Hey guys!
I've posted several threads getting ideas on how to go about laying the foundation for upgrades in my F-150 so I figured I'd post the finished product. I wanted add an auxiliary fuse block and switches for future upgrades so that when the time came, everything would be clean, neat, and easy to install.
The switches:
I got my switches from the guys over at OTRATTW. I know I wanted to add at least backup lights and reverse lights, so I went ahead and ordered the switches, panel, blanks, and fuse block from them (as they had the best price anywhere on these items). I went with the blue LEDs to match the stock wiring. I already had an aftermarket radio installed, so the empty space underneath was an obvious choice for where to put the fuse block. I had to butcher the stereo install frame pretty badly to get the panel to fit...and currently it's just a friction fit. I wanted to make sure everything was semi-permanent so that I could always add more switches later. I went ahead and wired according to their specs using insulated terminals. I added wiring for six switches, despite only having two at the moment (again, room for expansion). The yellow wire ran to the ignition line I used to turn on my stereo and the black went to ground. This way, the text will turn on when the truck is turned on, and the switches were designed such that the symbol will turn on when the switched is activated.
I purchased trailer brake cable from a local farm and fleet (Theisen's, if you're in Iowa) to run to the engine bay. This really simplified the install and prevented a big ugly wire loom disaster. I used a six conductor wire (14awg) to provide power to the switches and then a 4 conductor (14awg) to provide a return to the engine bay (primarily for relays). I didn't use a double six because some of the wiring may require other strategies. I can always add it later if I really need it. Again, plenty of room for expansion. Conveniently, the 6 and 4 conductor had 4 matched colors, making keeping track of everything a breeze. It was more expensive than just buying wire and labeling it, but it was so much easier and cleaner.
Here's the final installed switch panel with my old Pioneer Premier Head Unit. I've had this thing in 3-4 vehicles and it's my favorite. I won't give this unit up until it is completely destroyed.
There's already an empty hole with a grommet in the passenger side of the engine bay under what I presume are harnesses for the ECU. You can remove the grommet, cut it, and reuse it to route the wires. Pro tip: it helps IMMENSELY to remove the glove compartment and all the panels around the factory fuse block on the passenger side to help with this. A coat hanger helps to route the wires, but be careful! It's easy to send the coat hanger and the cables through various vents of the heating and cooling system. You will NOT be able to see this hole on the inside of the cab, so you will be wiring blind. If you or someone you know has long, skinny, limber limbs...time to buy them a six-pack and call them in. I made do, but it's tricky. It is possible, I promise! Also, a serrated blade, such as those on a leatherman multitool, is instrumental in cutting through the carpet you will find on the other side of that grommeted hole. This step provided me a lot of grief, and cutting another hole may be easier (especially if you have a nice step drill bit). This is how I did it, you may find better ways. My concern was accidentally drilling into my heating and cooling system. Everything turned out great for me.
So here's the fun part: the installation of the fuse block and distribution block. I purchased a 12 circuit with ground block from Blue Sea Systems (from OTRATTW, best price around) and a distribution block from Stinger of Amazon. The stinger had 2x0/1AWG inputs and 4 fused 4/8 AWG outputs. I bought some flat stock steel which I bent on my vice to create the brackets. I removed the battery and very carefully drilled holes and riveted the mounts to the plastic battery holder. I created a T mount for the distribution block and did two separate angle brackets for the fuse block. I found this layout interfered with the factory wiring the least. I also added a piece of angled aluminum laying around to the left side of the fuse block bracket that was only bolted on, so that I could remove it and drill holes to mount relays to it (in an attempt to keep all my cable runs as short as possible). I bought some amp wire from a local stereo shop (to insure I actually got the cable gauge I wanted...hard to tell buying online sometimes). I ran a single lead of 0\1AWG wire (about 18 inches long) from the battery terminal to the distribution block. Then, an ~8" piece from the distribution block to the fuse block. Then, one more piece of 4AWG from the fuse block to a factory grounding point. I went with the biggest AWG wire I could just to be safe. I went with proper copper terminals soldered on to the wire and added shrink wrap just to clean up the install. (Pro tip: to solder terminals, clean with a little bit of flux, heat the terminal with a propane torch, and fill halfway with solder. Then, add a little bit of flux to a fresh cut, clean cable end, and dunk into the still-liquid solder. You'll get awesome, clean links). I routed the 6-conductor wires to the fuse block and installed everything that needed installed. The "return" wire from the switch panel remains zip-tied and tucked up inside the engine bay for now until the accessories are purchased (yay tax returns!).
Future plans that I'll add to this thread:
54" curved LED light bar with rough country mounts
Flush-mounted rear LED backup lights installed in rear bumper (as soon as I fix the rear bumper...may or may not have hit a tree on the trails in PA...oops)
Accessory line to backseat for 12V Fridge (crew cab\plenty of space)
Accessory fuse block in truck bed for lights\outlets\accessories
MAYBE 4 channel amp install (I've got an old Alpine PDX 4.100 that was given to me by a friend)
I'll add to this thread as I install these items. Hopefully my trials and tribulations will help other people.
If you have any questions, or need some pro-tips, please drop me a line. I'll be more than happy to answer any and all questions.
I've posted several threads getting ideas on how to go about laying the foundation for upgrades in my F-150 so I figured I'd post the finished product. I wanted add an auxiliary fuse block and switches for future upgrades so that when the time came, everything would be clean, neat, and easy to install.
The switches:
I got my switches from the guys over at OTRATTW. I know I wanted to add at least backup lights and reverse lights, so I went ahead and ordered the switches, panel, blanks, and fuse block from them (as they had the best price anywhere on these items). I went with the blue LEDs to match the stock wiring. I already had an aftermarket radio installed, so the empty space underneath was an obvious choice for where to put the fuse block. I had to butcher the stereo install frame pretty badly to get the panel to fit...and currently it's just a friction fit. I wanted to make sure everything was semi-permanent so that I could always add more switches later. I went ahead and wired according to their specs using insulated terminals. I added wiring for six switches, despite only having two at the moment (again, room for expansion). The yellow wire ran to the ignition line I used to turn on my stereo and the black went to ground. This way, the text will turn on when the truck is turned on, and the switches were designed such that the symbol will turn on when the switched is activated.
I purchased trailer brake cable from a local farm and fleet (Theisen's, if you're in Iowa) to run to the engine bay. This really simplified the install and prevented a big ugly wire loom disaster. I used a six conductor wire (14awg) to provide power to the switches and then a 4 conductor (14awg) to provide a return to the engine bay (primarily for relays). I didn't use a double six because some of the wiring may require other strategies. I can always add it later if I really need it. Again, plenty of room for expansion. Conveniently, the 6 and 4 conductor had 4 matched colors, making keeping track of everything a breeze. It was more expensive than just buying wire and labeling it, but it was so much easier and cleaner.
Here's the final installed switch panel with my old Pioneer Premier Head Unit. I've had this thing in 3-4 vehicles and it's my favorite. I won't give this unit up until it is completely destroyed.
There's already an empty hole with a grommet in the passenger side of the engine bay under what I presume are harnesses for the ECU. You can remove the grommet, cut it, and reuse it to route the wires. Pro tip: it helps IMMENSELY to remove the glove compartment and all the panels around the factory fuse block on the passenger side to help with this. A coat hanger helps to route the wires, but be careful! It's easy to send the coat hanger and the cables through various vents of the heating and cooling system. You will NOT be able to see this hole on the inside of the cab, so you will be wiring blind. If you or someone you know has long, skinny, limber limbs...time to buy them a six-pack and call them in. I made do, but it's tricky. It is possible, I promise! Also, a serrated blade, such as those on a leatherman multitool, is instrumental in cutting through the carpet you will find on the other side of that grommeted hole. This step provided me a lot of grief, and cutting another hole may be easier (especially if you have a nice step drill bit). This is how I did it, you may find better ways. My concern was accidentally drilling into my heating and cooling system. Everything turned out great for me.
So here's the fun part: the installation of the fuse block and distribution block. I purchased a 12 circuit with ground block from Blue Sea Systems (from OTRATTW, best price around) and a distribution block from Stinger of Amazon. The stinger had 2x0/1AWG inputs and 4 fused 4/8 AWG outputs. I bought some flat stock steel which I bent on my vice to create the brackets. I removed the battery and very carefully drilled holes and riveted the mounts to the plastic battery holder. I created a T mount for the distribution block and did two separate angle brackets for the fuse block. I found this layout interfered with the factory wiring the least. I also added a piece of angled aluminum laying around to the left side of the fuse block bracket that was only bolted on, so that I could remove it and drill holes to mount relays to it (in an attempt to keep all my cable runs as short as possible). I bought some amp wire from a local stereo shop (to insure I actually got the cable gauge I wanted...hard to tell buying online sometimes). I ran a single lead of 0\1AWG wire (about 18 inches long) from the battery terminal to the distribution block. Then, an ~8" piece from the distribution block to the fuse block. Then, one more piece of 4AWG from the fuse block to a factory grounding point. I went with the biggest AWG wire I could just to be safe. I went with proper copper terminals soldered on to the wire and added shrink wrap just to clean up the install. (Pro tip: to solder terminals, clean with a little bit of flux, heat the terminal with a propane torch, and fill halfway with solder. Then, add a little bit of flux to a fresh cut, clean cable end, and dunk into the still-liquid solder. You'll get awesome, clean links). I routed the 6-conductor wires to the fuse block and installed everything that needed installed. The "return" wire from the switch panel remains zip-tied and tucked up inside the engine bay for now until the accessories are purchased (yay tax returns!).
Future plans that I'll add to this thread:
54" curved LED light bar with rough country mounts
Flush-mounted rear LED backup lights installed in rear bumper (as soon as I fix the rear bumper...may or may not have hit a tree on the trails in PA...oops)
Accessory line to backseat for 12V Fridge (crew cab\plenty of space)
Accessory fuse block in truck bed for lights\outlets\accessories
MAYBE 4 channel amp install (I've got an old Alpine PDX 4.100 that was given to me by a friend)
I'll add to this thread as I install these items. Hopefully my trials and tribulations will help other people.
If you have any questions, or need some pro-tips, please drop me a line. I'll be more than happy to answer any and all questions.
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