FG fleet mechanic interview

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Have been discussing posting this thread with a few guys for a couple of weeks and thanks to Doug Hackney for providing the question template. I didn’t change the format at all. Just hope I do it justice. If anyone else has any suggestions for improvements please feel free to offer them up.

This is an interview with Shaun Walker who is the head mechanic for Adventure Tours here in Noosa. Their company runs a fleet of FG’s doing day tours from the Sunshine Coast to Fraser Island. I also plan interview a couple of the other fleet mechanics as our paths cross. Hopefully the next interview will be with a mechanic from Cairns who also runs a fleet of FG’s that run constantly up Cape York in the dry season. The challenges and problems these guys experience are very, very different from one another and I’m sure it will be good to see a combined perspective. Also working only on the one type of vehicle, they aquire a specific insight into FG’s that most mechanics working in a dealership or general workshop cannot.

BTW I hope I don’t send alarm bells ringing with any FG owners out there when reading about the problems these guys have. I must stress that these FG’s in a commercial tour bus role on the beach or the in the outback, will be subject to more abuse in a few months than most privately owned FG’s will see in their entire service life. These buses in particular are driven on the beach every day from sun up to sun down and then they get washed down with a fire hose and do it all again in the morning. All the minor maintenance is done at night. Basically they never get a chance to dry out. Always wet. The only thing that changes is the salinity.

I’ll give these guys a plug too, so if anyone comes over here to Aus, Fraser Island is a must see and also I’ll thank Shaun for his time on behalf of ExPo. This is their site. http://www.fraserislandadventuretours.com.au/ Actually they’ve been mentioned recently in the threads if you’re searching, regarding the wheel/tyre setup up they use.

Shaun Walker

Age: 36

Born/raised in: Lived most of my life on the Sunshine Coast

Traing/education/certifications: I’m a Qualified Motor Mechanic. Began my apprenticeship with the Noosa Shire Council at the age of 16.

How did you get interested in vehicles/trucks/ etc? At the council I worked on just about everything. Small engines, tractors, trucks, loaders, forklift, mowers. You name it.

Who taught you your initial mechanic skills? Dad was a mechanic too. He started a workshop in Gympie in the ‘50s.

What was the first thing you ever took apart? Did you get it back together? Were there any parts left over? A Yamaha DT 125. Ah yes and no.

Years experience as a mechanic? 16 years as a qualified mechanic but played around a lot as a kid too.

Years experience with offroad / expedition vehicles? 9 years with Adventure Tours

Years experience with FG’s? That’s all I’ve worked on for the whole time here.

Best attributes of an FG? They are bulletproof as a beach vehicle. We just can’t kill ‘em. Sure they have some inherent problems but we try and tackle them as soon as we buy them so they don’t give us any major headaches later on.

Worst attributes of an FG? The thickness of the chassis. It causes corrosion problems and then we start to see stress fractures and cracks around the suspension points.

Common failure points/components of FG chassis in long-term off-road/expedition/excursion use? Really the chassis is the ONLY thing we have to complain about.

Common/typical modifications made to mitigate failure points/improver reliability/improve capability of FG chassis in off-road/ expedition/excursion use? Well, like I said it’s all about strengthening the chassis. We replace the rear spring hangers with cast ones from the 2wd tippers. You know how the crossmembers are a 3 piece arrangement? Well we plate the cutouts at the end and weld it all together so that it becomes 1 piece. So far so good. No more cracking. Also we pull the rear shock mount tube out and weld a piece of steam pipe inside it. Also we plate above the very front suspension mounting bracket. Since we’ve been doing that we’ve had hardly any dramas with them.

Setup/preparation tips for best performance in sand? Going to single Michelins for sure. We run a spacer to support the single rims on the rear too. Singles down rate the truck from 4.3 to 3.4 ton over the rear axle but that’s OK for us. Obviously the front axle loading doesn’t change. The other thing for sand is your corrosion protection. We’ve tried just about everything over the years, but what works for us is just a brew of underbody spray, x-trol and rustproofing fluid sprayed on every 3 months. We did try some acrylic recently which did the job well but it was too hard to work around so we just went back to the old method.

Driving tips for best performance in sand ? We run 65PSI in the tyres but if the beach is really bad we’ll send one bus up with 40PSI and the others will follow his compacted tracks through the soft stuff. That way when they get back on the bitumen you only have to pump up the tyres on one bus instead of 3, 4 or 5. So it saves a lot of time. Another tip for sand driving, in really soft stuff and if you’re by yourself is to run forward and compact the track, then back up before you go down, then go forward again compacting a little further each time till you get through.


Setup/preparation tips for long expeditions/excursions in remote areas (where no support/help/etc. is available) ? Do what we do and keep it simple.

Spare parts list for long expeditions/excursions in remote areas (where no support/help/etc. is available? Wow. OK. All the usual culprits. Belts, filters, enough oil for a change and not just the engine either. Definitely take some diff pinion seals. They are the same as the front transfer case seal too. The rear transfer case seal is usually safe cause it’s protected well by the handbrake drum. The front axle seals should be OK too as long as the boots are both good. Super glue is handy for fixing leaks in the radiator tanks. I’d take a couple of short u-bolts to wrap a spring with if you break one. That is a good “bush fix” that’ll get you home. Take about 3 metres of assorted hoses. Say 3/16”, 1/4” for things like oil return lines. You can slide it over a cracked pipe if you have to and some 5/16” and 3/8” hose to cover you for fuel lines. Also take some radiator “stopleak” and some power steering “stopleak” and don’t forget some terminals and fuses.


Tools list for long expeditions/excursions in remote areas (where no support/help/etc. is available)? A 3/8” and a ½ “ inch socket set up to 27mm for your drain plugs. I wouldn’t bother with a ¾” set but make sure your factory wheel socket is good. You need a special tube spanner for the axle nut. I just made one from some exhaust pipe and a couple of bolts. Easy. I dunno. Hose cutters. A hacksaw. Oh yeah. A big hammer. Haha.

Minimum mechanical skills/ abilities recommended for long expeditions / excursions in remote areas (where no support / help / etc is available) ? As long as the vehicle is prepped and well maintained, basic mechanical knowledge and common sense should get you out of trouble. I would think that being able to weld would be important if your body mounting isn’t flexible enough. That could be a problem, so yeah, I suppose being able to weld would be handy. Welding in the bush could be a problem. Hmm.

Funniest story related to an FG? We had a really bad vibration / noise on one truck for a good 100,000kms. All the drivers kept complaining about it. A couple of us had a look. Just couldn’t trace it. Finally we found a Stanley Knife (box cutter) that had slid down between the injector pump and the engine block.

Most unusual repair/fix related to FG expedition/ excursion vehicles? I would think that most of the repairs we consider normal here would be considered unusual but I’d have to say doing the brakes at 50,000 kms. We normally get more than 80,000kms out of them.

Biggest lessons learned from a career maintaining FG expedition/ excursion vehicles? There is always something to do. Expect the unexpected. When you’ve got 6 or 7 of them they go out in sympathy with one another. But most importantly constant maintenance. There is always something to do. The original head mechanic, old Ronnie once left them for a month and then it took him 3 months to catch up.

Ideal medium duty 4x4 truck chassis for expedition/ excursion use. Given that you have a clean drawing board and not necessarily based on an existing truck? For us the FG’s are pretty close to perfect. Great diffs, transfer case, gearbox and they are simple. Being simple, that’s the most important thing. Electronics fail on the beach. An extra 40 or 50 horsepower would be better too. So my pick would be an ’04 model with the 4.2 litre, 637 motor with the mechanical pump. Then add an aftermarket turbo and fit the factory intercooler from a 3.9T, which should bolt straight in.

That’s it. I interviewed Shaun while he was washing down the trucks tonight. Unbelievable. No fancy rotor brushes or soap/wash guns. He was dribbling Dishwashing liquid straight from the squeeze bottle into the stream of the hose for the soap down. So cool. Full credit to him for the workshop he runs and the efficiency of the operation that has to cope with these tough conditions. Have tried to replicate everything Shaun said as accurately as possible but if you have any queries I will try to answer but I may not be able to answer on his behalf. The pics were only taken with my phone. Sorry for the quality.
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whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Kerry

Thanks Kerry, I knew you would appreciate it.

Also I should have given us at Allterrainwarriors a plug too, cause we build the bodies for them but I guessed that most of you figured that out. The one in the pic that Shaun is hosing down is on it's third chassis, so the body has done about a 1,000,000 kilometres. It will get sold on the same truck soon. Probably end up as a camper. They usually sell off the trucks at between 300,000kms and 350,000kms

Regards John.
 

dhackney

Expedition Leader
John,

Thank you so much for conducting and posting this interview. Please pass along my thanks to Shaun for sharing his experiences.

You all have such a wealth of knowledge down there with the FG and we all greatly appreciate your efforts in sharing some of it with us.

Now all I have to do is decide if it is worth disassembling our entire rig so I can weld in those chassis gussets... :)

All joking aside, I will do a close inspection of those areas on our truck. While we (so far) have not had the salt exposure, our weight will probably be exerting similar failure stresses on those chassis points.

Doug
 

Mickldo

Adventurer
Good thread John.

I can second most of that. I used to work as a mechanic for a 4x4 Hire company in Hervey Bay for Fraser Island. I didn't work on FG's but I did work on Land Rovers, Suzukis, Kia Sportages, Toyota Hiluxes and Land Cruisers.

Everything he said about corrosion, maintenance and modifications is true. I used to do lots of vehicle recoveries over on Fraser Island after all the backpackers wreck the hire 4x4s and I used to see the Fraser Island Adventure Tours FG's and all of the other companies too going up and down the beach. Seeing them other there and talking to others in the trade I can vouch at how good the FG's are on the sand over there. When other mere mortals are picking their way along the beach, trying to find the easiest path among the washaways, sand drifts, etc the FG's just motor along at the speed limit soaking it all up with their big tyres and suspension.
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Doug

Please pass along my thanks to Shaun for sharing his experiences.

Doug. Done already. Were you happy with the questions and were the type of responses what you had hoped for? I suppose what I'm asking is do you want to make any changes to the question template for next time? Journalism is not really my forte so let me know.

So glad you liked it. Your truck doesn't have the 4.5mm chassis does it? Also I've fabricated new crossmembers before out of 3mm mild steel before which worked well instead of repairing them if they are to bad. Everything is easy when there's no body on the chassis though.

Good to catch up. John.
BTW We decided at work today that all of us here are going to head Peru to sell rattle guns instead of building buses and campers.
 

engineer

Adventurer
He missed the transfer case selector cables rubbing on the front cross member, maybe without the corrugations they aren't an issue.......
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Engineer

Hi I was hoping you chime in. Didn't you drive for these guys? Or was that the other Adventure Tours?

This is really different driving to what you do now. No corrugations but lots of sharp jarring from hitting washouts at speed and they are always racing the tides so they push 'em hard. Also they would get alot more maintenance cause remember they come back to a workshop every night. This is why I said that it will be good to get a different perspective from the mechanics that are doing Cape York /Arnhem Land vehicles or some of the Sydney companies that we deal with that run extended outback trips. They are going to face a whole different set of problems.

Selector cables are not an issue for them. We pretty conscious of how they are run when we do the conversions too.

Thanks Chip. A wow from the guru is somehow worth double. That was the thread I mentioned to you in the email a few weeks back. See ya
 
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dhackney

Expedition Leader
whatcharterboat said:
Doug. Done already. Were you happy with the questions and were the type of responses what you had hoped for? I suppose what I'm asking is do you want to make any changes to the question template for next time? Journalism is not really my forte so let me know.

So glad you liked it. Your truck doesn't have the 4.5mm chassis does it? Also I've fabricated new crossmembers before out of 3mm mild steel before which worked well instead of repairing them if they are to bad. Everything is easy when there's no body on the chassis though.

Good to catch up. John.
BTW We decided at work today that all of us here are going to head Peru to sell rattle guns instead of building buses and campers.

John,

I can't think of anything to add at this point. Perhaps someone else here can suggest some additional data points it would be good to capture.

The respones were fantastic. This is incredibly valuable information.

Here's some info on the frame on our FG:

Mitsu FG Frame Competitive Comparison
....................Mitsu
Width............. 29.5 inches
Yield Strength 44000 psi
Section Mod. ....6.95 inches
RBM ................305800
Frame RBM is the Resistance Bending Moment of the frame

data from: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/index-specs.htm

I'll have to crawl under there with a micrometer to measure it to see if it's a 4.5mm frame or not. I know it's a LOT thinner than the Mercedes 4x4 chassis we've seen down here. :)

I don't think we'll have any corrosion issues unless we go to the Solar (world's biggest salt flat) in Bolivia next year during the rainy season or decide to camp on the beach for a couple of months.

If we have frame or cross member problems I expect it will be at the suspension attachment points. I didn't know enough to reinforce those areas when we built it. I'll take a close look at those points when I do my next under-truck inspection.

We probably weigh as much as 2 or 3 of the FG beach busses. ;)

Doug
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Doug

Hi Doug

I would think that one of the Adventure Tours FG's fully loaded would probably run at something like 5000kg. Just a guess. That would be with over 1.5 ton of Euro backpackers sitting high on seats and the super large AC unit on the roof.
So the CoG ends up being much higher than on our campers. Maybe thats why they are under the extra stress.

That's one of the reasons we don't use a 3 point pivot system and run with our own flexible mounting system. It ends up so much lower. Our top of floor height is only about 1.5" above the transfer case to keep the CoG as low as possible. Also it doesn't allow the weight to shift from side to side which also increases the stress on the chassis.

Yeah sure check these points but don't panic. I'm sure it will all be OK. Especially without the corrosion.

or decide to camp on the beach for a couple of months.
Sounds like a plan for your Oz leg.

One of the factors is that moisture sits in between the crossmember plates, chassis and the spring hangers so they corrode right at the point of stress. Some of the guys try sealing around any plates, brackets etc, with urethane sealer in an attempt to keep the moisture out. When you pull brackets off on a Bitsamissing FG they have little or no paint under them so if we're doing a suspension upgrade (where we move the crossmembers and spring hangers) I
always give everything a good coat of primer and chassis black before assembly. Just an extra safegaurd.

They must paint the chassis in Japan after they are assembled.
Regards John
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Doug

Should have made it clear that they run basically a standard suspension setup albeit a custom rear spring pack in the standard hanger locations and with standard shock absorbers. Note he said that they use cast iron hangers from the FG 2wd tippers. These are obviously solid and stand up better in these conditions. While a full suspension upgrade would be much better for the truck (and the passengers’ butts), the cost doesn’t warrant it due to the short length of time they keep them.

All these guys run different setups however Shaun’s boss runs a very tight ship and will do whatever works best economically. That’s why they are so successful and also they’ve bought 26 FG’s from us so far and I’m sure they have worked it to the last $.01 by now.

Take care ,
John
 

engineer

Adventurer
whatcharterboat said:
Hi I was hoping you chime in. Didn't you drive for these guys? Or was that the other Adventure Tours?

This is really different driving to what you do now. No corrugations but lots of sharp jarring from hitting washouts at speed and they are always racing the tides so they push 'em hard. Also they would get alot more maintenance cause remember they come back to a workshop every night. This is why I said that it will be good to get a different perspective from the mechanics that are doing Cape York /Arnhem Land vehicles or some of the Sydney companies that we deal with that run extended outback trips. They are going to face a whole different set of problems.

Selector cables are not an issue. We pretty conscious of how they are run when we do the conversions too.


Thanks Chip. A wow from the guru is somehow worth double. That was the thread I mentioned to you in the email a few weeks back. See ya

After 3 seasons (60k) they are worn through. Stan the man who takes care of all things warranty in Oz says that it is only a problem for Cape York operators, therefore sympathises with our problem, but says it is OUR problem...... typical Daimler Chrysler! Chassis cracks at rear crossmember, Fancy selling a 6 ton truck with a 4.5mm chassis.... what happened to the 6mm? Rear crossmember support brackets are like waffles.
Drivers seat foam is rubbish, normally changed within 6-12 months of purchase.
We have never had issues wih diff housings cracking (unlike isuzu).
They are the best of a bad bunch, they are reasonably priced, with the exception of the cables, excellent on warranty issues, have good parts availability and are good on price (we only use genuine, with the exeption of wheel bearings, we only use ******, only KOYO make the special on the steer. The Gates Fleetrunner is the only belt I will buy, Mobil Oil, and genuine filters.
 

engineer

Adventurer
Ran one of the Canters over the pit today, and We found the front crossmember under the engine mounts has cracked!! Have to get the fabrication gear out tomorrow!!!:Mechanic:
 

whatcharterboat

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Engineer

Ran one of the Canters over the pit today, and We found the front crossmember under the engine mounts has cracked!!

At least that's one of the cross members that's bolted in and not riveted. So I suppose you'll be able to do it on the bench easy enough. Anyway, I reckon that's a small price to pay for the country you normally get to travel in.

Have to get the fabrication gear out tomorrow!!!

Let me guess. You are the fabricator, driver, host, cook, medic, tent erector, mechanic and chief bottle washer. And I bet there is about another 10 other titles in you job description too. Lol.
 

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