3.8L timing belt change (gen 3)
- Thread starter The Viper
- Start date
BEG
Adventurer
You can, but since you basically have to do another timing belt job just to get to the seals, it makes the most sense to do them while they're accessible.
nckwltn
Explorer
do them now... it isn't difficult... I use a flat blade screwdriver to puncture the seal and then start pulling at it with pliers and whatever else I can use. The seal can go into the head, there isn't back stop on it... so be careful that you don't push it in too far.... My driver's side went in too far... thankfully I was able to fish it out without having to pull the valve covers.
to set it in place, sometimes a piece of PVC pipe will be the right diameter to give you something to top on to drive the seal into place.
to set it in place, sometimes a piece of PVC pipe will be the right diameter to give you something to top on to drive the seal into place.
honestly im just gonna skip it unless i have to (leaks), my worry would be putting it back in, if there is nothing stopping it from going all the way back how do you know how far to push it in
does anyone know what the crankshaft spacer is for and if its needed, the service manual shows it being used
also can anyone link me to a crankshaft pulley holder tool that works with this engine, depending on the cost it might be easier just to buy one rather then fabricate one
nckwltn
Explorer
I just put it a tad beyond flush with the surrounding surface. I skipped it on our '03 when I did the timing belt in November last year.... had to do the timing again to replace those seals in May. Would have saved myself hours of work by taking care of it when I had front of the engine off
BEG
Adventurer
The manual might give you a dimension, but just a bit past the surface of the head is good. Just take a look at where the old seal sits before you take it out. Honestly, it's more important that the seal sit evenly than how deep it goes. The PVC pipe idea is a good one. Just take the new seal with you to the hardware store and find a pipe that matches its diameter. If you want to get really fancy, find a pipe that slips over the first pipe that can work as a stop against the head so it won't go in too deep.
A crankshaft spacer is for rotating the crank after the crank pulley has been removed. You just need something to go under the crank pulley bolt to prevent it from bottoming out in the crank. You can use any combination of nuts/spacers/bushings etc that fit.
This one should probably work. It's cheaper than the Mitsu specific tools and it's the same idea as the DIY tool in a slicker package: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4754-Universal-Pulley-Holder/dp/B000Q8GVPY
thanks BEG, i went ahead and ordered that tool from the link you provided, i know alot of you guys fabricate your own, but this is more convenient for me, rather then worrying about going to home depot, getting the metal, drilling and cuting.
Quick question for you guys...is the timing belt change near identical on the 3.5L SOHC vs the 3.8l? There are zero videos of timing belt change on the 3.8l but there seem to be a few for the 3.5l SOHC
Quick question for you guys...is the timing belt change near identical on the 3.5L SOHC vs the 3.8l? There are zero videos of timing belt change on the 3.8l but there seem to be a few for the 3.5l SOHC
nckwltn
Explorer
Almost exactly the same. You don't have to unbolt the ac compressor, which is a huge time savings.
cacattack
Observer
Not sure what yellow would indicate. My factory "dumbell style" looking bolt had no yellow on it. My new replacement crank bolt has some redish stuff on it. It looks almost like red loctite possibly... I replaced my old style crank bolt this evening.
One thing i wanted to mention to you when getting stuff together to do the timing belt service, is to go ahead and replace the oil pressure sending sensor since you'll have the alternator off and the sensor sits below it. Good time to go ahead and replace it while there.
One thing i wanted to mention to you when getting stuff together to do the timing belt service, is to go ahead and replace the oil pressure sending sensor since you'll have the alternator off and the sensor sits below it. Good time to go ahead and replace it while there.
nckwltn
Explorer
I'm sure that would work... but better to line up the cams on the marks and then put the belt on.....feels like there has been a few threads on timing belt recently... do a bit of a search and I'm sure you'll find some tips.
FOllow the FSM and you'll be ok
I found that I turn the crank shaft 1/2 to a full tooth counter clock wise, when you have it all together, the crank will turn and the timing mark will line up really good and tension will be on the belt. If you put the crank on the timing mark and try to put the belt on, I've had trouble keeping the marks lined up when the belt goes under tension.
FOllow the FSM and you'll be ok
I found that I turn the crank shaft 1/2 to a full tooth counter clock wise, when you have it all together, the crank will turn and the timing mark will line up really good and tension will be on the belt. If you put the crank on the timing mark and try to put the belt on, I've had trouble keeping the marks lined up when the belt goes under tension.
BEG
Adventurer
You can mark the belts and transfer the marks, but there's a potential for miscounting teeth, not accounting for belt stretch etc. Plus, your timing might be off and you'd never know it (mine was off by a couple teeth the first time I did it). Setting it to TDC lessens the chances for error. Use the binder clips on the cams and don't be afraid to turn the gears individually a degree or two in the opposite direction to get ahead of the teeth on the belt as you thread it on.