'10 Tundra CrewMax

zidaro

Explorer
Second set with the same tread? That is saying something :)

Love these things!
Hella good traction in the Winter, and they've held up really well for the past few years for me on the highways and desert trails. Seem to be pretty durable. My 35's still have LOTS of life in them, but jumping up a size with the new suspension.
This set i am not balancing. Running 10oz of 0.3oz Ceramic BB's as dynamic balancers. Ive been running them in my 08 4runner with Beadlocks/33's for a year and a half and there working out great so far. Run them on my crawler with deadlocks/37 Pitbulls and they've been great there too. It isn't a perfect balance. It takes the beads a couple minutes (less really) to distribute, but tire wear seems to not be a factor. Never a shake, but sometimes a light vibration at speed. I run them at 70-80mph consistently and no issues.
We shall see, i change my mind on everything regularly- always open :)
 

zidaro

Explorer
got to use some of my cool tools today. Plasma'd off the rear OEM bump bracket to make way for the hydro.

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Once that was cleaned up (read: lots of grinding), i fit up a set of coil bucket gussets from Mazzulla Offroad and tacked them in. Once i got the UCA bolt to slide freely i burned them in fully. Came out nice, but was quite the PITA to get it all lined up and freed.

this shot is them tacked in place with the gusset plates added in.

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Total Chaos Cam Tab Gussets all burned in, ready for paint.

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front end mods are almost complete, then the easy part of bolting in the LT suspension.
 

zidaro

Explorer
Commanded my fabricator to deliver a load of parts to my local powdercoating shop ;) Only the best and $$ is no object on my builds.

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Redline

Likes to Drive and Ride
Great stuff.

Appreciate the tire info. I have never used balancing beads, but I understand how and why they work and think they are cool. Centramatic balancers work similarly, and I have used them for years on domestic HD pickups.
 

zidaro

Explorer
Great stuff.

Appreciate the tire info. I have never used balancing beads, but I understand how and why they work and think they are cool. Centramatic balancers work similarly, and I have used them for years on domestic HD pickups.

Ditto, still learning and not completely sold on them. sometimes it amazes me how completely smooth its driving, other times i get frustrated at the minimal vibrations. BUT, the huge payoff is never having to rebalance or worry about it when you chunk a tire, it spins on a rim aired down, or just mounting tires (beadlocks making home tire swaps easy.). So there it really makes sense.

The Ceramic Airsoft BB's are just the super cheap version or Dynabeads (some might say the same version) and the Centramatics are the Uber Delux version
 

zidaro

Explorer
Got some sweet Flu Bug last few days, so progress was nill.

Drivers and passengers front is all FAB finished. All gussets, tabs, and secondary hoop welded and painted. Quite the process of mock, fit, test, redo, redo, tack, refit, burn in!
Still will have to fit and fab up the Bumpstop and limit strap mounts, but thats for a later date.
Gotta get the suspension on, dialed in and aligned. Want everything to be in its permanent place before i can slip that bump stop in to one tight space between the bypass and CV!

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Got my CVs back from CVJ Remanufacturing! Look gorgeous, fitted up with my rebuilt OEM CVs, new silicone outer high angle boot, new OEM inner boot, Camburg LT 4340 shafts.

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tyv12

Adventurer
Wow this thing is gonna be sick, as I see this long travel come together all I can think is...
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

zidaro

Explorer
spent some time on my rear!
firmed her up with a sledgehammer modded Ruffstuff Diff Armor plate made for a Toy 8" housing. Bought it awhile ago fro my Runner, but never got around to welding it on. Fit up pretty nice and some good added protection if backing up into a bed of big pebbles.
Also set the axle on the spring pads, bolted them down to the plates and jacked the truck up weighting the springs, centered them, and adjusted the pinion angle to split/match the driveshaft angle at the centershaft, and then tacked on the spring pads. Measured up again, tore it all down and burned in the pads fully.

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Next on my list was to mock up the Rear upper shock mount. I contacted Total Chaos about purchasing a mount from them after having lost my patience with Camburg. I was on a waiting list for a couple months (or more) for a set of their underbed rear mounts. Cancelled that order and called TC!
Total Chaos rocks!! I explained my desire to mount the shocks facing forward but wanting to use their mounts form their under bed bypass kit they offer. They willingly offered to sell me only the shock mounts from their kit, and honestly advised they could not guarantee they would work. I bit and ordered them.

Here they are in place. I tacked them in once i determined they fit, the shock bodies fit, and i could access the supper shock bolt without issue. I placed them as far forward as the bed mounts would allow, and as far up as possible with still allowing ~1/4" space from bottom of bed. Shock angle is less than if i oriented them in rearward mount fashion as they were designed. Still must cycle the spring and determine lower mount position for optimal travel before i fully commit. As of now, i can pull out and move them to the rear if this doesn't work.

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still have a lot more to do back here. Shock mounts, limit straps, airbag mounts. More on the list, but those items will have to be tackled in some type of phase 2/3

Got antsy after playing with my rear, so i moved back to the front for a bit. Concentrated on passenger side.
Bolted the bypass, upper and lower arms, and CV in. Cycled the suspension and spun the CV for binding. set up the limit strap about 1" from full droop where the CV spun freely, allowing for ~1/2 of strap stretch. Then slapped everything back on and welded in the rezi. mounts. PSGR side done.

pics at full droop.
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until........
i noticed my damn axle shaft was hitting the coilspring at full droop when the wheel turns left in any way!! CRAP!!!!!!

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sun was down, it was getting cold. I thought in every direction what on earth could be the issue. I adjusted to the max my cam bolts-- nope, barely a difference. Tired to imagine putting in spacers wrong. nope. etc..... called its a night after looking at everything a few hundred times, and drinking a couple beers to wallow in my misery.

THEN... i woke form a deep sleep at some ridiculous hour knowing what the problem was! I have a dang diff drop kit on. Those spacers pivot the diff. down and forward, bringing the CV shaft toward the coil spring. Praise Whoever!!
At work now, can't test my theory till I'm off.
What say you? am i going to toast the good life, or burn my truck to the ground?
 
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Adventurous

Explorer
Got antsy after playing with my rear, so i moved back to the front for a bit.

:Wow1:

I'm also struggling to think of what else could play a role in the CV axle getting too close to the coil spring. If you pull the diff drop out, I assume you'll have to relocate the limit straps? Seems like a reasonable place to start if you've already eliminated the cam tabs.
 

zidaro

Explorer
:Wow1:

I'm also struggling to think of what else could play a role in the CV axle getting too close to the coil spring. If you pull the diff drop out, I assume you'll have to relocate the limit straps? Seems like a reasonable place to start if you've already eliminated the cam tabs.

I can't think of, or see any other obstacles.
I haven't done anything wild and crazy off-road, or had any front end damage- frame is straight
Camburg suspension is a kit, made to run 4wd shafts, I'm running their shafts.
The LCAs and UCAs are installed correctly with all spacers in correct location
the coil springs are a 2.5" coiler spec Eibach. ICON is now running a 3.0, so there should be some room in there.
I have a Diff Drop, and was reminded awhile ago that a diff drop is not used. I forgot that lil tidbit! Ding ding- this is the only thing i can think of. hope its my huckleberry
 

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