2002 Montero Limited Gen3 No Start Condition

DJPurdue

Observer
Update (05.23.2016).

This Montero is making me so frustrated :mad:

Yesterday (Sunday morning 5.22.16) I had a friend of a friend who is a professional mechanic look at the car. He brought his OBD2 Diagnostic scanner with him. He plugged it in and there was no communication between the ECM and the scanner. Then I noticed that there was no Check Engine Light in the dash. The guy said that I could have fried the ECM by jumping the car. That has happened to me before when I tried to jump my motorcycle and fried the ECM on it.

So today I am going to unplug the ECM (I believe it should be in the passenger side kick panel like Honda's) and then see if its the same situation. I looked online and eBay has the ECM for $269 including the key and all so no reprogramming is required. That's what I would go with unless the community tells me otherwise (that is if it is an ECM issue). Would not want to mess with reprogramming. Just need to get this thing running again.

Any input is welcome.
 

DJPurdue

Observer
Update (06.03.2016)

Swapped out the ECU, still no Check Engine Light (CEL). Car will not start.

Thought maybe the relays are bad and ordered a set of those, swapped them out, still not CEL. Car will still not start.

I registered on JustAnswer.com to get professional guidance and the answer I got was to check compression. Will try to do that tomorrow.

I am ready to take some gasoline and a lighter and call it a day :mad:

I am surprised that no one from the community is even replying to the thread.
 

Offroadmuch

Explorer
Have you tried any of the Mitsubishi sports car forums where guys are doing some advanced "tuning" with engines? They may have an edge with the really technical stuff. I can't see why this would be a "Montero" specific problem as opposed to whatever engine you have 3.5 or 3.8 V6 etc...

I know going to the dealer is an expensive way to go but they will have the most Mitsubishi specific experience. They will usually apply the cost of diagnosis to the cost of the repair so it they figure it out the trouble shooting works out to be free. Your Mileage May Vary with that....
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
Did you ever crank it for a bit then pull a plug and smell for gas? Also smell the cylinder (use a piece of hose if you can't get your nose close enough). I know you got fuel back by the tank (your gas shower) but that doesn't mean it's getting into the manifold. You need to determine if your injectors are firing. If you have spark, and fuel in the cylinders, that is good info to have for next steps.
Also, can you confirm that your check engine light is working (not removed or burned out)? When you turn key on your cluster will illuminate in diagnostic mode, everything should light up, do you see the check engine light at that time?
 
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DJPurdue

Observer
Did you ever crank it for a bit then pull a plug and smell for gas? Also smell the cylinder (use a piece of hose if you can't get your nose close enough). I know you got fuel back by the tank (your gas shower) but that doesn't mean it's getting into the manifold. You need to determine if your injectors are firing. If you have spark, and fuel in the cylinders, that is good info to have for next steps.

As I was cranking it yesterday, I smelled the gas. I will pull out the plug and check for fuel in the cylinder today and repl

Also, can you confirm that your check engine light is working (not removed or burned out)? When you turn key on your cluster will illuminate in diagnostic mode, everything should light up, do you see the check engine light at that time?

CEL never comes on. Yesterday, I pulled out the cluster and checked the little light that illuminates the CEL. Its a very small light that's soldered into the board. It does not light up. From the looks of it I can say that it seems burned out. I am not too worried about that as long as the computer is giving signal to the car.

Once I check that I am getting the fuel in the cylinder, I will provide the update.

Thanks guys.
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
And you said that you tried to hook up a computer to read codes, but you couldn't communicate with trucks ECU, but you replaced the ECU with a new (refurbished) one. Can you talk to the computer now?

Also, does the Gen-3 have a Schrader valve under the hood on the fuel line so you can check pressure? Does the truck sputter at all, or is it just a dead crank when you turn it over?
 
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DJPurdue

Observer
Thanks for the reply Salonika.

And you said that you tried to hook up a computer to read codes, but you couldn't communicate with trucks ECU, but you replaced the ECU with a new (refurbished) one. Can you talk to the computer now?

So the mechanic that came earlier with his computer couldn't get the car's original computer to talk to his reader. I bought a cheap Bluetooth OBD-II reader that works with your phone to check the refurbished one that I bought. I could get that to communicate with the car. Then I had a thought and I put the stock (original) one back and it communicated just fine with the OBD-II reader.

I suppose that because the car hadn't been running, there were no codes at all that could be read.

Also, does the Gen-3 have a Schrader valve under the hood on the fuel line so you can check pressure? Does the truck sputter at all, or is it just a dead crank when you turn it over?
I would have to look for that valve. I don't think that I have seen it. The car just turns and turns, no sputter.

Anyway, yesterday I said enough is enough and found a shop where one of the mechanic has 2 Gen 3 Monteros a 2002 and a 2006 (3.8). I had the car towed there.

He used his OBD reader to connect to the car's computer (original) and got the code for the EGR valve. He said that its possible that the valve is chocked and that's why the computer is not letting the car start up. He said that he would look at it tomorrow (today 06.07.16) and then let me know.

I will update here once I get to know if the problem is resolved.

Thanks everyone.
 

DJPurdue

Observer
Update 06.20.16

Had the car towed to the shop. I didnt want to do a compression test (guess I was tired of messing with it). The shop did a compression test and told me that cylinder 1 and 4 did not have compression at all. The tech was recommending to take the heads to a shop and have them machine it and then re-install and change the timing belt. All in all, he wanted $3,200 + tax.

That was more than I paid for the car. Had it towed back home. Now started tearing it apart. Almost got 1 head off.

I found that salvage yards are selling complete heads for anywhere between $150-$250. My thinking is to just get those, clean them up and put them in.

Any input welcome :)
 

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