1G 4runner sleeping platform / gear box

[corax]

I've been meaning to do this for awhile. Since next year I'm hoping for more camping/relaxing/exploring than I've seen in the last 4 years, it was about time.

I started by measuring some of my camping gear. This gave me a base line for height and length that I might need - a few items won't fit, but they can be strapped down on top of the platform (like the cooler). You can see that alot of items measure close to 10 inches or half of that (stackable)

Here are the plans I'm working from (no fancy Sketch Up for me, this is on the back of an envelope). I'm not planning on drawers, but I can always add them, and if I do they will extend 1" past the tailgate (no need for overly beefy slides). I have ~26" of reach with one arm, so I can easily get to anything at the back. The front compartment is going to have a cut out lid for the less frequently used items (dashed line). I plan on using piano hinges for the sleeping leaves (seats down) and probably solid wood instead of plywood - I'm thinking of short hinged legs extending to the seat back to support the weight along its length, but I may have to go with legs to the floor if that doesn't work.

I used 1"x10" (5 - 4' lengths)for the uprights and a single 4x8 sheet of 1/2" "project" plywood for the top and bottom (ignore the cubby divider, I didn't notice it was warped when I bought it - need to get a new one). Originally I was only gonna use the plywood for the top, so it would have only taken 1 sheet for the gear box and fold over sleeping leaves, but I decided to use plywood on the bottom to reinforce the uprights, keep them verticle and make sliding it in/out easier. The front bulkhead is angled to follow the seatbacks and will provide a lip for the sleeping leaves to rest on. The fold over leaves are split so I can still have one passenger in back if I want. I would have removed the rear seat behind the driver completely, except that we'll need the full length rear seat when we get another dog. All of the uprights are glued and screwed. The top will also be glued/screwed to the uprights, but the bottom will only be screwed. I This is where I'm at currently:

with the top on (I had to flip the Hi-Lift so the pins are facing left to fit the box in)

Jerry can fits perfectly here. I'm going to make a 3 legged strap specifically for the jerry can to hold it in place (both sides and one over the top).

Here's my clearance on the top with the tailgate closed. If someone breaks the rear window they still won't be able to unlock the tailgate to get to anything in the cubbies.

The next step is to weld 4 nuts onto the roll bar so I can install screw eyes and turn buckles to hold this down and keep it from moving (think sudden stops). I was thinking of using the factory forward tie downs, but this barely fits between the wheel wells, so there's not enough space to use them. I also need to borrow a 3/4" dado blade and make the uprights into 1/2 engineered I-Beams so I can raise the top 3/4" (or just sandwich 3/4" thick furring strips between the top and uprights) - I forgot that marked wood size is never actual size, so my 1"x10" uprights are actually 3/4"x9 1/4" which would make the sleeping leaves angle up towards the front in order to clear the top of the seat bottom. Final step will be a healthy coat of white oil based latex on the inside and some low pyle dark grey carpet to wrap it in.

So what does everyone think - am I off to a good start or missing something that can still be worked into the plans at this stage?

 

[thebrassnuckles]

Looks pretty slick. what the heck kind of jerry cans are those?

 

[corax]

Looks pretty slick. what the heck kind of jerry cans are those?

That's a rigid plastic German can that I picked up for <$20 - just a cheapie camping can, better than nothing until I get a chance to buy this . The build date on my German can says it was made in 1971.

 

[corax]

I used 1x2's to space the top up the 3/4" that I needed, these also help tie the uprights together.

I added d-ring tie downs on both sides along with eyelets on the right side for the jerry can strap. There's also 1 d-ring in the center of the front board. For the jerry can tie down I'm making a simple nylon strap with a hoop in one end (for the eyelet) and a round ring on the other. The ring will reach the middle of the jerry can so I can take a simple strap from the other eyelet, through the ring and over the top to attach it to the deck surface - the straps will form an upside-down "T"

Cut out door for the front compartment. The opening is 21" x 10" which is big enough that I can sneak my double burner Coleman camp stove, propane and sleeping bags and forget about them. The rear edge of the door rests on the lateral upright and the front is getting a piano hinge, though there are supports on all 4 sides (helps reduce flex around the door).

tomorrow it'll get a thick coat of oil based paint before I glue and screw the top on.

 

[pELYgroso]

Looks good! I thought about doing the same thing, but I decided on some removeable large army boxed instead because I like to be able to sit upright in my sleeping spot, and with the platform, you'll always have to be "hunched" over or laying down. Had you thought about this? Maybe you just don't mind this, but if my wife and I are playing cards in the back or something, I want to be able sit up.

 

[4Rescue]

Lookin good mate. Makes me want to get on my Drawer/Platform set-up now... Just what I need... ANOTHER project. Thanks ALOT Corax

J/k man, can't wait to see what the end result looks like. I really like the access hatch you made. I've got to settle on how high I want my deck to be so I'll be interested to hear how you like your set-up...

CHeers

DAve

 

[Asha'man]

I'll be watching this thread as well, as I've been wanting to build a platform for several years now. I just discovered this week, though, while working on our chicken coop, that carpentry and I do not mix well, so we'll see what ever develops.

 

[corax]

I like to be able to sit upright in my sleeping spot, and with the platform, you'll always have to be "hunched" over or laying down.

My thoughts are that I'll probably end up carying a tent for a base camp anyway, but if I arrive late or need to catch some Zzz's in transit it'll work well (after stacking the strapped down items on the roof). I'm also giving some thought to an expanded steel "screen" so I can open the rear sliding windows and not worry about anyone reaching through while parked or sleeping.

Lookin good mate. Makes me want to get on my Drawer/Platform set-up now... Just what I need... ANOTHER project. Thanks ALOT Corax

J/k man, can't wait to see what the end result looks like. I really like the access hatch you made. I've got to settle on how high I want my deck to be so I'll be interested to hear how you like your set-up...

CHeers

DAve

Always gotta have projects - it's my own personal zen so I can maintain the semblance of sanity
BTW, gonna be on the move again in a few months, right now we're looking at SW Colorado or Medford/Ashland OR (almost stayed there when we moved east 2 years ago, I still count not stopping in OR for longer as a mistake)

I'll be watching this thread as well, as I've been wanting to build a platform for several years now. I just discovered this week, though, while working on our chicken coop, that carpentry and I do not mix well, so we'll see what ever develops.

It really wasn't that hard. Just make a plan and measure twice. I would have been more comfortable if I could've welded the wood together, but pre-drilling every hole made the screws go in straight and not poke out the sides

 

[4runnin']

Looks awesome! I am about to start the same project for my 1st gen runner. It will be purely a drawer system though just for behind the seats. Organizing a spot for my coleman stove is a top priority though and I like your cubby. Any thoughts as to how you are going to keep the stove and other things from bouncing around? I was thinking of getting some foam padding and cutting out the shape of the stove so that it would fit nicely into the foam (Just sit in the foam an inch or two down).

 

[Asha'man]

If you end up in CO, be sure to give us a shout on CoTTORA. Great group and maybe we can wheel together.

 

[corax]

Any thoughts as to how you are going to keep the stove and other things from bouncing around? I was thinking of getting some foam padding and cutting out the shape of the stove so that it would fit nicely into the foam (Just sit in the foam an inch or two down).

I have an old sleeping bag that doesn't zip up anymore, which I'm thinking would work decently as a bed mat. That'll just get stuffed on top and around everything in there to stop the noise.

If you end up in CO, be sure to give us a shout on CoTTORA. Great group and maybe we can wheel together.

I will take you up on that offer - definately think I need to take some time off and unwind a bit

 

[corax]

I'm considering it finished for now since our move date is getting close. I didn't get to finish the sleeping platform part of it, but it'll be an easy add-on later.
To cover it I was thinking outdoor carpet remnant or fabric till my wife spotted this at the home improvement big box store for a cheap $20 (really only needed 5' x 5')

It stretched by hand easily enough and I used 1/2" staples in the staple gun to attach it at all edges. Here's a close up of the cubby (just using a tether to open it) - virtually invisible isn't it?

Here's how the jerry can will strap down - I used a 2" ring from the big box store and a hoop on the other end of the nylon strap. I have a different strap that'll be just for the jerry can since the buckle can not be between the jerry can and the bed side (no room for it).

view through the rear window

with the tailgate open

Tie-downs are angled to prevent front/rear shift. I drilled a hole and welded the nut for each screw eye onto the roll bar since the front factory tie downs are completely inaccessible for use and the rears are covered by the Hi-Lift and the jerry can (I went with a 39" wide box, to use the factory front tie-downs, maybe 37" would be the ticket)

 

[Tonka]

Great thread.....will be doing the same to my Toyota for a trip to the middle east and north Africa....:smiley_drive:

Cheers Kev.

 

[thebrassnuckles]

I'm considering it finished for now since our move date is getting close. I didn't get to finish the sleeping platform part of it, but it'll be an easy add-on later.
To cover it I was thinking outdoor carpet remnant or fabric till my wife spotted this at the home improvement big box store for a cheap $20 (really only needed 5' x 5')

It stretched by hand easily enough and I used 1/2" staples in the staple gun to attach it at all edges. Here's a close up of the cubby (just using a tether to open it) - virtually invisible isn't it?

Here's how the jerry can will strap down - I used a 2" ring from the big box store and a hoop on the other end of the nylon strap. I have a different strap that'll be just for the jerry can since the buckle can not be between the jerry can and the bed side (no room for it).

view through the rear window

with the tailgate open

Tie-downs are angled to prevent front/rear shift. I drilled a hole and welded the nut for each screw eye onto the roll bar since the front factory tie downs are completely inaccessible for use and the rears are covered by the Hi-Lift and the jerry can (I went with a 39" wide box, to use the factory front tie-downs, maybe 37" would be the ticket)

holy smokes!!!!

I have the same truck with a very similar box, and I almost grabbed one of those carpet kits (rugs) at lowes the other day.. I will definitely pick up 2 or 3... I have to do the whole danged 4runner....