2" body lift procedure Gen 2

[MummifiedCircuitry]

Hello, does anyone have experience installing a 2" body lift on their gen 2/2.5 montero? I read a walkthrough on an australian forum and the guy says you'll need a transfer case lever extension, is this correct? I checked under my montero SR and it appears to already have a factory 1" lift, I don't think an added inch would make much difference or make the lever bang on the trans tunnel or make it go from 2h to 4h unexpectedly. Also, what is a good source for a 2" body lift kit domestically, all I've seen is 4crawler.com. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

 

[Eric M]

I don't know if you'll need a transfer case lever extension, but you are right that there is a factory body lift on your Montero. It's on the 4M40 and 3.5L Monteros for driveline clearance. 4crawler is the only source for lift mounts in the US, but I have read good things about him.

 

[jlocster]

Some pics here ---> link

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

Thank you, I've read through eurosonic's build a few times, love his truck. His write-up is simple, loosen bolts, jack up one side, insert lift blocks, do other side, tighten up. The issue is I've seen other write-up's that highlight the points below as well as other mount issues. I'm just trying to get my facts straight before I dig into mine. I've already cranked the t-bars, ordering the 2" sequoia rear coil spacers to level it out with the front, have kyb monomax shocks front and rear to install, want to order the 2" bodylift, and haven't decided on springs yet. I don't necessarily want lift springs, but there don't seem to be many options for our trucks in that category. With the modifications mentioned, I'm wondering if I'll need to get extended brake lines, relocate filler neck, trim trans tunnel lip, etc. Thanks again.

*taken from cap510*
1. Two front brake lines, they weren't long enough but notice they have coils inside the engine compartment so I carefully stretch them
enough to accommodate the lift. The hardest one was the driver side one since the battery compartment sits on top of it, I have to remove
the whole thing to make room to work on it, plus there are some other hoses you may want to look under the battery compartment that
might break during the lift. (AC, electrical wires, brake lines)
2. Front Brake lines that run on the inner side of the frame by the driver side would not stretch enough so I disconnect them from the
frame.
3. Gas Tank line, I disconnect them from the body, they were long enough
4. Center Console, I remove it to make sure the transfer case shifter would go down with the tranny and to see if the tarnny shifter and
hand brake would be affected with the lift. No problem
5. Radiator, I removed the shroud, & drained radiator, also remove the hoses so that they don't brake during the lift. I put them back
after the lift was done, they are long enough (I still have to drop the radiator 2” down to accommodate the shroud again)
6. Rear Diff. I had to disconnect the hose from the body that goes to the diff once disconnected, it's long enough even when rear
suspension is at full drop

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Thank you, I've read through eurosonic's build a few times, love his truck. His write-up is simple, loosen bolts, jack up one side, insert lift blocks, do other side, tighten up. The issue is I've seen other write-up's that highlight the points below as well as other mount issues. I'm just trying to get my facts straight before I dig into mine. I've already cranked the t-bars, ordering the 2" sequoia rear coil spacers to level it out with the front, have kyb monomax shocks front and rear to install, want to order the 2" bodylift, and haven't decided on springs yet. I don't necessarily want lift springs, but there don't seem to be many options for our trucks in that category. With the modifications mentioned, I'm wondering if I'll need to get extended brake lines, relocate filler neck, trim trans tunnel lip, etc. Thanks again.

*taken from cap510*
1. Two front brake lines, they weren't long enough but notice they have coils inside the engine compartment so I carefully stretch them
enough to accommodate the lift. The hardest one was the driver side one since the battery compartment sits on top of it, I have to remove
the whole thing to make room to work on it, plus there are some other hoses you may want to look under the battery compartment that
might break during the lift. (AC, electrical wires, brake lines)
2. Front Brake lines that run on the inner side of the frame by the driver side would not stretch enough so I disconnect them from the
frame.
3. Gas Tank line, I disconnect them from the body, they were long enough
4. Center Console, I remove it to make sure the transfer case shifter would go down with the tranny and to see if the tarnny shifter and
hand brake would be affected with the lift. No problem
5. Radiator, I removed the shroud, & drained radiator, also remove the hoses so that they don't brake during the lift. I put them back
after the lift was done, they are long enough (I still have to drop the radiator 2” down to accommodate the shroud again)
6. Rear Diff. I had to disconnect the hose from the body that goes to the diff once disconnected, it's long enough even when rear
suspension is at full drop

What part number is on those rear kyb shocks you intend to use?

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

Front: 565024, Rear: 565025.