2011 rr 12v

[michel]

Just found out the 12v socket in the back of the truck shuts off when you turn off the truck.

Does anyone know if there is a solution to keeping that socket alive? Getting ready for a 2 week camping trip, leaving in 2 days and this won't do. I heard something about a jumper could be set but can't find that tread. If anyone knows of a way that would be great.

michel

 

[unseenone]

Keep in mind, your battery will not run that fridge for too long, it will need to be charged via solar, or by running the truck. Traxide system would be worth considering in the long term.

Now, this is the mod for an LR3, but I suspect your solution will be very similar. Here is a link from wiggs article.

Instructions are identical on a RRS, found here.

I didn't find much else. Another alternative might be to run a dedicated wire from the battery to the rear.

I hope this helps, though I realize the RR may be radically different, so do your testing carefully.

 

[michel]

Thanks, that's the post I had seen but couldn't find. I'll take look on the rr to see if this does the trick. I'll also get battery cut off just in case and I carry a booster pack for when I really mess up

 

[Blueboy]

Keep in mind, your battery will not run that fridge for too long, it will need to be charged via solar, or by running the truck.

Have owned a 50qt ARB fridge for years without any battery problems with overnight stays.

If you stay in one place for extended period, ya, it will eventually impact it.

 

[KyleT]

Have owned a 50qt ARB fridge for years without any battery problems with overnight stays.

If you stay in one place for extended period, ya, it will eventually impact it.

The newer rovers are way more sensitive to voltage than d2's d1's Ect....

 

[proper4wd]

The factory battery in the 2012 RR is an AGM group 31. It's what people use as a house battery and is probably around 120ah. Yes - the newer Rovers are sensitive to voltage however this battery is designed to support a 30mA draw for 60+ days on end without causing the vehicle to fault.

With regards to the initial question, if you remove the panel in the right rear cargo area, you will find the rear fuse block. There is a large feed wire directly from the junction block at the battery attached with a 10mm nut. I would tap into that with a simple ring terminal on a moderate gauge wire, 10A inline fuse, direct to the fridge. Should take 15 minutes to do.

 

[SteveMfr]

Asecond battery is really easy to fit into an L322. The wiring to the rear of the vehicle and a battery box are all already there. All you need to do is add a split charge system and + / gnd leads and you are done. With a simple installation such as with a voltage sensing battery controller (on ~13.8V, off ~13.2V see thread below) and pre-made battery leads the installation can be completed in an hour. The rear power socket can be powered directly off the battery (inline fuse).
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic26065.html