1996 Montero SR - Where can I purchase 4.9 or 5.29 gears?

[Cee-Jay]

I still haven't cranked the torsions, but will after motor goes in. I thought about doing it while motor was out.... but I'm afraid I wont be able to get the motor back in if I lift it, lol.

But yes, in that configuration, I only found that I rub a little when turned full lock one way and fully compressed. Not bad at all.

Thanks for that info, much appreciated.

Well, the Montero SR I was tellin' y'all about went on sale Friday. I was the first guy to view it Saturday morning. When I refused to accept the seller's counteroffer at $3600, I figured it would be sold to somebody else later that day... and in deed it sold for $3800 later that afternoon. I don't feel bad about not getting it though... in part due to you folks suggesting patience and also because it just didn't look as clean nor feel as solid as I'd expected it to be at that price. It was the first Montero I've actually test driven and I think I'd really built my expectations up a bit too high.

 

[LaOutbackTrail]

Just have a look (tire kick) at a few till you find the one you want. I basically bought mine sight unseen except the owner cooperated and answered every question I had (to the best he could answer) and take very detailed pics all over.

My line of thought was that I could get a montero for $1500 (indeed I did) and fix any issues that ANY of them could potentially have. They are older vehicles afterall. Thankfully most of them are soccer mom mobiles. Granted, unless you find one that has been completely gone through, you'll still likely spend as much fixing one up as you would a "good one". I'll have about $3500 into my truck after doing the motor rebuild, fixing odds and ends, putting tires, lift, and roof rack on it... So take your time and be willing to do a little work on the trucks. All trucks (regardless of make) will require some maintenance and work.

 

[zukrider]

my 94 SR with 31's, stock gearing, stock everything really: towed my 2500# samurai all throughout the mountain passes of Colorado at 55+. no issue. a few weeks later, i stepped to 33's, all stock. in city fuel mileage took a hit, all highway mileage improved. no towing on 33's. open front and rear with stock 4.6's, i made it through Wheeler Lake without to much trouble. for wheeling, i would like to be geared better, but for highway, the engine has plenty of power to make all the driving you require. i want better t-case gears, but am not going the stock route.

things to note! the trans has a power option. this will raise all shift points. while pulling my sami in the mountains, i used this. it works awesome. helps to keep the power up for pulling passes and large loads.

good luck with your choice!

 

[Monterorider]

Lowest you can go on 3.5L SR is 4.9. 5.29 is for smaller diffs found on 3.0L Monteros/Pajeros.

 

[off-roader]

Lowest you can go on 3.5L SR is 4.9. 5.29 is for smaller diffs found on 3.0L Monteros/Pajeros.

I concur although there was discussion down under of owners who have installed the smaller 5.29 ring gear in place of the larger SR ring gear and it worked. Haven't done it myself nor do I know anyone personally who has done it successfully.

 

[Monterorider]

I've heard that too. Inner R&P diameter is same on large and small diff. I don't see how pinion depth would work though but maybe. Then of course you get weaker diff to run larger tires. Kinda bad. Same upfront. You'd have to switch to smaller 7.25 diff from larger 8" and loose ability to run ARB locker. Not really practical. Another option you'd have to get low pinion Gen 1 front diff without Active Track. Later is not that bit of the deal I guess. But sourcing those gears are a bit of problem. Real mess.

 

[4D55 Performance]

I've heard that too. Inner R&P diameter is same on large and small diff. I don't see how pinion depth would work though but maybe. Then of course you get weaker diff to run larger tires. Kinda bad. Same upfront. You'd have to switch to smaller 7.25 diff from larger 8" and loose ability to run ARB locker. Not really practical. Another option you'd have to get low pinion Gen 1 front diff without Active Track. Later is not that bit of the deal I guess. But sourcing those gears are a bit of problem. Real mess.

I think you a bit confused about the 5.29 compatibility, you can retain an 8" front diff and a 9" rear diff is plenty strong for 37" tires. Do you really need an axle in the rear that is the size of a Dana 60? I think the 9.5 rear is complete overkill. The legendary FJ80 only has an 8" rear diff. Also having a LP or HP is not a huge difference when it comes to strength. The HP is stronger going forward, but the LP is stronger in reverse which is typically where I place the most load when I am pulling out others.

 

[Monterorider]

I'm not confused about anything. 8" 5.29 gears if you can find one is straight cut LP set. Those are same gears found in rear on early Gen1 raised top 4 door diesel. Gen 2 has 8" High Pinion reverse cut gear set upfront. You can't stuff LP into HP housing. You would have to get new(old) housing out of Gen 1 V6. That is if you can source those gears. Mitsu stopped making them long time ago. There was some talk about Chinese sources but it's been awhile since I was following that.

9" differential is plenty strong indeed, about the same as 9.5 but it doesn't end there. There is a huge difference in axle-shaft strengths. 9.5" shafts are prob about 30% stronger. Diff has larger carrier bearings, larger axle bearings, etc. I've broken rear axle shaft on my Monty with 33" climbing some shelfs . So no, smaller diff is not that strong. I would not put 37 on smaller diff unless it was a mall queen. Not even 35's if you are serious about wheeling. It might survive the later but things always fail at most inopportune moments. Luckily I'was able to drive out. Locked rear diff and drove home in 3WD.

Legendary toyota 80 series has 9.25 rear diff with full floating axle shaft it's at least as strong/rather stronger setup. Front is 8" reverse cut high pinion, about same as Montero.

Front facing recovery is generally bad idea. I personally always if possible turn around.

What I always liked about Montero is that it's very balanced vehicle. Mitsu engineers don't shove stronger components without reason. Smaller diff was nice match to 3.0 V6. Obviously either through testing they discovered or calculated somewhat heavier, somewhat more powerful 3.5L requires stronger axle. They had to convince bean counters that it is necessary despite being more expensive. That's why Monteros are so great and reliable. Every component nicely matches rest of vehicle. One doesn't end up with wimpy axles and mighty V8 or something like that. To me it makes very little scene to reduce strength, reliability to get silly 8% gain in gear reduction (4.9 v 5.29). Monkeying around with front diff notwithstanding.