2003 Mitsubishi Montero flashing cdl

[The Viper]

So I just go a new 2003 Mitsubishi Montero 20th ann. It seems that after 15-20 minutes of driving the cdl light starts to flash. Ive heard some of you other guys have had this issue. Prior to this happening all 4wd modes work properly and after restarting the monty all the 4wd modes work again until the next 15 min of drive time

I heard a mention of cleaning the 5 "switches" or replacing them


What do the switches look like, can they be reached by had without removing anything?


EDIT: So I just read this on justanswer.com..."A malfunction in the freewheel clutch system can sometimes cause abnormal noises from the front end during certain driving conditions as well. If you hear any groans/grinds/etc during certain levels of acceleration or deceleration then this is likely going to be the culprit. A malfunction in the freewheel system about 90% of the time will be attributed to a failed free wheel clutch solenoid pack (the ones located under the air filter). Vacuum leaks/rotten hoses and actuators can also be problems, but are far less common"...

So they also talk about a low rumble or groaning noise when accelerating, which the mitsu tech also attributes to the faulty free wheel clutch solenoid. The part number for this is MR430381

So I disconnected the free wheel clutch solenoid, started the vehicle and immediately got the blinking cdl light, so hopefully replacing this will be the answer.

Still would love to hear other peoples thoughts on the matter, for those that had this problem did you also have that low rumble or groan when accelerating?


EDIT: Crap! it looks like ill be replacing this free wheel clutch cylindar regardless if thats the issue...I just broke the plastic hose end that was connected to the rubber vacuum hose. How do you get those little rubber vacuum lines off of without breaking the hose or what its connected to???

 

[nckwltn]

I get the same flashing CDL light after a bit of driving in our '03 Limited.... haven't dug into it yet, but seems like it is one of the switches as common of an issue as it is..... pretty sure you have to drop the transmissions because all of the switches are on top.

 

[The Viper]

I ordered the free wheel clutch solenoid pack, ill make sure to post back to let everyone know if that was the issue

Another culprit is the front propeller sensor, which ive read, people say had broken


another piece of advice is getting the transmission error fault codes, which you can ask Mitsu tech to do (jhill15 recommended), although i think you can get the code manually by using a wire stuck into pin 4 (DLC3 connector) and the other end grounded, turn the key to on position and your cdl light should start flashing as a pattern you count. I read this on justanswer and im assuming the dlc3 connector is the one under the obd2 connector.

 

[Sabre]

First, everyone has cheap, easy access to both reading and resetting their fault codes with the inexpensive bluetooth OBDII readers that are widely available. Add a smartphone and an app such as Torque and you're all set.

Second, replacing the five switches on the top of the transfer case isn't a super-difficult job and does not require the disassembly of any driveline components. You drop the frame crossmember under the transmission and the whole thing just rotates down, giving you access to the top of the transfer case.

 

[The Viper]

Second, replacing the five switches on the top of the transfer case isn't a super-difficult job and does not require the disassembly of any driveline components. You drop the frame crossmember under the transmission and the whole thing just rotates down, giving you access to the top of the transfer case.

Is this the transfer case, whereabouts on it are those "magical" 5 switches located? After undoing that crossmember piece, can you explain what you mean by the "whole thing just rotates down"? Do you just grab the transfer case and hand turn it down?

And im assuming, this is the crossmember section?

 

[Sabre]

Yes, that's it. You need to be careful taking the cross member out because it actually supports the transfer case. As you loosen the last fasteners the whole thing will want to drop. Being bolted to the transmission, the entire engine/trans/XC moves...it pivots on the engine mounts. The drive line to the rear diff drops with it, of course. It's not difficult for an average home mechanic, but be prepared to control the weight as it drops.

The switches are all on the top of the transfer case...diagrams are available online.

 

[The Viper]

Yes, that's it. You need to be careful taking the cross member out because it actually supports the transfer case. As you loosen the last fasteners the whole thing will want to drop. Being bolted to the transmission, the entire engine/trans/XC moves...it pivots on the engine mounts. The drive line to the rear diff drops with it, of course. It's not difficult for an average home mechanic, but be prepared to control the weight as it drops.

The switches are all on the top of the transfer case...diagrams are available online.

yikes, thats sounds scary as hell!

so my thought is...drive the montys front wheels up on some car ramps. That should give me some space to fit a jack under it to put under the cross member, then as i loosen the crossmember bolts i can slowly lower the transfer case...how many inches can i safely lower this without bending things?

So things just drop straight down, you dont actually turn the transfer case once it lowers?

also, so there are 2 halves to the transfer case, the part that goes to the rear diff and the part that goes to the center diff? which half are the 5 switches located?


Thanks sabre for your help

 

[Sabre]

Yup, I did it with front wheel ramps and a jack under the transfer case. It's really not that it's terribly heavy (it's sort of balanced by the weight of the engine, which lifts up as the drivetrain drops), but that it's awkward and you want to control its descent.

Nothing bent. It drops down and stops by itself. I kept some of its weight on the jack, just to avoid stressing some place that might not like to pulled, tugged, or bent!

Yes, it just comes straight down. There's no way to rotate it without separating it from the transmission and disassembling the drivetrain. It is a bit of a PITA to sort out the best position for your hands and tools in the space above the transfer case, but it's far, far less work than trying to actually remove the beast.

Here's the arrangement of the switches. Note that the switches themselves are on top, but that you can easily reach all of their connections from below.

 

[The Viper]

Installed new fly wheel clutch solenoid yesterday. I continuously drove it for an hour, driving in the city and the highway, and parked but running and the flashing cdl didnt come back. So im hoping this is fixed.

Thanks Sabre for your detailed help on those 5 switches, that info will be very valuable for others with a cdl blinking light issue

 

[cyrusreyes]

Installed new fly wheel clutch solenoid yesterday. I continuously drove it for an hour, driving in the city and the highway, and parked but running and the flashing cdl didnt come back. So im hoping this is fixed.

Thanks Sabre for your detailed help on those 5 switches, that info will be very valuable for others with a cdl blinking light issue

fly wheel clutch solenoid?

Part # MR430381
is this the part I need to fix my Montero?

 

[cyrusreyes]

Or Do I need to replace the switches?

 

[The Viper]

fly wheel clutch solenoid?

Part # MR430381
is this the part I need to fix my Montero?

Yes, this is the part number I used to fix my 2003 montero... Will it fix your Montero? Idk

If you have the issue I did....blinking cdl after 15-20 minutes of continuous driving, then I would think replacing the free wheel clutch solenoid should solve ur problem.

 

[clmrt]

Start with the easy and cheap. I had the dealer do everything based on a code 33, every transfer case switch and the front diff switch. Only when the solenoid was replaced (last thing done on this particular job) would the code finally clear for good.

Solenoid, vac line check, greased actuator rod on front diff, no rusty vac accumulator, ohm check on all switches.

 

[cyrusreyes]

Thank you guys!

I will order the part and I will let you guys know how it turns out!

do you guys still have your Montero?

Here's mine!

 

[haolepinoy]

Thanks Sabre for your detailed help on those 5 switches, that info will be very valuable for others with a cdl blinking light issue

Yes, thank you guys. Just purchased an '03 with the cdl light issue. This will be very helpful (especially the pictures).