Wildernest Spare Parts Info

[Nonprophet]

For those fellow Wildernest owners (or future owners) who are in need of some replacment parts, I've done quite a bit of research (I'm restoring a used '96 Wildernest for a Tacoma x-cab) and I've got some info on spare parts:

1. Bulb seal. This is probably one of the first parts to go as it is pretty fragile. If your lid doesn't seal properly when you close it, water will get in and a wet tent stored wet equals a rotten/dead tent! The best match to the original bulb seal from Wildernest that I've been able to find is from Uni-Grip (http://www.uni-grip.com/Bulb_1.html) and it's their bulb seal #PTL-124. Unlike a lot of manufacturers, they'll actually sell you less than 250' (!) For the 77" long version like I have that means you need 25' to replace the seal. Uni-grip only charges $1.25 a foot--pretty reasonable!

2. Hardware. I live in the PNW, so I'm replacing all the hardware (screws, hinges, latches, etc.) with stainless steel. The screws that hold the tent and headliner etc, are pretty easy to find at your local hardware. The hinges (I have 5 on mine) are National 4" with 1/4" rounded corners. The national 4" hinges are all 4 hole/screw which matches what I have now. Seeing as there is only one set of holes drilled to mount my hinges, I'm assuming that they are orginal. The replacement hinge in stainless steel is National part# V514rc 4x4 SS hinge. My local hardware store was able to order them for me for $12 ea. with no shipping charges.

3. Locking t-handle. When I bought mine the owner couldn't find the key. A locksmith wanted $25 to make one, but a local canopy store sells new Snugtop locking t-handles with 2 keys for only $18. My t-handle was fastened with pop rivots, so I had to drill those out and widen the holes a little to get the new Snugtop handles installed. I used stainless steel screws and lockwashers.

4. Rear door weatherseal. Mine came with this big-ass foam rubber seal that made it hard to engage the latches without moving the whole camper back an inch or so on the rails. It was kind of beat up anyway, and I wanted to replace it. I started looking around for the stock replacement (and found it at Uni-Grip) but it's just too darn big! If you order the replacement bulb seal above, add another 5' or so to your oder as the bulb seal works just great on the rear glass/door!

If it's of any help to anyone, I have an original owner's manual that came with my new/used one--and I'd be happy to scan it and post it here as a PDF file. Also, I remember a thread where someone was missing the 2 v-shaped aluminum brakets for the upper ventilation windows--again mine is complete and I'd be happy to take pics so other could fabricate a replacement set for themselves.

Mine also came with the kitchen organizer, bedding and clothes hammock, and the tailgate curtain/window, and I'd be happy to post pics and specs on those items too if it would be helpful. I also have the 2 original outrigger poles and the 3 fiberglass stays.

I just love these campers, and ever since I sold mine back in '95 I've been wanting a new one--imagine my suprise when I found one in great shape that fits my Tacoma right here in Eugene, OR where I live!! The weather is supposed to be gorgeous this weekend, so I'm off for some Steelheadin', I'll take some pics of my rig and 'Nest and post them when I get back!


NP

 

[paulj]

On my Wildernest, the door lock had an inside handle, secured to the square shaft with a set screw. I screwed an aluminum wear strip on the edge of the lower tailgate, and remounted this inside handle so engaged the wear strip when the lock was closed. Thus I locked the upper tailgate to the lower one.

The only problem with this arrangement was that the inside handle is cast from a cheap pot metal, and eventually breaks. But it is easy to buy a replacement at any rv/canopy place. In 18 years this handle has broken twice.

I also, at one time, screwed a padlock hasp to the pickup bed and tailgate, so it possible to lock that closed.

When one of the hinges on the Wildernest rusted through, I tried to remove it, but couldn't get several of the screws out. Replacing this hinges with stainless steel ones before anything rusts or seizes would be a good idea.

My fiberglass rods did not have protective metal ends (mine was a 1988 model), but I never had problems with splitting.

I wish I had put more effort into replacing the bulb seal. However, in Seattle winters, condensation inside the lid was a more of a problem than leakage past the seal.

paulj

 

[Nonprophet]

Re: spare parts

Dave,

On my rear window the glass does not go all the way into the lower extrusion. I did have to drill through both layers of the lower extrusion to pass stainless screw all the way through from the inside--the Snugtop t-handle has threaded posts built into the handle housing, and you have to widen the holes a little to allow for the threaded posts, and then use SS screws washers, and lock washers attached from the inside threaded into the posts. I'll try and take a few pics so you can see what I mean.

On the stays, I should have clarified that there are 2 stays with metal tips for the tent, and one fiberglass rod for the rear window/screen. Mine seem to be in good shape.

On the gelcoat, I've never had much luck in matching gelcoat colors on boats--it looks easy but it never is, at least not for me! Mine is a little dirty but still in pretty good shape as it was stored in a garage--still there are some rust stains from the hinges and the finish is a little dull. I'm going to put my DA sander on it with a buffing pad and see if I can't buff it out. If I'm still not happy with that, I'll probably just get a quart of self-leveling (i.e. no brush marks) fiberglass paint from West Marine and just repaint it white. My Taco is white too, so it would be nice if the colors were close.......

Paul,

Yep the bulb seal is important, but I have the same problem with condensation--my matress, cover, curtains, etc get and stay damp if stored in the lid this time of year. I can just take them out and store them, but I really don't want the tent to get wet/damp either, and being able to just take off without a lot of prep time is one of the great things about a "Nest. So, I'm thinking that I'm going to Home Depot and pick up some rubber-backed indoor/outdoor carpeting and glue that down under the mattress (the underside of the roof/lid) My thought is that condensation forms on smooth surfaces like glass, fiberglass, etc. when the outside temperatures are warmer/cooler than the inside temperatures. I think the rubber-backed carpeting will act like an insulator (kind of like a neoprene/foam "coolie cup" for you beer, and that should stop or at least reduce the condensation. It should also make it a bit more comfortable moving around on the lid/mattress.


NP

 

[erod]

Great thread! Helpful information...I love my wildernest but breaking parts is always a concern due to limited availability. I would love to see some pics of any members wildernests (or flip-pacs) popped with their camp set up. I don't have the kitchen organizer or the clothes hammock but would love to see them in action! I have camped a bunch this winter in ID in mine and it worked great...only problem is when you have to put it down all the moisture, snow etc. is caught up inside and drying it out can be an issue, especially when it snow numerous days in a row! Spring is here though and the sun is shining so I have been able to camp twice this week! Anyway, been away from the forum for a while so i was stoked to see this thread. Cheers

 

[grambo71]

Great Info!

Thanks for the useful information. I've had an '89 'nest for three years and love it. Some of my hinges are rusted out- so I'm going to replace them with the stainless steel ones as described by Nonprophet above. Concerning the moisture buildup below the mattress or leaking in past the bulb seal, one solution I use is to place a plastic fitted sheet on the underside of the mattress so that it wraps around the top/corners. It keeps the mattress dry. I've decided to get rid of the curtains, as I never really used them anyway.

Nonprophet- Did you also replace the hex screws? Did you apply silicone or anything when replacing the hinges/screws? I'm assuming that you used the same drilled holes. Not that Reno gets nearly as much precip as Eugene. Ahhhh, the beautiful McKenzie! Anyhow, spring is here and happy nesting folks!
-g

 

[erod]

Hey everyone...how bout' some pics? I have been slacking too and have a bunch of new ones to get up as well...this thread has been very helpful...nonprophet, could you post the owners manual pdf? I would love to check it out...also some pics of your improvements would be awesome. I am getting ready to restore some aspects of mine this summer...once it stops snowing this spring...Cheers!

 

[erod]

One other thing...I got the back door with my WN, anyone have photos or suggestions of how to rig this thing up? Velcrow seems logical to me but...thanks again.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yes, the zipper door will have a strip of velcro sewn on it. When it was new the 'Nest would have come with a roll of the adhesive-backed fuzzy side that mates with it. The fabric door itself should have the hook part and so you need to stick on the fuzzy part on the 'Nest and along the edges of the tailgate. There is no way to really buy just the fuzzy part, so just go to the hardware store and buy a roll of velcro and you'll be left with half of it. I get the 25' rolls, does anyone need about 35' of the hook side? I'll snap some photos tomorrow, if that would help.

 

[erod]

Dave, thanks for the info, if you get a chance could you post a pic or two. Thanks again!

 

[DaveInDenver]

Got a few snapped. Sorry about the quality, my truck is in-op at the moment, in the middle of the engine rebuild. Crossing fingers, the target date for restart is 5/1 and hopefully it's fully running not long after...

Anyway, one photo shows where I routed the fuzzy part of the velcro. This runs along the inside of the back window and along the tab at the edge of the tailgate. There is a closer detail (yes, my tabs are beat silly). The final interior shot is the hook part of the velcro on the door itself. Added a shot of the door in place. Sorry about the watermarks, but I needed to add something to my photos, I've noticed my 'Nest shots on other websites and I don't remember anyone asking me to use them...

 

[erod]

Dave, awesome pics. I really like your set up...thanks a lot for the photos...Good luck with the rebuild and looking forward to more pics in the future. Cheers!

 

[Nonprophet]

Finally got some pics....

Many thanks to those who helped with my Yakima installation! :victory:

I finally got around to taking some pics--see below.

The current setup works just fine for carrying my canoe--but I'm not real happy with the looks or limited functionality by having the crossbars so short on the passenger side (in order to leave enough space between the crossbar ends and the Wildernest canopy windows when the top is open).

I came up with a good solution though. I took my racks to a local welder, and I'm having him weld threaded bosses/inserts into the ends of the Yakima crossboars on the passenger side. Then I bought 1 1/4 galvi pipe, and had him cut two 8" pieces (to match the overhang of the crossbars on the driver's side). He's going to weld some threaded stainless stock to the ends of the "extenders", and then paint everything black. That way, when I'm using the rack with the Wildernest closed I just screw in the "extenders", and it all looks even (and I can still carry a few sheets of 4x8 plywood up there like I used to). When I need to open the WN top, all I do is unscrew the "extenders" and I'm good to go! Total cost: $30. As soon as I get the extenders fabbed and installed, I'll take some pics if anyone is interested.......

Also, forgot to mention that if you replace your bulb seal with the piece I mentioned at the start of this thread, add another 5' or so to your order as the seal works just great on the rear window/tailgate seal of the WN.



Camp on!!


NP

 

[Nonprophet]

Nonprophet- Did you also replace the hex screws? Did you apply silicone or anything when replacing the hinges/screws? I'm assuming that you used the same drilled holes. Not that Reno gets nearly as much precip as Eugene. Ahhhh, the beautiful McKenzie! Anyhow, spring is here and happy nesting folks!
-g

Grambo,

My new hinges haven't arrived yet! They sent the wrong one's the first time. I must admit that now that I've looked a little closer at the hinges (you have to loosed them when you replace the bulb seal) some of the screws/nuts on the lower halves of the hinges (the front and very rear hinges) look like they will be a big PITA to get to. I'm a big believer in the "if it ain't broke--don't fix it" mantra, and so I'm going to leave the hinges alone for the time being. I did mask them and paint them with a silver Rustoleum, and that should work for awhile.

If you do swap your hinges, DEFINITELY silicone the heck out of both the hinges, and the screws/holes as they would certainly be a point of water entry......



NP

 

[erod]

NP, nice work on the rack...looks sweet. good idea with the extended bars too...any pics of your camp set up? i would love to see the clothes/gear hammock and the kitchen organizer. also, any luck with the owners manual pdf? it would be cool to check that out too. thanks again in advance and keep the pics coming. cheers!

 

[Nonprophet]

New t-handle install.....

Good to see you post!

A couple of questions (or comments).

The T-handle, I get them from Suburban Topper here in Denver, they usually get about $10 since I pay cash and tell them I don't need a receipt. Anyway, I just rivet them on, but my holes are getting wallowed out and have been trying to come up with a better way to attach a handle. You say you drilled out the holes and I can dig that, but I'm trying to picture it. Did you drill all the way through? The flip-up door design may have changed on the later models (there was about a year at the end of production that they did change a lot of stuff). Mine is 1992 production and the back door on this one is similar to others I've owned and seen in that if you were to try to drill through, you'd hit the back window glass. I found that out the hard way on my first 'Nest, I shattered the glass drilling out a rivet. So I'd just say that WilderNests are like any other older topper in that they used whatever parts they could find and there are difference in all of them.

Hey Dave,

I finally got around to taking some pics of my WN tailgate lock for ya--see attached. I took a side shot of the profile of my lower extrusion so you can see if it's similar to mine. Since installation the new t-handle has been working great!!


NP