2006 LR3 Oil Question

454

Exploder
Anything API SL or higher, e.g SM or SN will be fine.

Example: https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/5DEAD6CF2F00966880258034005B0DB0/$File/BPXE-AAXEC9.pdf This stuff is $19/5 qts at Wally World.
 

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LR Max

Local Oaf
Castrol Edge full synthetic is great. Go with that. Check Wal-Mart, local auto parts stores for deals. Also check Amazon. Keep in mind, you will need 8-9 quarts (I forget). I just get two jugs.

Also after changing the oil, check the oil level. Then after a short drive, check it again! I know this sounds stupid, but when the engine runs low on oil for 10 hours or so, its a bad time. An easy fix to prevent a significant problem.
 
Having some work done (front passenger bearing, transmission flush, oil change) by a very reputable LR mechanic and he said do not need to use synthetic. The truck does not call for it and it should not be used.
 

Abran

Observer
It’s a modern motor and the seals work well with synthetic. A lot of shops don’t use a quality synthetic oil because of the sticker shock the customers have. We charge in the $150 range for an oil change with Royal Purple full synthetic oil and RP filter. When people drive by their local lube and tune and see $19.95 oil change ads, they freak on $150.

Oil preference is a hot topic. I suggest you fill with what your mechanics recommends then at the oil change interval send a sample to Blackstone labs for analysis. Then fill with a high quality synthetic and when it’s ready send for analysis.

Any other discussion on the topic without scientific analysis is just opinion without any real data/merit. It’s your vehicle and you should take full responsibility for the oil you use. In the end your mechanic won’t be paying for a new motor, in fact he will be making money off the deal.
 

ColoDisco

Explorer
I switched to synthetic, and since have noticed some of my seals are now seeping oil. Including my valve covers which I just did a year ago with factory replacement seals. I am going back to conventional.
 

Abran

Observer
we put synthetic in every LR3 that comes through our shop. I have 3 LR3s in my household and none of them leak.
 
I switched to synthetic, and since have noticed some of my seals are now seeping oil. Including my valve covers which I just did a year ago with factory replacement seals. I am going back to conventional.

This is what my mechanic said would happen with mine (again 2006) because LR did not start using synthetic for that year. I also have to perform oil changes every 3K.
 

zelatore

Explorer
Having some work done (front passenger bearing, transmission flush, oil change) by a very reputable LR mechanic and he said do not need to use synthetic. The truck does not call for it and it should not be used.

I wouldn't say it 'should not be used', so much as it's not necessary. The primary benefit of synthetics is extended change intervals. To truly know how long you can go on any given oil, doing an oil anyalisys (places like Blackstone mentioned above) is the only way to get real data.

Myself I don't run synthetics as I don't put that many miles on my Rovers these days and I just do 5000 mile changes. Nice even number that makes it easy to know when to change without doing any math.
 

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