Teardrop Dilemma

[46flattie]

So a few updates.....quick shot of the rear bumper....

Rear shackles.....and weld on jack mounts for leveling


Was going to fab my fenders from scratch, but Mccool's idea was just too easy, $26 each for fenders, a couple of cuts to the back of the flange "knee", spread from 110 degrees to 120 degrees, re-weld and viola! a fender that will fit a 33. Fender mounting is designed, hope fab up this coming weekend. Plan to skirt in front and behind the fender with some 2x1 tubing for bash guards doubling as fender mounts and will trim off the excess fender falling below.

 

[Jmanscotch]

Looking real good sir! Love that bumper, those are some clean tail light cutouts and hitch install.

If I can offer a tip on the fenders; space them rearwards a bit, versus centering them over the wheel.

The leaf spring suspension travel will allow the tire to travel upwards and rearwards as it compresses, but it will never move forward, so increasing clearance on the rear of the tire is more ideal than visually symmetric clearance in front and rear of the tire. If you ever run a slightly larger tire, weight down the trailer or hit a good bump, you'll possibly need that extra little clearance on the rear of the fender.

Keep it up, I like the touches going into this build. A full frame swap is no small task, but it was definitely lend a hand to durability when you're dragging it behind that sweet Scrambler.

Jake

 

[46flattie]

Thanks Jake! The frame swap is a pretty good undertaking, but I really give the guys a lot of credit that build the cabin from scratch too! My project has gone very smoothly so far...I spent a fair amount of time researching, planning and designing before the first cut was made.

And thanks for the fender mounting tip...I was contemplating that as well.

 

[azscotts]

Looking sharp!

 

[46flattie]

Thanks azscotts!

Finally made some time to work on fender supports/bash guards...one side roughed-in using 2x1.5 - 0.120 wall tube. Was planning to use something a little smaller like 2x1, but I had it left over from another project. The fender is "squeezed" slightly to fit into the supports, the rear support is going to move rearward about 1/2" to allow a little more clearance and the fender will lay in normally. Still have a lot of finishing to do...

Anybody have opinions on whether to skirt the inside of the fender? I am undecided, but I suppose it would help contain road spray vs. trying to seal the inside lip to the cabin...

 

[Jmanscotch]

I support the skirting of the fender.

With the way I designed mine, it was a big help to keep dirt and rocks from spraying the side of the camper, since my fenders sit 1.5" off of the camper, so there was a gap.

My thinking was also; should a tire ever shred while towing, the skirt would help keep the shredded tire from ripping into my soft aluminum sides and causing some pretty nasty damage. Same concept with if a branch, rock, etc were to get kicked up in there and jam. It's cheap protection for the skin of the camper in one of it's most likely spots to get damage.

 

[46flattie]

I've got some 16ga steel laying around....or I thought about skirting the fenders with some kind of composite too.

 

[tatanka48]

if you make the diagonal/fender braces from larger sq tubing you could install those 3/4" red n yellow clearance dot lights in them

i like being able to see my width in the dark

T

 

[46flattie]

Excellent idea! The tubing I am using is 2x 1-1/2...so it would work great. Fortunately, they are not permanently welded on yet, so I can easily add the holes on the drill press. Thanks!

 

[46flattie]

Finished up the fender supports...would like to have squared them off a little more at the fender, but was tight for room on the rear side of the fender so I tried to break the top edge and contour to the fender a little. Holes are for led marker lights as suggested by tatanka48.

I think round fenders would have looked a little better, but the wife wanted the Jeep style for the flat surface to set items on...valid request.

Not able to upload photos for some reason...will try again soon

 

[46flattie]

Got 'em loaded....

Since one picture shows the jack for leveling/rear stabilizer, I thought I'd let you all know what I ran into to hopefully prevent a similiar issue for the next guy...

Not all weld-on mount style jacks are created equal....bought a couple individual weld on mounts locally so I can move the jack around as needed. Unfortunately, my local supplier did not have the style jack I needed (sidewinder vs. top wind) and to order one they were way out of line. (Normally, I try to shop local and their "in-stock prices are fair, but special order....was another thing.) So I bought a Reese/Fulton sidewinder on-line. The Reese/Fulton jack requires the same OD mount tube (thankfully), but uses a 5/8" pin vs. 1/2" pin (easy to overcome with a drill bit). However, in addition, the length of the Reese/Fulton mounting tube is about 1/4" longer and required me to trim the receiver tube on the jack to make the pin hole line up. Not a huge deal, but something to watch out for. I should add that I did not weld the mount on backwards...

 

[46flattie]

I had a forum member ask some specifics about my heights using the CJ-7 springs, etc. So I thought maybe I would post my answer here too for anyone else it may help:

I used a pair of used 1980 CJ-7 rear springs I had laying around...condition seems OK, un-weighted on the floor they both had equal arch, etc. I have new bushings for the shackle end, but not yet installed. I also used factory CJ-7 spring hangers. I built the 3500# axle and used home-built spring perches. My perch height is 3/4" off the OD of the axle tube and mounted spring under axle. The title weight of the teardrop before I started was 920 lbs, but I never weighed to confirm. My frame is probably over built...I used 3x2 w/3/16 wall. for the extra 1.69#/ft. over 11 ga. I figured what's 20 or 30#'s. With that said here's how it sits currently:

4-1/8" - 4-1/4" from top of axle tube to bottom of frame
Spring shackles are 4-1/2" CL to CL bolt spacing

With 10.50x33-15 tires frame height off the floor (to bottom of frame) is in the 20-3/4" - 21" range (I have 2 different brand tires on right now...one used/one basically new just to roll around on, plan to put on 2 of the same good used tires when done....keeping budget as tight as I can and still do it right!)

Good luck with your project. I'm getting close to painting!

 

[46flattie]

Made an adjustable land leg today with a swivel caster from the original tongue jack...we'll see if I got it right when in use (height adjustment that is...)

 

[ITTOG]

Great job. I too love the bumper with integrated tail lights.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[46flattie]

ITTOG - thanks for the compliment!