably want adjustable upper control arms if you lift as there is only so much adjustment built into the OE system to compensate. On my old truck I didn't replace the UCAs and the steering always felt twitchier and less stable than on my new truck with aftermarket UCAs that allowed more adjustment of the caster and camber.

Suspension and tires play an outsized role in the performance of a vehicle, so as much as it sucks to drop that kind of coin, I couldn't in good faith recommend skimping on either.

Also, keep in mind that suspension lift alone doesn't help you "fit" bigger tires. Regardless of lift, the wheel well is a fixed size, and provided you don't change the position of the bump stop, you are trying to stuff a bigger tire into the same space. To get full range of motion out of those 285s (depending upon wheel backspacing), the universally accepted truth means you'll need to remove the mud flaps, trim some of the plastic fender flare, beat the pinch weld over, and do a cab mount chop. You'll also have to consider gearing, as you add more rotating mass and more mass to the vehicle in general, the drivetrain will experience more stress.

Best knowledge I can impart on you is to truthfully evaluate your long term needs and make your decisions based on that. Obviously none of us can predict what our future needs might dictate, but thinking about it ahead of time will help prevent a whole lot of do-overs.

 

[sertguy]

This is exactly the info and insight i'm looking for. Keep it coming.

 

[bkg]

A lot of work and expense that will go out the window if you plan to switch to 265s down the line. If I were you, I'd sell the 285s and make that switch sooner than later.
.

Agree with this 100%. if you're plan is to go to smaller tires, stop all suspension research... get new tires... then reboot suspension research.

Wife's 4Runner has the Bilstein kit from ToyTec. Very happy so far.
My xtracab is a 4WU 3-link w/ All-pro rear. Very happy so far.
My Dcab is Donahoe Racing up front with Total Chaos UCA's and Dakar's in the rear with Icon shocks. Also happy.
My F350 has Carli. Not as happy.

 

[tacollie]

Sounds like reservoirs may be overkill. I recently replaced my Icons coilovers with Toytec Boss and an so happy I did it. The truck is much smoother. I am stock weight up front. I was going to get Fox but found a good deal on some Boss coilovers. I still have the extended length Icons with resi in the rear. I have the EL095R leafs in the rear and with my flippac I sit at 24" hub to fender. Loaded with camping gear, dogs and mountain bikes it sags a little but not much. I like them better than the CS047R I had before though the finish on the newer packs is crap.

Honestly figure out how much you really want to spend. You seem like you are on the right track.

 

[DaveInDenver]

FWIW, some data I have collected originally posted at Tacoma World.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/torn-between-leaf-springs-help.507122/page-5#post-15899813

What I know so far:

CS047R
5+2 leafs, 207 mm free camber, 182 lbf/in (main) and 392 lbf/in (overload)

EL095R
4+2 leafs, 210 mm free camber, 149 lbf/in (main) and 482 lbs/in (overload)

EL096R
5+2 leafs, 210 mm free camber, 182 lbf/in (main) and 506 lbf/in (overload)

So appears the EL096R is closer to the CS047R. The EL095R I guess will be a CS047R with the 3rd leaf (right?) removed.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/king-coils-3-14-650-sold.514414/page-3#post-16232724

I have an ARB bull bar (say +90 lbs over stock), XD9000 winch with synthetic line (call it 65 lbs), two PC1400 batteries in place of the original group 27 (say +35 lbs over stock) and bolt-on Mobtown sliders (I dunno, 100 lbs for the pair?).

So call it about 240 lbs over stock on the front axle, 190 lbs hung in front of it and 50 lbs behind (assuming the sliders are about centered between axles). With this I feel the 650# is about right. My springs are compressed to approximately 10.5" (3.5" compression) on the driver's and 10.875" (3.125" compression) on passenger. That represents 2,275 lbs on driver and 2,031 lbs on passenger. Which is about right when you figure the fuel tank and batteries are on that side.

A 700 lb/in spring would change these static numbers by 0.25", but the difference is that it will travel dynamically that same ~7% less on a pound-for-pound basis. At block height of 6.61" my King spring will hold 4,804 lbs and the old 13"/600# Eibach/FOX would hold 4,350 lbs fully compressed. A 700 lb/in, 14" long coil should hold about 5,200 lbs at full compression.

In my use (not high speed desert) it's unusual that either would bind but I feel the extra 500 lbs margin is nice to have and the ride isn't mushy nor rattle fillings loose firm. I do get some body lean on two-lane but I don't feel the need for a sway bar (mine's long gone).

For comparison OME recommends for a bull bar and winch (they assume 200 lbs) to use their x886 spring to achieve 2.75" of lift with a 90000 series shock. That spring is 15.83" tall and 660 lb/in rate. All their other springs are 590 lb/in rate.

 

[phsycle]

“4. The Taco will be used as an overland/exploring rig. Think: BDR's, White rim trail, Baja, forest roads, wash board roads, Imogene and California Pass in Colorado. Once in a blue moon I
end up traversing across some deep ruts or going thru a "baby Rubicon" rocky section that requires the use of the locker, but very seldom.”

Am I the only person who thinks this guy should maybe get an Add a Leaf, maybe some sliders and call it good? Seriously, 2-3” lift, armor, and 33” tires for that?

 

[sertguy]

FWIW, some data I have collected originally posted at Tacoma World.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/torn-between-leaf-springs-help.507122/page-5#post-15899813


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/king-coils-3-14-650-sold.514414/page-3#post-16232724

Good info. Thx.


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[sertguy]

Am I the only person who thinks this guy should maybe get an Add a Leaf, maybe some sliders and call it good? Seriously, 2-3” lift, armor, and 33” tires for that?

Hummm?? Maybe I am going a little overboard???


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[tacollie]

FWIW, some data I have collected originally posted at Tacoma World.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/torn-between-leaf-springs-help.507122/page-5#post-15899813


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/king-coils-3-14-650-sold.514414/page-3#post-16232724

That's greatly information. It explains why I like the EL095R better than the CS047R. Lighter main springs with heavier overloads.

 

[downhill]

Hummm?? Maybe I am going a little overboard???


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That is a question only you can answer. If indeed you occasionally do a "mini rubicon" type trail, then the items discussed are not overkill. If you are willing to turn around when such things present themselves, then you will need less. I try to build for the unexpected and usually drive far below the trucks actual capability. It's actually rare for me to be in four wheel drive. I have 2 Lo capability.

A couple of weeks ago I was out cruising the back trails, and saw a little dotted line on the map that looked too good to pass up. By the time I realized that the trail was going to be a very long and difficult ordeal, I was basically too far in to turn back. I forged ahead and the truck got me through because I had a lot of yet untapped capability.

I try to never knowingly choose a trail above 80% of my vehicle's ability. That leaves me a bit if I miscalculate. Level one for me is 2lo, which is most of what I do. Level two is 4lo. Level three is 4lo +rear locker. Level five is 4lo + front and rear locker. Level six is everything plus the winch cable out.

When I am traveling alone, Level five and six are always in reserve. If there are others who can assist in the event of trouble, I might go farther. I got tired of walking out many years ago.

We all live within some limits because every vehicle or driver has one. What you have to do is define what YOUR limits and needs are. Nobody here can help with that.

 

[Jeepvkk]

This thread is useful for me as well. I've a Tacoma trd offroad on order ( despite my handle ) and will likely increase the tire size to 32” max. I know nothing about suspensions and the plethora of choices is confusing to say the least. Advice on Leaving truck as stock as possible resonates, as does ensuring it's setup to handle worse than you desire to throw at it so that if you end up in hairy stuff you can get out. Is all this possible without sacrificing onroad characteristics? I've no desire for rock crawling but desire to explore the mountains of the west. There is a discussion at tacomaworld on the 2015 TRD Pro suspension that's on sale now, but reviews indicate it's a harsh ride, albeit effective off-road.

That is a question only you can answer. If indeed you occasionally do a "mini rubicon" type trail, then the items discussed are not overkill. If you are willing to turn around when such things present themselves, then you will need less. I try to build for the unexpected and usually drive far below the trucks actual capability. It's actually rare for me to be in four wheel drive. I have 2 Lo capabil`ity.

A couple of weeks ago I was out cruising the back trails, and saw a little dotted line on the map that looked too good to pass up. By the time I realized that the trail was going to be a very long and difficult ordeal, I was basically too far in to turn back. I forged ahead and the truck got me through because I had a lot of yet untapped capability.

I try to never knowingly choose a trail above 80% of my vehicle's ability. That leaves me a bit if I miscalculate. Level one for me is 2lo, which is most of what I do. Level two is 4lo. Level three is 4lo +rear locker. Level five is 4lo + front and rear locker. Level six is everything plus the winch cable out.

When I am traveling alone, Level five and six are always in reserve. If there are others who can assist in the event of trouble, I might go farther. I got tired of walking out many years ago.

We all live within some limits because every vehicle or driver has one. What you have to do is define what YOUR limits and needs are. Nobody here can help with that.