1999 Disco II front driveshaft R & R

[voyageur]

Still catching up on Land Rover repair and maintenance issues...

Wife mentioned a strange squeaking sound from the front drive train of her Disco. I jacked up the front end and there are unpleasant sounds coming from the front drive shaft U-joint (it doesn't look like a normal U-joint), nearest the transfer case when I rotate the wheel back and forth. One wheel on the ground - driver side on a jack stand. I can see a good bit of play in the joint that is making the noise. Can I replace that joint? It doesn't look like a normal U-joint. Do I need to replace the entire drive shaft? For the record, I don't know any nearby Disco owner / experts and I definitely DON'T know any qualified LR mechanics. This forum has always been a God Send...

 

[Antichrist]

Read this thread, including the links in the first post. It should answer all your questions.
http://www.landroverforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29302

 

[bovw]

That's a double carden joint at that end. It probably has non servicable ujoints. A friend and I rebuilt my wife's with servicable joints and a new centering ball last year, then you have the grease nipple. Go to Advance or Napa get new joints, a driveline shop can do the work if you don't want to.

Advance would be Neapco 1-0005 joints and Neapco 7-0081NG centering ball kit.

Napa is Precision 344 joints and 617 centering ball.

TAKE of the front shaft and lock the transfer case cdl, or DO NOT drive the truck until fixed. When that joint comes apart, it will very likely take the transmission with it.

 

[voyageur]

Fantastic!

Tom...

Thank you so very much. This knowledge will save me the $300.00 for a new propeller shaft and once again..... I will be a "HERO" in my wife's eyes.

:victory:​

Now where did I put that hand cleaner...

 

[voyageur]

Thanks to you too,,,

Dave big thanky to you too...

I am going to head to the auto parts store and then go get dirty...

 

[muskyman]

I would pitch the whole shaft lock stock and barrel and replace it with a Tom Wood shaft.

the cost of a failure in destruction $$ is just to high IMHO to run the undersized factory unit. there are a number of them that have failed after being rebuilt taking the trans with it.

 

[voyageur]

Tom Wood Shaft

Would that mean I would be driving around with a "Woodie"?

Muskyman - I am not familiar with the company or person called "Tom Woods". Would you please elaborate?

Thanks...

 

[muskyman]

Would that mean I would be driving around with a "Woodie"?

Muskyman - I am not familiar with the company or person called "Tom Woods". Would you please elaborate?

Thanks...

yes indeed you would have a "woody"

Tom Wood builds a complete bolt in replacement shaft that will upgrade you to the larger 1310 series u-joints. Because the factory shafts are so suspect it only makes sense to upgrade the thing to bigger better shaft. Tom Wood builds the best replacement shaft on the market and had without a doubt the best customer service and warranty.

4xshaft.com

 

[voyageur]

Thanks Musky Man

I plan to be driving this vehicle for a long time... I will find him on the internet and ask for a quote.

By the way, I spent 17 summers of my life in Clayton, NY, right on the St Lawrence river. We fished for Pike and Musky's every fall. Is your nickname tied to Musky fishing or no connection?

 

[RoverDude]

How many miles on "her" DII? Well, the original drive shaft made it that far without serviceable u-joints. Rebuild the original to an even better version. Viola, you do the math. Save the serious money for "your" Rover.

 

[voyageur]

Good point Rover Dude...

Her 'Overy has gone 86K on original shaft. It is not an off road Rover. Kind of like the Land Rover TV ads, where the woman absolutely must get through the deep, deep puddles in the shopping Mall parking lot...

Mine of course is our off-road cruising machine...

:wings:​

I do want to buy a couple of 100watt solar panels and add a second Odyssey battery to MINE. Hmmm...

Now where is that hand cleaner...

 

[muskyman]

I plan to be driving this vehicle for a long time... I will find him on the internet and ask for a quote.

By the way, I spent 17 summers of my life in Clayton, NY, right on the St Lawrence river. We fished for Pike and Musky's every fall. Is your nickname tied to Musky fishing or no connection?

I chase musky with a passion

as far as the DII goes...dont let anyone talk you out of the up grade of the better shaft. You cant move the AC drain that drips down on the joint and you cant move the cat that cooks the grease out of it. Most the failures I have seen have been soccer mom trucks that live with the AC on and never saw a trail.

 

[Antichrist]

Maintenance history is key when talking DII propshaft failures.

• Lubed every oil change
• New grease coming from around all 4 seals on each u-joint

Given how often I see people post, "...a couple shots of grease once or twice a year." or "You don't want to pump in too much grease or you'll blow the seals", I suspect the majority of u-joints aren't getting lubed properly, especially when you add in people who don't lube them at all.
I have to wonder how many people, even when they know how u-joints are supposed to be lubed, actually pull their propshaft to fix the problem when they get grease coming from around only 2 or 3 seals, rather than all 4.
I've had a DII front shaft on my D1 for about 150k miles, lube it correctly and on schedule and don't drive in dread of failure.

That said, there's certainly nothing wrong with going with a TW or GBR front propshaft.