2000 Ford Explorer Expo

jay3253

Adventurer
Well I have done a few things so I thought I would start a build thread. My goal for this vehicle at least is a domestic expedition vehicle. By domestic expo I mean I want it for use in the US, Canada parts of Mexico. It will not be bullet proof but it will at least be bullet resistant.

Goal for this build:
Tires: 32in but narrow
Lift: 2in
Drive Train: Stock
Drawer System: Homemade DONE
Bumpers: Homemade
Wench: Maybe maybe not

This is what I started with:
IMG_0902.JPG


First thing I did was removed the running boards much to my short wifes pains:
IMG_0908.JPG


Then removed the factory roof rack:
IMG_0361.JPG


Then I did the drawer system:
IMG_0365.JPG

I want to say this would not have been possible without my father-n-law and grandfather-n-law.

I think you can browse the pics but that is about it let me know what you think.
 
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FROADER

Adventurer
For the 2" lift are you going with a body lift, or the torsion twist and shackles or add-a-leaf?
 

Jean-Seb

Adventurer
Only good for 80lbs. I am going to have a rooftop test eventually and need to remove it for my homemade roof rack.

Nicely done so far ! And yes, don't make the same mistake I made... the stock roof rack isn't solid enough. hahaha
 

jgpoirier

Adventurer
TT and Rear Shackles I don't like body lifts...

I have done T/S lifts on both my 99 explorer sport and my present durango and have been extremely happy, but to be honest I would recommend if you have the patience(if your installing yourself) to make use of an add-a-leaf. I'm wishing I had.

Guy
 

jay3253

Adventurer
I have done T/S lifts on both my 99 explorer sport and my present durango and have been extremely happy, but to be honest I would recommend if you have the patience(if your installing yourself) to make use of an add-a-leaf. I'm wishing I had.

Guy

Maybe I will do that next. I will have enough weight in the back during trips that it might be a good idea but for now I will stick to what I have planned.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Nice rig.

I would advise against cranking the torsion bars for 2" of lift. From the factory, there is only about 3" of down travel in the front suspension. Raising the front 2" makes the ride terrible as the shocks top out horrible on rough surfaces. The suspension also won't compress as easily off road, and when it does it will weaken the torsion bars and cause them to sag before long. I've had 3 explorer based vehicles on that platform and the most I've been able to raise the front and retain a decent ride is 1".

31x10.50s will fit on the Explorer stock, no rubbing. 265/70/16s (32x10.50) will probably work just fine as well. If you want to keep the rear suspension a little softer and more flexible, consider longer shackles. Warrior products use to sell some 1.5" lift shackles, maybe they still do.

You might even think about making your own 1" body lift, and combining that with a 1" torsion bar adjustment. I think I would go that route if I did it again. Although I had a 3" performance accessories body lift on a 98 ranger and 2005 Explorer Sport Trac, and honestly they were perfectly fine. The goal was to increase approach/breakover angles and fit 33x12.50s with no rubbing, and it did that.

If you're interested in lockers, aussie makes an automatic locker for the 31 spline 8.8, and they use to make one for the front d35. It is discontinued but they are out there if you look hard enough. I ran them front and rear on my sport trac and loved it.

The suspension will actually work fairly well if you disconnect the sway bars off road. You can make or buy quick disconnects (warrior products), but they are noisy. It is actually easier to remove one end link (takes only a minute) when you go off road. The ride is significantly smoother and it will actually let the suspension do what it is suppose to.

If you decide to add a roof rack later, consider a Yakima Megawarrior basket. The width is perfect for the explorer roof. I used one on my sport trac to carry a 33" spare.

I won't post a bunch of pictures in your thread, but this is my sport trac with the 3" body lift, and disconnected front and rear sway bars. The suspension was completely stock, same setup as your explorer.

http://www.rotor-heads.com/images/sporttrac/flex1.jpg
http://www.rotor-heads.com/images/sporttrac/flex2.jpg
 

jay3253

Adventurer
brianjwilson

Thank you for your input I was thinking about only 1" but wanted more clearance not for the tires but the ground. I also don't want to go any wider than I already have now. I was thinking going 205 maybe 215 and go taller I have 265s on it now with no rubbing.

I was going to disconnect the rear sway-bar permanently but haven't had the courage yet.

ARB still makes an air locker for the rear but don't really want a locker in the front especially the Aussi-locker. I don't want it to lock when I am not expecting it.

I am also going to make my own basket for the top along with my own tent not being ambitious just want to make my own stuff so I know how it will hold together.

Keep an eye out for me I will be doing more as soon as I can.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
For what it's worth, I often left front and rear swaybars disconnected on the ranger and sport trac, even on the street. I never left the explorer disconnected since that as the wifes daily driver, so I couldnt tell you how it will handle. I think I still have quick disconnects for the rear axle if you're interested, I'll have to check my toolbox when I'm at home.

Eaton also sells an e-locker for the rear I believe.
Torsen now sells a gear driven limited slip for the front diff as well, you would probably have to contact them directly for info.
 

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