Increase Traction w/o a rear locker? How?

M

modelbuilder

Guest
If it turns out I cannot fit a rear locker into my rig what are some other options out there to increase traction?

I have a lift, MT's, and a good 4WD system...what else can I do?
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Where/how are you getting hung up? If you have a lift and decent tires I don't know if you can do much more.

With QT-II don't be afraid to use two feet on the pedals to make things "lock up" when you want them to.
 

jcbrandon

Explorer
...options out there to increase traction?...

-limited slip differential
-increased tire size
-reduced tire pressure
-increased weight over drive wheels
-reduced total vehicle weight
-more aggressive tread pattern
-snow or mud chains
-increased axle articulation
-improved throttle modulation to reduce wheelspin
-two-foot driving (as mentioned previously)
-choosing lines more carefully to reduce traction issues
-accepting that sometimes you just don't have enough traction and need to switch to a recovery operation
 

michaelgroves

Explorer
-limited slip differential
-increased tire size
-reduced tire pressure
-increased weight over drive wheels
-reduced total vehicle weight
-more aggressive tread pattern
-snow or mud chains
-increased axle articulation
-improved throttle modulation to reduce wheelspin
-two-foot driving (as mentioned previously)
-choosing lines more carefully to reduce traction issues
-accepting that sometimes you just don't have enough traction and need to switch to a recovery operation

Good list!
Add:
-judicious use of speed and momentum
-use of sand/bridging ladders, waffle boards etc.
-pushing!
 

jim65wagon

TundraBird1
Use the parking brake! It will help both an open rearend and an LSD rearend. Set the brake. when you push on the pedal again it unlocks the pedal and you now have control over how much pressure is applied. Slowly ease onto the gas (right foot) while holding the parking brake down with your left foot. Ease off the parking brake until the vehicle begins to move.

The brake pressure allows some of the torque to transfer from the wheel that is spinning to the wheel that is stationary. It's not like getting a locker but it helps...been there done that....
 

EdoHart

Observer
If it's a manual transmission

I've been able to lock up the rear differential on more than one manual transmission vehicle by popping the clutch once or twice while I have some amount of throttle applied. Press the throttle until you start to spin the tire without traction, then press it a little more, while at the same time, press and release the clutch pedal quickly, within about 1/4 second. Don't depress the clutch completely, just enough to give the drive train some slack. When that sudden torque is applied to the differential it locks up. Once it's locked up, keep on the throttle until you're out of the situation, because the differential could get enough slack to unlock.

Note: I don't recommend this for everyday use because of the sudden application of force to the drive train, but in a pinch, it can mean the difference between getting there or getting pulled out.:)

In my experience, this works with Dana 44 axles and what ever was put in a '72 Mazda RX2 (I wouldn't surprised if that is a Dana 44), and the transaxle of a '78 VW Rabbit.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
You could plumb a separate hand brake for each rear tire. This way you could lock up just the spinning tire in the rear.

A lot of the rockcrawler/rockracer guys do this to help turning when in front wheel drive only.

What kind of vehicle is it? I don't think I have ever seen something that I couldn't get a rear locker in :) Yeah sure, you might have to swap the rear axle to something else, but anything is possible.
 

Photog

Explorer
That video is odd. It makes it sound desireable to send all the torque to the slipping axle. Can't move down the road when all torque is going to the slipping tires. Torque needs to go to the tires that are not slipping (have traction).
 

BiG BoB

Adventurer
I'll echo what others have said about using the brakes, was quite common to fit independant handbrakes on VW Beetles for rallying. Could also do the same thing with line lockers on your normal brakes...

Below is a technique that you may not beleive will work, and it only works in some circumstances:

If you've got a proper manual 4wd, drop it in low range and start the motor in gear. The starter will spin, and move the vehicle, but hasnt got the torque to get one wheel spinning and in some circumstances it will get you moving just enough...

A good example was in some soft sand last week, driving up a steep section the vehicle (105 Landcruiser 1HZ) bogged down, with a front and back wheel spinnging with no lockers. Attempted to reverse, but the wheels still spun, used a low range keystart and it moved it just enough to reverse out once the motor caught.

The technique will not work if you've planted your foot and dug the car in.
 

michaelgroves

Explorer
That video is odd. It makes it sound desireable to send all the torque to the slipping axle. Can't move down the road when all torque is going to the slipping tires. Torque needs to go to the tires that are not slipping (have traction).

Yes, that was a very strange video. Methinks Marketing forgot to speak to Engineering before making the video. The problem with a spinning wheel is that it's not possible to send torque to it!

It also opens by saying: "During normal dry pavement use, nearly 50% of engine power is directed to the rear wheels". I'm pretty sure they meant to say nearly 100%!
 

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