Thread: Roof Rack lighting options ???

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Kingston ON
    I also forgot to mention, if you look close at my set up you will notice I have a small 55w light on each end of the lightbar (on a seperate switch). They light up the ditches and sides of the road great.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    I chose the Vision X Xmitter light bars 4" (4 of them), with flood beams for peripheral placement, and at some point I will add this in the center for longer range lookin'. Expensive, but my motto on this truck has always been pay the money, cry once.
    Get out and make nowhere your special somewhere!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Quote Originally Posted by craig333 View Post
    Most of us really have no need for spots. If I need more distance than I get out of my lightforces, I'm driving way too fast
    I don't think my truck even COULD drive that fast.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Hershey, PA
    Thanks for the input everyone. Based on what I read, how often I will use them and the short range I would need, I picked up two sets of the Hella 500FF driving lights. I'll post my impressions one I get them installed.
    Ken Allwine
    "Life is a journey, enjoy it!"

    I have sadly sold my JK to get an F-150.

    “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Memphis, TN
    To cut down on hood glare, I have heard of some people running black electric tape at the bottom/corners of the lenses to block off light shining.
    87 4runner SAS'd. 2.28 and 4.7 Doubler. Elocker, Longfields, HiSteer, and OME Rears up Front with 14" Bilsteins. Detroit and Chevy 63" springs rear. 5.29. Superwinch EP 9.0. Hella 500s.
    05 Tacoma AC TRD-OR 6 Speed. Impulse Red Peal (Maroon)
    Old Man Emu 886 (W/Dakar+AAL). Pro Comp XM/T. ARE Topper. ARB Front Bumper. Warn M8000. 7" Kragen HIDs. -Camping/Exploration Rig

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Georgia, USA
    Quote Originally Posted by R_Lefebvre View Post
    I think what many of us who travel on tight trails need is actually Worklights, but those aren't "cool" so...
    Ha! Too right.
    Luckily I've never worried about the coolness factor so just use tractor floods. They throw light far enough for the speeds I drive. They are cheap (around $30) so if they get broken it's not a big loss. They are cheap so not too likely to get stolen. After all, they aren't cool, why steal them?

    Quote Originally Posted by 87FoRunner View Post
    To cut down on hood glare, I have heard of some people running black electric tape at the bottom/corners of the lenses to block off light shining.
    These were popular in the 70's, but I don't see them much anymore. Not cool I guess.
    Last edited by Antichrist; 02-22-2010 at 11:51 PM.
    Tom Rowe

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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Missouri Ozarks Überland Basecamp
    I run tractor work lights on the both sides of my Jeep rack and they work great.

    Last edited by UNI; 02-23-2010 at 01:09 AM.
    "The farther one gets into the wilderness, the greater is the attraction of its lonely freedom" Theodore Roosevelt

    ORCC Off Road Camping Club - Explore The Ozarks Midwest Region

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  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    how are people running the wires to the lights on roof?
    2005 NISMO CC 4X4-ICON 2.5 coilovers,AC 3 leaf pack,Bilstein shocks, 3" Body lift, Titan front differential, Pathfinder half shafts, 305/70R16, American Outlaw Colt wheels, KMA rear bumper, Black Widow Off Road hi-lift mount, Home made utilitrac spare tire mount, Airflow snorkel, Shrockworks sliders and skids

  9. #19
    I am running a pair of 100W IPF 968s on the roof basket. Here are the pics from the driver's seat:
    Low Beams:

    High Beams:

    High with IPFs:

    Notice the lack of glare on the hood. The lights sit just behind the sunroof.

    I ran the wires up the A-Pillar behind the weather striping to the center of the the rear driver-side door.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    The Nanny State
    If 200' is the outer limit of your lighting needs I'm wondering why bother to put them on the roof at all? I'm assuming that the 200' requirement is due to trees. The whole point of a high mounting is to get the light further out ahead of you. I'd think that for 200' that you could easily do that with a top of front bumper location and avoid smacking the lights (be they cheap or not) with tree limbs (not to mention not adding them to your frontal area).

    For up high I've found that the so-called "Euro" or Driving" beam is a better option than the pencil beam. The range is very close, but the Euro/Driving beam has much more lateral light distribution.

    My personal RoT: The closer the light is intended to illuminate, the lower it gets mounted.
    semi self-banned

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