James86004 said:
Something broke completely in the rear, and something broke partially in the front. There is still front-wheel-drive, but there is an awful banging every wheel rotation coming from the left front.
I suspected this was going to happen soonish knowing that you folks actually use your Dormobile off road. Pretty much every Dormobile I know that gets used off road got switched to a Salisbury rear though most have stock fronts.
I'm running about 550 pounds heavier than you. Of course I carry 2 more fuel tanks (extra 22 gallons) and a 15 gallon built in water tank plus the heavier Salisbury.
As Keith mentioned your front problem might be a broken U joint. Or it might be a broken tooth in the 4.7 diff. If you broke a diff tooth I suggest converting to the much stronger 4.75:1 ring & pinion set. Font Axles are not often a problem. I only broke 1 axle & 2 R&P gears up front during my first 20 years of driving my Land Rover (four cyl engine). A year into my V8 I remove a twisted but still intact front axle (the other side to the one that broke earlier) when I went to replace a broken 4.7:1 R&P gear set.
My front new has a used set of Seriestrek 24 spline axles, 4.75 R&P in a Trutrac diff sitting inside a early RR carrier.
Considering that you are on a very limited budget I suggest just fixing what broke in the front and if it was the R&P upgrade to the 4.75 ratio. It should be plenty strong for your Euro 6.
The front discs sold by Rocky Mountain are about the least expensive conversion you will find. I'm still quite happy with mine They will work with whatever axle you put into the Rover axle housing allowing you to have front discs without solving the coiler steering arm leaf spring interference problem. Your truck has power brakes right?
The rear Salisbury vs RR diff is a tough one. The Salisbury is the same width as stock & the RR diff will give you a slightly wider track. Either way I agree a ARB in the rear would be stronger & I would suggest the stronger 4.75 R&P Jim's Toy conversion looks good but I think you need to do both front & rear to get the same R&P ratio. Jim? What's the closest ratio you can get?
Steering. Maybe its time to convert to LHD power steering? Series rigs are one of the easiest to convert. I think the hardest part might be mounting the power steering pump. The parts you need for the conversion should be readily available used and for not a whole lot of $$ since they are parts that just don't break and there is no real parts market for them.
Timm Cooper has evidently been using P-38 RR power steering boxes for a couple years new with great success. One from a wrecking yard might be easier to find than a Scout II box. You you really want to stay RHD, there's always a used P-38 RHD box from a UK wrecking yard.
Stay away from a 3.54 R&P unless you are planning to convert to a LT77S with LT230 transfer case. The LT230 has very different ratios than a Series box which explains the very different R&P ratios. A bell housing would be the stickler on an LT77S conversion
A SIII box would need to be custom built with a 6 cyl/Series I bellhousing to fit your engine. I think it is quite doable but I don't recall anyone doing it previously. I can't think of any reason why a six cyl bellhousing could not be fitted to a SIII gearbox.
I don't know anyone with an adapter that would allow you to use an American truck gearbox with a Series 4 or six cyl engine.
Of course if $$$ were no object I would suggest a International harvester NGD 3.0E engine (185 HP @ 3800 RPM, 325 lb-ft @ 2200 RPM) A short bellhousing R380 gearbox from Ashcroft, LT230 transfercase into Jim's Toy front & rear axles.
Or use RR classic front & rear axles while converting your front suspension over to coils.
Of course, like me you are on a tight budget so I suggest:
1. Stock front axle assembly, upgraded to 4.75 R&P if you broke yours and the front disc brake conversion sold by Rock Mountain (unless you solve the RR classic into Series steering interference).
2. RR classic rear axle assembly if you add front disc brakes, Salisbury if you do not. Convert to ARB diff and 4.75:1 R&P as you can afford it)
3. SIII gearbox with a six cyl bellhousing. Remember the key to longevity of a SIII box is to hesitate just slightly in the middle of the 'H' whilst shifting.
4. Source a RHD P-38 steering box & maybe a power steering box & mounting bracket from a six cylinder Rover car.
Good luck!