converting enclosed trailer feasible?

SgtVeXX

New member
So my wife wants something enclosed and not sleep in a RTT or ground tent. This got me to looking at teardrops but at $8-10k for off-road they are a bit pricey. Would there be any issues or has anyone tried modifying a standard 5x8 enclosed trailer for off-road use? Obviously putting some suspension on, 3500lb axle, and probably adding structural frame support...etc. Would this be a feasible option? Or would I end up spending so mush money that I should have just purchased an off-road teardrop?

example:
https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/trb/d/5x8-enclosed-trailer-for-sale/6524465647.html
 

ottsville

Observer
There's a bunch of threads on this forum about converting an enclosed trailer, some super swanky to others that are just basic. It's definitely feasible and not a bad way to go - you could just make a bed and some simple storage and add more stuff as you determine your needs/wants.
 

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Tnttt.com has a specific section on cargo trailer conversions (ctc). Plenty of ideas out there.

Great forum for some teardrop design tips, there is the CTC section, but lots of those folks are making RVs out of 7x12's or something. Most the information I'm grabbing from there is in other subforums outside the CTC, but still a great resource.
 

SgtVeXX

New member
Great info guys, definitely a lot of inspiration here and it gives me a lot more confidence in what I want to do. I REALLY don't want to get rid of my M416 but it's not going to be big enough to do a "sleep-in" build for 3ppl and a dog. Wife insists on not climbing a ladder and wants something insulated to camp year round comfortably (she says she's not getting any younger). NOW the tells me. So I need to abandon my M416 build and I'll have to sell it to fund the start of an enclosed trailer.

So after the ~$2k for the base trailer, how much am I looking at to get good suspension (springs and shocks or torsion) and beefing up the main frame to accept "lock n roll" and fell comfortable enough that it'll hold up to the rigors of off-road use? I don't know how to weld so this is my biggest concern. Once I'm beyond that I am very comfortable with my carpentry skills to take it from there and have welders add extra bits and pieces as I go.
 

CampStewart

Observer
If you could see what is hidden out of sight on cheap enclosed trailers you would puke. Do a lot of research on brands and models within the brand before buying.
 

SgtVeXX

New member
Any baseline on brands that may be generally better than others, or brands to outright avoid? I would be able to see the frame easily, but seeing into the walls will likely not be an option. Don't expect people will let me disassemble their trailer to look inside the walls.
 

CampStewart

Observer
I would first of all compare specifications, the gauge of materials used (smaller gauge is better) the distance on center of floor stringers and wall supports, they type of roof, (curved is better), the gvw, the max gvw, the thickness of interior wall materials, the ceiling material, the overall weight compared to other trailers of the same size, and the warranty. I would then web search that brand and model of trailer for reviews and comments. Almost every brand has several model lines that are built to price points. I would never recommend one brand as their baseline or some other models may be junk. You must research brand and model. They also change from year to year so add in that factor.
I bought a base model trailer with a flat roof used from a major manufacturer and it is nothing but cobbled together junk. I bought another trailer used from another manufacturer and it is a upper range model and it is twice the trailer as the cheap one. For off road abuse and cutting in windows and such you may find that buying a top of the line trailer may cost less overall than beefing up a cheaper one. I have never ordered a new trailer but a friend has and there were a lot of options available that were not listed in the brochure.
 

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Great info guys, definitely a lot of inspiration here and it gives me a lot more confidence in what I want to do. I REALLY don't want to get rid of my M416 but it's not going to be big enough to do a "sleep-in" build for 3ppl and a dog. Wife insists on not climbing a ladder and wants something insulated to camp year round comfortably (she says she's not getting any younger). NOW the tells me. So I need to abandon my M416 build and I'll have to sell it to fund the start of an enclosed trailer.

So after the ~$2k for the base trailer, how much am I looking at to get good suspension (springs and shocks or torsion) and beefing up the main frame to accept "lock n roll" and fell comfortable enough that it'll hold up to the rigors of off-road use? I don't know how to weld so this is my biggest concern. Once I'm beyond that I am very comfortable with my carpentry skills to take it from there and have welders add extra bits and pieces as I go.

Exactly why we're going this route. Realistically, depending on what "extras" you want outside of a comfortable, insulated sleeping space, galley, decent suspension and a LNR or similar coupler (no electric, water, or anything) you're going to be around $3,500-$5,000. Lower end if you plan well, design simple and save some cost on materials/features. Higher end, or more, if you buy a new trailer as a starting point, make mistakes, want everything new, want some more luxurious features and have someone do some welding, etc.

We are PLANING to come in under $6,500 and have everything we want. Windows, roof vent, 12 V DC throughout cabin, batteries, reinforced frame, extended tongue, some storage solutions, leveling jacks, spare water/fuel, propane, etc.

If you could see what is hidden out of sight on cheap enclosed trailers you would puke. Do a lot of research on brands and models within the brand before buying.

Truth. In my previously linked build thread, I covered some of the cheap ways they make a 5x8 a $2,000 trailer instead of $3,500 trailers. Curved two piece roofs, multiple piece sides, some poor welds, piss poor wiring (both wire quality and installation practices/techniques), poor finish on sealants, etc.

That said, the cheap trailer was still the right call for us. Some things it saved us was money spent on things we didn't need. We didn't need upgraded 15" wheels (changed them anyways), we didn't need all their silly small vents (we're adding our own that work better for a camper, not a cargo trailer, instead), we didn't need higher quality suspension (changing it anyway) and we didn't mind the poor wiring and less idea metal choices (Z vertical wall supports vs square tubing, as an example) as it's something we'll modify greatly anyway.

One thing I looked for was a boxed main frame and a good Dexter axle, which the Patriot 5x8 had. So of the $1,500 saved, $40 will go to rewiring it (which we'd do anyway to fit out new design needs) and about $300 to beef up the frame (which we would do anyways due to off road needs). So we still saved over a grand. We don't see the issue with the multi-piece sides or curved, two piece, roof. We'll keep the $1,000 and address those as maintenance items. If we were building a $20,000 fully decked out custom job, it might be of more concern for longevity, but as a budget friendly sleeping quarters to camp in, that'll still serve it's use for many, many trouble free years... the extra cost wasn't justified in our case.

Adjust your approach according to your needs, skill levels and budget.
 
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SgtVeXX

New member
Looked at a bunch of trailers today and was unimpressed to say the least. Cross members were either the thinnest "C" channel I've ever seen produced, or the same thickness "Z" brace stuff, and a couple that was just thin angle iron. Definitely a rude awakening from being used to my M416 frame. Significant reinforcing would have to be done with any of the trailers I've seen. I do want this trailer to last...I'm definately going to have to weigh some options, thought it'd be a little easier. I do have one dealer looking into off-road enclosed options with his two manufacturers so we'll see what he comes back with and as always I'll be keeping my eye on the classifieds. Maybe there are some older ones out there that were built from more sturdy materials that wouldn't require as much modifications.
 

Jmanscotch

is wandering
Yeah they just don't over build them these days. I searched for used for that exact reason, checked out a few (even back to some 1980s cargo trailers) and didn't find anything that impressed me much. I did find some with 1" square tube vertical wall supports, but that was the main improvement. None I found had boxed cross supports. Some older had 1/8" angle iron cross supports.

That said, don't forget to be realistic in what you need the cargo trailer to be built for. The M416 is WAY over built...for a reason, yes. If you start building a cargo trailer, that won't see the abuse nor service life a M416 was built to withstand, and yet compare the stoutness between the two, you'll be disappointed no matter what you do with it. For what it's worth, I looked at some brand new "off road" edition cargo trailers locally and they were nothing more than a options package. Bigger wheels, windows, ladder rack, etc. No frame/tongue improvements.

If your planning to literally drag it over rocks, off stepped ledges and through truly abusive terrain, then maybe the cargo trailer isn't the right build (unless you had the fab skills). If it's going to see washboard roads, some uneven terrain and some general medium abuse and flex, then realistically a few boxed cross supports to limit twisting and a reinforced tongue setup should give you a plenty capable setup.

A good example is, look at the frames big manufacturers of off road tear drops (NOT just the frames of off road box trailers built for carrying RTTs). That should give you a good goal for what's good enough to get the job done.
 

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