2008 Tundra Overland Trailer Towing Advice

Tundra08

New member
Hello everyone. I'm going to post up a lot of detail in hopes of getting some very specific advice about towing a smaller trailer. I am asking because while I have plenty of offroad/overlanding experience and I have towed many a utility trailer, I've never had a dedicated camper for trips like this so I want to ensure it's set up correctly/safely. The basics of my tow vehicle are; 2008 Tundra Crewmax SR5 4X4 with the 5.7L engine and the 5'6" bed. The truck currently has a diamondback switchback metal bed cover and I'm planning some decked drawers. Other than that and the Cooper AT3's, the truck is mostly stock. I may add some additional lights for camping, ditch lights, a small roof rack for storage but nothing extreme. I have considered removing the bedcover and adding a go fast topper that weighs approx. 135 lbs. (https://gofastcampers.com/pages/gfc-platform-topper-v2) This would be down the road and used for extended trips with the whole family where more storage is needed. Of course that's if I have the room weight wise. If I need to stay with the current decked drawers and metal bed cover, that's just fine.

I'm looking at a smaller trailer for mild overloading. No crazy off-roading, just boon docking, BLM roads, forest roads, etc. The trailer loaded up will weigh aprox. 3000 pounds with an approx 400 lb tongue weight. Add my family of 4, (me, wife and two teenage boys and dog) and I wonder if I'm being safe weight wise. I know a WDH is a bit overkill for a small trailer but my goal is to be as safe and comfortable as possible with the thousands of miles this trailer will hopefully see. I am in the process of changing out the rear shocks and I may add airbags just for stability and comfort on the road, not for extra weight. So some numbers to put all this together are;

Truck Door Sticker Weight Limit - 1325 max payload.

Trailer - 3000 (rounded UP from dry equipped weight of 2613 lbs to factor in water tank filled, propane, etc.)
Tongue Weight - 400 (rounded UP from 375 which is the tongue weight with water tank filled)
Family weight W/ dog - 675 - diet starts tomorrow
Decked Drawers - 208 Empty
Current Bed Cover - 70

So If I'm doing my math correctly, and that is a concern, I'm approx 25 lbs over as it stands now with no tools in the drawers or any other luggage, camping chairs, food, etc. When I also factor in things like airbags, a we-boost, solar panel, additional battery, etc, I'm past the limit.


Since I am new to this specific aspect of overlanding, I would appreciate some feedback from those experienced in this. Have I answered my own question and this set up won't work or am I missing something? Thank you in advance for the assistance.
 
Your math seems correct, discouraging isn't it? You might investigate pop-ups. Less convenient but a lot of space for the weight. If you stick with the 3000# trailer you'll likely be OK w/o a WDH (100# +/-) Get a simple friction anti-sway bar.
 

Tundra08

New member
Your math seems correct, discouraging isn't it? You might investigate pop-ups. Less convenient but a lot of space for the weight. If you stick with the 3000# trailer you'll likely be OK w/o a WDH (100# +/-) Get a simple friction anti-sway bar.
Thank you for the reply and yes, it is discouraging. I spend most of my time in the mountains so I would much prefer a hard sided camper. When you sit down and start adding stuff up with the calculator, you can eat up the weight of a half ton truck with very little effort. I may have to go with a smaller trailer just to ensure I stay within my limits but I'd rather not.
 

Dave in AZ

Active member
Thank you for the reply and yes, it is discouraging. I spend most of my time in the mountains so I would much prefer a hard sided camper. When you sit down and start adding stuff up with the calculator, you can eat up the weight of a half ton truck with very little effort. I may have to go with a smaller trailer just to ensure I stay within my limits but I'd rather not.
Look in your owner's manual also. It is not as simple as tongue weight adding to payload. There is a whole section on trailers. They have a max cargo weight for trailers too, and if the weight comes from trailer, where the CG needs to be. There is a max towing weight, a max tow weight without controlled brakes, etc.

On my 21 Tacoma, it is section 4.1. The Tundra has the same sort of manual. Will post pics in a sec.
 
Last edited:

Moyshe Kapoyer

Active member
Hello everyone. I'm going to post up a lot of detail in hopes of getting some very specific advice about towing a smaller trailer. I am asking because while I have plenty of offroad/overlanding experience and I have towed many a utility trailer, I've never had a dedicated camper for trips like this so I want to ensure it's set up correctly/safely. The basics of my tow vehicle are; 2008 Tundra Crewmax SR5 4X4 with the 5.7L engine and the 5'6" bed. The truck currently has a diamondback switchback metal bed cover and I'm planning some decked drawers. Other than that and the Cooper AT3's, the truck is mostly stock. I may add some additional lights for camping, ditch lights, a small roof rack for storage but nothing extreme. I have considered removing the bedcover and adding a go fast topper that weighs approx. 135 lbs. (https://gofastcampers.com/pages/gfc-platform-topper-v2) This would be down the road and used for extended trips with the whole family where more storage is needed. Of course that's if I have the room weight wise. If I need to stay with the current decked drawers and metal bed cover, that's just fine.

I'm looking at a smaller trailer for mild overloading. No crazy off-roading, just boon docking, BLM roads, forest roads, etc. The trailer loaded up will weigh aprox. 3000 pounds with an approx 400 lb tongue weight. Add my family of 4, (me, wife and two teenage boys and dog) and I wonder if I'm being safe weight wise. I know a WDH is a bit overkill for a small trailer but my goal is to be as safe and comfortable as possible with the thousands of miles this trailer will hopefully see. I am in the process of changing out the rear shocks and I may add airbags just for stability and comfort on the road, not for extra weight. So some numbers to put all this together are;

Truck Door Sticker Weight Limit - 1325 max payload.

Trailer - 3000 (rounded UP from dry equipped weight of 2613 lbs to factor in water tank filled, propane, etc.)
Tongue Weight - 400 (rounded UP from 375 which is the tongue weight with water tank filled)
Family weight W/ dog - 675 - diet starts tomorrow
Decked Drawers - 208 Empty
Current Bed Cover - 70

So If I'm doing my math correctly, and that is a concern, I'm approx 25 lbs over as it stands now with no tools in the drawers or any other luggage, camping chairs, food, etc. When I also factor in things like airbags, a we-boost, solar panel, additional battery, etc, I'm past the limit.


Since I am new to this specific aspect of overlanding, I would appreciate some feedback from those experienced in this. Have I answered my own question and this set up won't work or am I missing something? Thank you in advance for the assistance.


If you ditch the Decked system (they are heavy and waste space) and put everything in plastic totes, you'll get 200 lbs back.



Cargo should be stuffed into the trailer, instead of the truck, that way you are only dealing with 10-13% of the weight.



As for the WDH, they are fine, but for off roading you’ll have to unhook it and they also are heavy. If you do the WDH, it will make the airbags irrelevant with such a small trailer.
 

Tundra08

New member
If you ditch the Decked system (they are heavy and waste space) and put everything in plastic totes, you'll get 200 lbs back.



Cargo should be stuffed into the trailer, instead of the truck, that way you are only dealing with 10-13% of the weight.



As for the WDH, they are fine, but for off roading you’ll have to unhook it and they also are heavy. If you do the WDH, it will make the airbags irrelevant with such a small trailer.
Thanks for the reply. As I've been digging into this I did make a pivot I'll throw out there. As you suggested, I ditch the decked system and move the weight to the trailer. I would add a sway bar to the tundra and airbags, stick with the lock and roll hitch the trailer will have and ditch the WDH. Simpler, less expensive, weighs less and easier to accomplish. Thoughts?
 

Dave in AZ

Active member
Here is the 21 Tacoma tow, tundra is almost the same.
6500 max trailer if braked
1000 lb unbraked trailer max
Sway control required over 2000 lb, etc. There are 15 pages of info...
 

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Moyshe Kapoyer

Active member
Thanks for the reply. As I've been digging into this I did make a pivot I'll throw out there. As you suggested, I ditch the decked system and move the weight to the trailer. I would add a sway bar to the tundra and airbags, stick with the lock and roll hitch the trailer will have and ditch the WDH. Simpler, less expensive, weighs less and easier to accomplish. Thoughts?
Sounds good to me, although you might not even need the air bags. If you haven't leveled the truck, you probably have enough "rake" to absorb the sag. If not, you can run one of the chain weight distribution hitches. It probably weighs the same as the airbag system and has more benefits.

Amazon has a TRD sway bar clone for under 200.00. They make a very noticeable difference in your trucks handling.

A-Premium Rear Suspension Red Steel Stabilizer Bar Link Kit, with Sway Bar End Link & Bracket & Mounting Hardware, Compatible with Toyota Tundra 2007-2021, Replace # PTR11-34070, PTR1134070 https://a.co/d/cvncXMu
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
You will be fine with the 5.7 and a 3-4000lb trailer. Your won’t need a WD hitch either. I live in the mountains of BC and deal with lots of big passes. I also own a custom trailer company and set client tow vehicles and trailers up regularly. The 2008+ Tundras are excellent tow vehicles for up to 6-6500 lbs.
 

beef tits

Well-known member
An '08 Tundra should have zero problems towing a 3000 lb trailer if it's set up right. Mainly just needs to be level. If your bed sags, get airbags. Either way, get used to slower driving. Towing ANYTHING sucks, and will consume gas at a much higher rate than you're used to.
 

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