Project: Doitall Dodge

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Take that front fender!

Step 1.5. Remove fender from the truck. This is hard when you don't have anyone to help hold the hood! I tried removing the dents from the fender on the truck, but it was about 10X easier with it off. I could also work in the shade on the back deck instead of in the sun!

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I was able to get most of the dents pushed around enough that I felt comfortable using some filler on the low spots. I had a big dent hidden under some old filler on the body line. This took a decent amount of hammer and dolly work with some creative metal shrinking using a wire brush and a wet rag. It didn't come out perfect, but I was pretty happy. When using a hammer and dolly go slow and check your progress with a light coat of paint or blue spray die. I left a lot of cut/weld lines from the fender a touch low since the metal was all moved around from the welding. I think this will work better. I don't think the filler is more than 1/16-1/8" in the worst places. I thought that was pretty good for how many pieces this fender had been cut up into. This fender has two hand made sectioning panels and like 7 seams!

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Here you can see the fender after the hammer and dolly session on the back deck. When I cut this fender I made a mistake in the lower front edge where I bobbed the fender. I didn't leave myself the material I needed to make a flange on the bottom. I had to do it the hard way instead. I cut a new flange out of some 22 gauge with the sheetmetal snips.

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I then tack welded it on in a few spots. I needed a third hand to hold this in position! Once I got it tacked by pushing the edges together with a hammer, I sanded the edges down till they where flush. I then slowly welded up the inside and outside. I also used a copper backer to weld up a few holes in the fender that where left over from the modifications.

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Here is the finished flange. Once I welded it up I carefully sanded it down with a flapper disc. I then primed the inside heavily along with all the seams after a stiff wire brushing. Hopefully this holds off the rust since I won't be painting the backside of the fender.

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After some 35 grit to take off the old paint and primer in the low areas I started skim coating the low areas with body filler. This went pretty well. I like to use about 3 thin coats of filler instead of one coat. I hand sanded all the filler with some 36 grit on a long board. My shoulders are going to be SORE tomorrow!

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The fender is almost ready for primer! This is after 3-4 applications of body filler and sanding in between each one. I like using skim coats instead of heavy coats. The fender was leveled with 36 grit and then brought down with 80 grit. I will have a few touch ups to do with some glaze after the primer goes on, but this fender turned out pretty sweet. Unless you know what your looking at you can't tell it has been sectioned. From 3' away you really can't tell. Doing the fenders this way is a LOT of work for sure! I think it will be worth it in the end though. It will be one of my ultimate stealth modifications. I'm not going for a glass smooth show quality paint job, but it will be nice to have a 99% smooth truck that is all one color!

I really like that I can run anything up to a 40" tire with no lift :)

I need to pick up some 120-150 grit for my sander tomorrow. I will then sand down the entire fender to get ready for primer. I need to spray about 3-5 coats on it and work my way up to some 320 grit. I'm sure I will have to glaze a few low spots before I spray the sealer coat.

Next up on the list is the other front fender. It's not as bad as this one. I might be able to get away with leaving it on the truck. The hood should be pretty simple it just needs to be sanded down with some 320 for primer/sealer. Its the only straight panel on the truck! I also need to take off the cowl vent and have the sand blasted! there is no way I want to hand sand all those grill slats! That will take care of the front clip, then its onto the doors.....

Speaking of doors. I need some new mirrors. These 3-point things kinda suck. I think I am just going to have to bite the bullet and order up some 1992 factory style replacements. These doors don't have those holes though so I need to make a template, weld up the old holes, and make a mount for the factory style mirrors....
 
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Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Well, I couldn't do anymore body stuff......

So I found and fixed the most annoying squeak coming out of the rear of the truck. I did a driving diagnosis and determined that it was the rear U-joint. I first tried greasing it again but that didn't help. I was pretty sure it was the joint so I pulled the driveshaft from the diff.

Yup, it was the U-joint. It was hammered! Even 1410 joints have there limits. No grease being one of them. Two of grease passages to the bearings cups where rusted shut and no grease had gotten to those caps in the long time!

I also grabbed an extra U-joint at the parts house. Its nice insurance to know that a single u-joint fits front or rear on the truck.

I replaced the joint.....no more noise....ah.....silence! Oh wait...its a 12V Cummins with big old military tires :drool:
 

tiresmokindad

New member
Nice job. I follow your instruction, I remove the paint and weld it properly. I think the result is effective. Thanks for your help.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Houston.....we have primer!

Well it feels good to get a body panel in a solid color, even if its just primer. The fender turned out pretty darn good for being cut up into a bunch of pieces. Its NOT perfect, but this isn't suppose to be a show truck. I'll be happy if it looks straight and shinny from 10 feet away :)

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I took it down to 180 grit on a random orbit sander and sprayed 3-4 coats of high build primer after a good cleaning. Don't mind the over spray on the grill shell, its junk anyways. There are a few ripples in the lower fender edge where the sections are, but overall I think it looks ok. I missed two small dents that will need some glaze.

Next up is the other fender
Then hood
Then cowl
Then tailgate
Then bed
Then doors
Then cab ( with a windshield removal just before primer )
Then sealer over the entire thing and a scuff
Then its time for COLOR!

I'm still trying to decide if its worth installing another fuel door for a Ramcharger tank. I figure this would be the right time.....

I also need to figure out something for mirrors. Replacement OE style mirrors are about $75 each. I'm really not liking the 3-point mirrors I have now....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I got the passenger side fender stripped, seams ground, adjusted with the hammer/dolly, cleaned up a bit with a sanding disk, and checkered with 36 grit to get ready for filler. I have a bit of touch up welding to do before the filler tomorrow...I ran out of daylight.
 

a.mus.ed

Explorer
I know my opinion will change once I see the final product, but I gotta say I'm kinda sad to see the "experienced" look go. Regardless of how it looks, I love this truck. Keep it coming!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thank you. Having a one color mostly straight vehicle is new or me too. All my stuff is....errrr....experienced :)

It should look pretty decent when its done. In no means is it going to look perfect. I'm sure it will get beat up again in the following years. This isn't suppose to be a show queen. One of the main reasons for the body work is to keep rust from coming in to the sections, they needed to be prepped primed and painted better. There was surface rust after a year. I want this truck to last a long time.....
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thanks Mopowa.

The passenger side front fender is now almost done in the pound the metal into submission and fill in the low spots with filler stage. Why did I cut these fenders all up to begin with? :)

I should have that fender in primer this weekend along with the hood.

I'm gonna have monster shoulders from all the long board sanding!
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
I know it is all about the body work these days, but I am potentially back shopping for a 1 or 2 gen Cummins. I gotta ask... What is the turning radius like in gen 1 trucks? I assume similar to my dana 60 frontend 92 F350. The 2 gen trucks turn much sharper due to coils, correct? I will be towing a 31' trailer and want the turning ability so as to not have to do 16 point turns!
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
MIne isn't the best right now because of the leveling springs. My truck turns farther one way than the other. On the tight side however, it turns VERY tight. The spring centers are only 32" approximately so the tire has LOTS of room to move around. I am VERY close to binding the yokes in the knuckles on the when turning to the left. That is generally about 38-40 degrees on stock spicer axles. My TALL tires come very close to the springs when turning left, but just miss.

Turning right the right side tire contacts the pitman arm TRE with my 39s. It also doesn't turn as tight turning to the right.

My overall plan is to move the steering box to the 2wd position on the frame, install a longer WJ jeep pitman arm, and run crossover steering to a passenger side steering arm on the D60 knuckle. I will tune the length of the arm to allow me to have full travel right and left so the tires just barely contact the springs. This should be about 40 degrees of steering. I don't think I can get much more than that.

My truck is also a regular cab longbox so its pretty short in general.

On the 2nd and 3rd gen dodge trucks larger tires will contact the control arms much more. The control arms are wider than the old style leaf springs I believe. The 2nd, and more so the 3rd gen, run REALLY high backspacing rims to bring scrub radius WAY down. This helps cram more steering angle into the available space.

My truck turns ok now...and has the potential to be really good even with larger tires.
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
Good to know. Mine (94 gasser stick) will rub at full lock with 285s. I will run 35s on the diesel. I will also be painting the gasser soon so i can get top $ for it if the diesel shows up. A nice coat of "Massey Ferguson" red will be going on. It is so much cheaper to buy industrial paint than automotive here. Automotive paint is about 2-300 per gallon with reducer and industrial is $50 with reducer at $10... An old work truck doesn't need show paint...:sombrero:
 

aires35

Adventurer
I am from Houston, yes that is primer. Reading about your Dodge has kept me up waaaayyy past bedtime. That has got to be one of the coolest trucks ever! Great job!!! Keep posting, very interested in where you take this.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Thanks guys, I will post some more soon. Been busy, but the body work is going slow. I'm making a trip to Idaho for the 4th weekend for 'testing' :) The bed area of the truck has been redone also....
 

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