FJ60 E-ROD Swap - SRMINT - Stoffregen Motorsports

One of the great questions in life - is more always better? More spaghetti? Maybe not. More money? Most of the time, yes. More puppy dogs and sun-shiny days? Always. More horsepower? Hmmmmm, good question.

In the case of the venerable Toyota Land Cruiser, which is built Ford tough, ready to take anything you can throw at it with grace and style, more HP is not a bad idea. Let's do the numbers. A stock FJ60 weighs about 2.5 tons, with an engine that puts out about 130hp, and gets only about 11 miles per gallon. Sure it will run forever, but the lack of power closes a lot of doors while it's small fuel tank and poor mileage keep it on a short leash.

Solution: a modern V8.

We've been over the pros and cons enough times already, but for those skeptics out there, let me explain that a modern GM V8 has anywhere from 285 to 420 HP and is capable of 20+ MPG. More than enough to propel this package with ease.

When I first spoke to this FJ60's owner, we were discussing diesel options and nothing seemed to make sense. There were about three options. In classic little red riding hood style, one was too big, one was too soft and one was just right, but elusive and expensive. That's about the time I started lobbying for a V8. At first he was not sold. With visions of chrome zoomies poking through the fenders and enough noise to get him kicked out of his HOA, I had a bit of a challenge to bring him around to the idea. Eventually he was sold and the search for the perfect V8 began.

Initially, we chose a truck based 5.3L Vortec LS which fits just right and is available new or used from just about anyone and for a relatively low price. But when we started discussing the emissions compliance, the choice was made and a new engine was ordered up. GM Performance Parts offers many new crate engines, any of which can be made emissions legal, but they also sell one called the E-ROD. It is a 6.2L LS3 which makes 420hp and is 50 state legal. The kit includes everything to make it pass both visual and tailpipe emissions and it even comes with a smog certificate. So why not just use a donor engine from a truck? Well GM has done their homework and taken measures to ensure that the E-Rod is actually more viable and easier to swap in than a comparable donor engine. One area this makes a difference is the fuel tank, which if we decided to use a donor engine, we would also have been forced to use the donor fuel tank. This is major, as there is no easy way to fit a Chevy truck fuel tank under an FJ60. God bless GM for their forethought.

One last thing before we get started. SRMINT...? It's the color. A friend of mine has a 1987 Toyota Turbo pickup that is painted a color very close to this one, and he calls his JRMINT. Since the LC is the mini truck's older brother and spiritual mentor, Senior Mint just made sense.

Enough talk, let's get rolling.

Here's how he was brought in (yes, this truck is definitely a man).

 
Just after it arrived, it had to sit outside while I finished up another project (Lone Star Sleeper, which should be arriving in Texas about right now). Not wanting to leave it under the leafy oak trees, but also not out in the hot CA sun, I found a good and inexpensive car cover that fit perfectly. So perfect that I bought three of them.



Then we started gathering parts. I have been bitten in the past by starting a project before the major parts were in hand, so I have a policy to start on a job only when I have parts. Look at that brand new V8.



Then the disassembly began.











 
We quickly found that the frame was in need of attention. Someone had applied a thick rubberized undercoating, which hid a lot of frame rust, but with the body off, it became clear that repairs were needed.

Looks ok from this angle, right?



Nope!





The cleaning and repairs began with a good pressure washing and scrubbing. It was not bad enough to warrant a trip to the blasters, most of the rust and scale came of with a wire wheel, some paint stripper, some spot blasting and a needle scaler.





Here is where the worst of the rust was. In the back of the frame, sandwiched between the two layers of riveted steel. Rivets dispensed of, and plenty of prying finally released the hold on the offending rotted steel.





 
New steel in place and welded up. Paint was applied in between the two layers to ensure a long life.







Oh, to get the rusted rails apart, I had to drill and air chisel about 2 dozen rivets out of the way. Ughhh...
 
Careful disassembly and lots of pics, along with plenty of ziploc baggies marked with sharpie is time well spent. Do any of you remember what life was like before digital cameras? I take about 100 pics of the disassembly process.





Pics of certain areas that may cause confusion later are part of the job.





Disassembly of the body showed no major flaws, except one. The color of the engine bay was not body color. Most guys don't care about what's under the hood, but in this case, leaving it alone seemed contrary to the reason the tuck was brought to me in the first place. Our friend and regular here on ExPo, Stan of Hardline Fabrication, showed me one trick that makes life miserable in the short term, but well worth it in the long run. Pressure washing on the lift makes me nervous, but with enough prep (and the forethought of putting drains in my shop floor) make it go off without a hitch.







 
We didn't want to risk a mis-match on the body color, so we employed an old race car trick. Grey under the hood is a classic color for many racing cars, as it allows for sponsorship and body color changes without having to repaint the engine bay (or in most cases the interior of a bare metal race car), so that's what we did. Generic tool grey was used in this engine bay, and I think it looks nice.



And yes, we did that on the lift too.







 
Time to reunite the body and frame.

First, the body mounts were cleaned and inspected, then a thin layer of white grease was applied before assembly. Getting the body lined up with the frame is helped by using a couple of plumb bobs.











 

Arktikos

Explorer
Very nice. I like the documentation of work done to date, and also approve of the color scheme. Ditching the old carburetor engine won't get any protests from me, but the big HP replacement does prompt a question.

About how fast do you think one of these old wagons can travel safely, given their steering qualities, CG, brakes, etc.?
 
Thanks. The detailed documentation is multi-purpose. It allows everyone to see how a project like this is actually done, but it also acts as a calling card that I can refer to in the future, for my own needs and for potential clients to see.

Have you ever seen Cannonball Run? I think that fast.

Seriously though, the brakes on this one are going to see some upgrades, but that still leaves the leaf suspension. Seeing as how this only has a minimum lift, I bet it would never be a problem. I would not be scared to hit the 120 mph mark in this truck.

One more thing you should see is the Jeep Wagoneer that Bill Harrah owned back in the 70's. It has a Ferrari V12 under the hood.
 

JunkManTX

New member
Fair question and I feel qualified to answer as I just took delivery of my lone star sleeper today (see other Stoffregen thread). Wife is out of town and I took the three kids to dinner tonight and scared the ever livin !^%$ out of them. I can't quite imagine this stage wearing off anytime soon, but I'm sure it will. Until then, I enjoy surprising people on the streets. You do ask a valid question though. Basically, you've got a Silverado or Tahoe engine and in my case mated to a 6L80e transmission, which is super wicked. I think it all just feels more significant as you aren't sitting in a modern engineered vehicle designed for quite conversation. You've got a straight running beast with old iron and minimal insulation. So yes, it's not a Camaro and cornering is not it's speciality. The brakes are simple and work beautifully. More details to follow, but for day one it's been a scream. We have a few details to iron out, but it's silly fun to have people scratching their heads. You have to remember, you aren't showing up at the local chevy house and rolling off the lot. This is a marriage of what some consider to be one of the best off-road vehicles (FJ 60-62) and one of the most reliable engines made, the LS. More feedback to follow... Good luck SRMint, you've got a good man who's not afraid to learn and that's worth ALOT
 
If it were a flimsy platform, I would be nervous, but the FJ60 is so overly built to begin with that I really don't have any concerns. Swerving or hard braking in emergency conditions might pose a problem, but I think you guys are smart enough to know that it is a problem no matter what you're driving.

Be careful not to scare your Neighbors, Brian.
 
It took some marriage counseling, but with renewed vows, and the body finally on the frame, engine mock-up ensued.

The original 4 speed manual was ditched in favor of a 3000 mile old H55 5 speed trans.



Using the original type manual trans requires an adapter. Marks 4wd in Australia makes the only adapter we can use for this swap. It basically consists of an additional bellhousing that stacks together with the original Toyota bellhousing. Looks goofy for sure, but without the two stacked together, the engine would have to be far back or the transfer case would have to come far forward. Neither is an option as they both pose obvious problems.

New motor, right out of the box.





Remove the OEM flexplate and install the flywheel. I am freakishly anal about torque specs... Didn't used to be, but have grown to appreciate the details.







New adapter installed.



 
Time for mock-up in the truck. I've done a few of these swaps already, but everyone is slightly different. Auto trans vs manual, Gen III vs Gen IV engine. Car intake vs truck intake, headers, oil pan, etc. All these details make having one location for all the different engines almost impossible. But let's see if it will fit where the last one went.



I know they engine centerline is offset to the driver side, but by how much depends on which accessory drive and which transmission you use.



 

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