3.8L timing belt change (gen 3)
- Thread starter The Viper
- Start date
Fairly easy to do. Time consuming. You have to tear quite a bit of the engine apart to do it. Unless you've got good tools and experience it will probably take you 10+ hours.
This will be helpful: Pajero Service Manual
Only tool I wished I had was something to tighten the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. I ended up improvising something but it was a huge pain.
I took lots of pics when I did mine but then my phone crapped out and I had to reset it - lost all pics.
Just make sure you do all the maintenance items when you do it because its such a large amount of labor involved.
This will be helpful: Pajero Service Manual
Only tool I wished I had was something to tighten the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. I ended up improvising something but it was a huge pain.
I took lots of pics when I did mine but then my phone crapped out and I had to reset it - lost all pics.
Just make sure you do all the maintenance items when you do it because its such a large amount of labor involved.
BEG
Adventurer
It's time consuming, but not overly complicated.
- Drain coolant
- Remove fan and shroud
- Remove radiator
- Remove accessory drive belts
- Remove accessories and brackets
- Remove main accessory bracket
- Remove crank pulley (need to fab a simple tool to keep it from spinning)
- Remove timing covers
- Reinstall crank bolt into snout with spacers so you can turn the crank
- Set engine to TDC
- Loosen tensioner pulley bolt
- Remove old tensioner and pulley
- Install new timing belt
- Tension drivers side of the belt (tighten crank clockwise and passenger side cam counter clockwise to remove slack)
- Install new tensioner and pulley (don't pull pin)
- Use a non-marring lever (I use a wood wire brush handle) between the pulley and bracket to push pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE into belt until the pin slides in and out easily.
- Tighten the pulley bolt to spec. The pin should still slide in and out easily.
- Turn engine one full cycle (two turns of the crank) and let sit for five minutes.
- Measure protrusion of tensioner piston
- If it's within spec, button everything back up.
If there are other service items in there that need to be done, now is the time to do it. That means the water pump and all front seals. Keep track of where everything goes, label everything, put bolts back into corresponding threaded holes etc. and you should be good.
- Drain coolant
- Remove fan and shroud
- Remove radiator
- Remove accessory drive belts
- Remove accessories and brackets
- Remove main accessory bracket
- Remove crank pulley (need to fab a simple tool to keep it from spinning)
- Remove timing covers
- Reinstall crank bolt into snout with spacers so you can turn the crank
- Set engine to TDC
- Loosen tensioner pulley bolt
- Remove old tensioner and pulley
- Install new timing belt
- Tension drivers side of the belt (tighten crank clockwise and passenger side cam counter clockwise to remove slack)
- Install new tensioner and pulley (don't pull pin)
- Use a non-marring lever (I use a wood wire brush handle) between the pulley and bracket to push pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE into belt until the pin slides in and out easily.
- Tighten the pulley bolt to spec. The pin should still slide in and out easily.
- Turn engine one full cycle (two turns of the crank) and let sit for five minutes.
- Measure protrusion of tensioner piston
- If it's within spec, button everything back up.
If there are other service items in there that need to be done, now is the time to do it. That means the water pump and all front seals. Keep track of where everything goes, label everything, put bolts back into corresponding threaded holes etc. and you should be good.
thanks for the detailed information.
Isnt there a tool for the tensioner that makes things alot easier, i remember reading something about it in another thread?
Also, whats the tool to keep the crank pully from spinning, not necessarily your "fab" one, but is there an actual tool to hold the crank pully in place?
EDIT: and as far as lining up everything for TDC, theres just the 2 cam pullys and the crank pully (lined up via timing marks)?
EDIT2: also is there a tool for keeping the cam pullys from turning when you have them timed up?
Isnt there a tool for the tensioner that makes things alot easier, i remember reading something about it in another thread?
Also, whats the tool to keep the crank pully from spinning, not necessarily your "fab" one, but is there an actual tool to hold the crank pully in place?
EDIT: and as far as lining up everything for TDC, theres just the 2 cam pullys and the crank pully (lined up via timing marks)?
EDIT2: also is there a tool for keeping the cam pullys from turning when you have them timed up?
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BEG
Adventurer
The tool for the tensioner pulley is more trouble than it's worth. It's much easier to use some sort of lever on the rolling surface of the pulley than on the face.
The tool for holding the crank is basically a glorified adjustable pin spanner. You can buy the tool but it's expensive for what it is. If you don't want to use it, you can use the force of the starter and a breaker bar to loosen the nut and then a screwdriver jammed in the flex plate teeth to tighten. I would build the tool.
The cam gear tool is for DOHC engines. Binder clips work well to keep the belt from slipping when your threading it on.
With regard to setting the engine to TDC, there are marks on each gear and on the engine. The valve spring pressure will want to rotate your cam gears away from TDC. I just let it happen and then use the old timing belt and some pliers to rotate it back into place when I'm ready to put the belt on.
The tool for holding the crank is basically a glorified adjustable pin spanner. You can buy the tool but it's expensive for what it is. If you don't want to use it, you can use the force of the starter and a breaker bar to loosen the nut and then a screwdriver jammed in the flex plate teeth to tighten. I would build the tool.
The cam gear tool is for DOHC engines. Binder clips work well to keep the belt from slipping when your threading it on.
With regard to setting the engine to TDC, there are marks on each gear and on the engine. The valve spring pressure will want to rotate your cam gears away from TDC. I just let it happen and then use the old timing belt and some pliers to rotate it back into place when I'm ready to put the belt on.
The best tip was to get binder clips to hold the belt on while you thread it around. I tried to do that part a while without using the clips and it was very frustrating. Then I remembered that I bought clips and it made it much easier.
I made a tool out of a 2x4 and bolts to hold the crank pulley while torqueing it back on. If it weren't for zip ties it would have shattered to pieces. 130ft lb is a lot of torque. If you know someone with a welder it would totally be worth a 6 pack to get him to weld a few bolts on a stick of metal for you.
Ditto on not having to pull radiator. I stuck a plastic piece up against it though to keep it from getting damaged while I worked around.
I made a tool out of a 2x4 and bolts to hold the crank pulley while torqueing it back on. If it weren't for zip ties it would have shattered to pieces. 130ft lb is a lot of torque. If you know someone with a welder it would totally be worth a 6 pack to get him to weld a few bolts on a stick of metal for you.
Ditto on not having to pull radiator. I stuck a plastic piece up against it though to keep it from getting damaged while I worked around.
nckwltn
Explorer
thanks for all the great information guys...
So for binding clips you guys are talking about just regular metal paper binding clips, like these http://www.amazon.com/ACCO-Binder-Clips-Large-72100/dp/B002VD6BLG
@nckwltn, can you explain how that tool works, and where it attaches to
So for binding clips you guys are talking about just regular metal paper binding clips, like these http://www.amazon.com/ACCO-Binder-Clips-Large-72100/dp/B002VD6BLG
@nckwltn, can you explain how that tool works, and where it attaches to
nckwltn
Explorer
those are the binder clips I've used... just make sure they are slightly larger and not tiny ones. They are a big help to keep the belt on the cam gears.
Click the link to the picture, there is another one in my flickr album that shows the whole tool. On the face of the crank pulley, there are two holes that the 3/8ths inch bolts fit into. Then the tool fits fairly flush up against the surface of the crank pulley. With the tool in place, you can now hold the crank pulley while you undo the crank pulley bolt (get a replacement bolt (and washer?) from the dealer or online source.
you might have to flip the tool (and the bolts) depending on trying to loosen or tighten the crank pulley bolt. The long lever will be more apt to bend one way vs the other.
I've also had fairly good results with a chain wrench strapped around the pulley, but it does mark the grooves in the pulley a little
BEG
Adventurer
here is the tool I made.... I've used it several times
That's the tool I made as well. I would add some strips of wood to either side of the handle. They make it more comfortable to hold and add rigidity since the flat bar wants to twist when you're really cranking down on it. This tool works for turning the cams as well.
So you don't have to remove any of the intake?
I think I might try and tackle this job, as im going to be tapped out financially after buying this gen 3 montero, and taking it to the shop is going to be out of the question.
Anyone willing to let me borrow or buy their homemade crank pully tool? I would pay shipping and have PayPal
I think I might try and tackle this job, as im going to be tapped out financially after buying this gen 3 montero, and taking it to the shop is going to be out of the question.
Anyone willing to let me borrow or buy their homemade crank pully tool? I would pay shipping and have PayPal
nckwltn
Explorer
No intake removal necessary... Things might be a little tight around the top of the water pump though.
That metal tool I posted I made for 10 bucks or less... Flat steel from home depot.... Cut off a section and drilled three holes... Slipped in soom 3/8th bolts and your done
OK, seems simple enough... Are the 3/8th bolts held in by anything (welded). Also can you post the measurements?
Also can someone explain how the tensioning of the belt works, specifically?
Is it necessary to replace the actuator, and what does it do?
Edit:I have never done a timing belt ever, so a lot of these things are new to me, I think if I work slowly and ask a lot questions, I can accomplish this
Also can someone explain how the tensioning of the belt works, specifically?
Is it necessary to replace the actuator, and what does it do?
Edit:I have never done a timing belt ever, so a lot of these things are new to me, I think if I work slowly and ask a lot questions, I can accomplish this
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