XJ roof racks

Explorer 1

Explorer 1
My rack.............

My rack was designed to land a helicopter on.....:sombrero::elkgrin::victory:

Or in my case 400 + lbs. It's made of aluminum.

March2007086.jpg


Thanks,

Fred
Explorer 1
 
Really!? TEN gutter mounts per side!?

If I had the opportunity to do it again- I would go with aluminum too- and I'd probably stop at 5 mounts per side :p.

My Defender rack has been very functional- but I'm very disappointed in it's lack of resistance to rust. The first two I had (both replaced by Defender) began rusting in less than 2 months. At this point- I figure I'll just keep it until it dies and then go with an aluminum rack... but the ones I have seen are NOT cheap.
 
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DrMoab

Explorer
I bet that is the first XJ with more structural support in the roof than it has in the uni-body rails. LOL.

I actually run two racks. One is a POS warrior rack and the other is a cut down wilderness that I use to have in front of my RTT before it was moved to the trailer.

4659907519_1084a98d77_b.jpg
 

XXXpedition

Explorer
Really!? TEN gutter mounts per side!?
i like that idea. and it is important if you put weight on it and don't have it just for show.
over thousands of miles of corrugated roads in Oz my roofrack broke through the gutter 3 times. - better distribute that weight!

pics as asked for (no real good ones but with all of them you'll get an idea):
IMG_1060.JPG
IMG_9705.JPG

IMG_6078.JPG


and that's how i modified my mounts later to prevent them from coming through the roof:
IMG_9218.JPG


oh, by the way:
if you mount your rack to the stock rails, they will pull out if you carry weight. those rails are screwed into rubber-thingies that will pull through the roof under shaking motion (off-road).
the corrugating is what kills it... :)
 
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stomperxj

Explorer
Here's a pic of my gutter mounts i made. 4 mounts total. My rack is a bit heavy cuz i made it from 3/4" pipe. Next one will be made from aluminum or at the very least thi wall tub or conduit...

rack5.jpg

sm-00011.jpg
 

Explorer 1

Explorer 1
"Not to re-invent the wheel"

"i like that idea. and it is important if you put weight on it and don't have it just for show.
over thousands of miles of corrugated roads in Oz my roofrack broke through the gutter 3 times. - better distribute that weight!"


Sven,

It was your experiences down under that inspired my roof rack with so many supports!

Each roof bracket matched a cross rail so the weight is evenly distributed across the entire roof rail surface. Carrying a extra spare (at that time 33x12.50) two tool chest, sand/rock ladders, 10 gallons of gas, folding table and whatever else I want to bring along, then add my 200 lbs body standing on top loading everything, I never has even a crack in the 24 gauge uni-body roof.

"I bet that is the first XJ with more structural support in the roof than it has in the uni-body rails. LOL."

All kidding aside, you are proably right in that it does add some structural support.............:ylsmoke:

Thanks

Fred
Explorer 1
 

shogun

Adventurer
i like that idea. and it is important if you put weight on it and don't have it just for show.
over thousands of miles of corrugated roads in Oz my roofrack broke through the gutter 3 times. - better distribute that weight!

oh, by the way:
if you mount your rack to the stock rails, they will pull out if you carry weight. those rails are screwed into rubber-thingies that will pull through the roof under shaking motion (off-road).
the corrugating is what kills it... :)

Both good points. The factory rack is rated at something like 150#, and thats if it is well distributed. It just bolts to sheet metal.

For real structural strength you need to distribute the given load over the widest area available. Each gutter mount will carry a portion of the load. If we assume (!) the load is perfectly distributed over the length of the rack, then each gutter mount will carry an equal share of the load. The more mounts the lower the individual load. Carrying that concept to its logical conclusion, the optimum rack mount would be a continuous piece of bar that runs the entire length of the rack/gutter.

Boxing the rack and mount will also increase the structural rigidity of the roof area. Removing the headliner and trim will give a quick lesson in just how light this area is to begin with.
 

DBH

New member
I am running a cargo master, and I am thinking about adding an additional gutter mount to each side.

Thanks for the helpful info on this thread hijack:ylsmoke:
 

XXXpedition

Explorer
Carrying that concept to its logical conclusion, the optimum rack mount would be a continuous piece of bar that runs the entire length of the rack/gutter.
that's exactly what i would do if i were to redo it again...
but then you wouldn't need ten mounts. the distribution is through the continuous piece.

i have seen that continuous piece on land rovers...
 
what does everybody feel a good size and wall thickness would be when building a tubular rack from steel?

i think 1" ore 7/8 if it's made (i don't have experience purchasing raw materials) is a good diameter. it's perfect for fitting just inside the hooks of ratchet straps and bungee-web hooks.
 

Desert Dan

Explorer
I have had a ConFer rack in the past on a Jeep and have a 4' x 5' Defender Rack on my H3 and have been happy with both of those.

You get some wind noise when the rack is empty but it could be reduced with a faring on the front etc.
 

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