2uz-fe valve train noise

Retired Tanker

Explorer
I’ve recently noticed that I’m getting a lot more valve noise. It’s especially noticeable when I’m in a drive through where I’m right next to a wall.

It’s coming from under the valve covers on both banks, and thankfully not from the oil pan.

If this was my 95 Formula, I’d pull the intake and plop in some new lifters. But I’m a) not sure if this requires immediate attention, b) not sure if this is foretelling of other mechanical issues, and c) how to evaluate the options available.

Engine has 250k on it, has been well maintained and is on its 3rd timing belt/ water pump. I’m keeping the Sequoia.

Option 1 is do nothing and wait for another indicator (rod tapping) to make a decision.

Option 2 is restoring the heads. I’ve rebuilt a number of engines, so pulling the heads and taking them apart doesn’t scare me.

Option 3 is to start looking for another engine and swap it before something catastrophic happens.

What am I missing?


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Kpack

Adventurer
Are you sure it's not an exhaust leak around the manifolds? Pretty common on these engines. Mine had the ticking, never went away even if the engine was warm. New manifolds and gaskets solved the issue for me.
 
You also need to crawl under with a flashlight and look up at the steering joint firewall interface. Thought I had a leaky manifold, the $15 rubber boot was toast. Of course I had to get headers installed before I figured that out...
 

JDsJeep

New member
You also need to crawl under with a flashlight and look up at the steering joint firewall interface. Thought I had a leaky manifold, the $15 rubber boot was toast. Of course I had to get headers installed before I figured that out...

This! I would start with this quick fix first. It's likely just a worn seal flapping when air comes through the engine bay into the cabin.
 

Retired Tanker

Explorer
It could simply need the valves re-shimmed. It's uncommon for the 2UZ to need this, but it's in the maintenance schedule (audible inspection for valvetrain noise every 60k, I believe).

Edit: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...tundra-valve-clearance-inspection-adjustment/

This is the one that confuses me. There are lots of "Internet Gurus" who say that the clearances would tighten up as the valves and seats are worn, which would result in poor performance as the valves would start leaking at some point. I understand the concept, but I've got a hard time believing that the valves/seats would wear at a faster rate than the cam lobes and tappet buckets, even though the moving parts are lubricated.

Either way, I'll pull the valve covers off and check the clearances. If they're worn out of spec, then I'll probable just put up with the noise until it's time to change the timing belt again, about 30K miles down the road.

I've replaced shims before on an old Kawasaki Z1, but the shims were on top of the buckets, not under them. But I am familiar with the concept of measuring and recording the lash, measuring the existing shim, and then figuring our what the new shim should be. It's a little work, but it's worth the effort.
 

Retired Tanker

Explorer
You also need to crawl under with a flashlight and look up at the steering joint firewall interface. Thought I had a leaky manifold, the $15 rubber boot was toast. Of course I had to get headers installed before I figured that out...

This! I would start with this quick fix first. It's likely just a worn seal flapping when air comes through the engine bay into the cabin.

Sorry. But you missed the part where I said it was coming from under the valve covers. With the hood open and me out of the cabin. From both banks. I’m glad y’all were able to trace a noise to the steering shaft boot in your case.


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Actually I didn’t miss that, your first post mentions nothing about an open hood and standing outside, only drive throughs and more noise.

Did you check your steering shaft boot yet? You might be surprised. These engines have a lot of valve noise (I should know, bought new in 04 and have 140k now). Just tying to help you eliminate the cheap easy fixes before you start pulling valve covers...
 
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