A few pictures...
Panamericruiser - An Overland Journey through the Americas
- Thread starter Christian P.
- Start date
All right, I think it is time for a proper update - from the very laid back beach of Zipolite, where we are recuperating from a good NYE party last night!
This trip down to Panama is sort of a recognition mission for some future projects - so it is much quicker that I would ideally like it to be.
Nonetheless, there are already some highlights and observations useful for this great community!
First off, about Mexico. Forget everything you've read/heard. Now is the time to come to Mexico. The bad publicity makes it even better - more affordable and more empty beaches. We have not had any problem anywhere down the coast and so far discussions with other travelers are confirming this - yes there are some problems/crimes but the risks for us are not much higher that they have been in the past.
Reading recent postings on this forum have had me worried before entering - again with no reasons. The Federales and military are around and we have been searched a couple times at some checkpoints. But they were just doing their jobs, they were very polite and never asked for anything. The Mexicans are as usual very friendly and helpful.
We even broke the number 1 rule several time - we drove at night on many occasions and while I would not encourage it and would be very careful not to end up in the wrong neighborhood if you do so, we manage to survive.
So my point is - don't worry about Mexico. Just come, be careful, use common sense and the chances that something bad happen are not any greater than driving in L.A or Chicago.
This trip down to Panama is sort of a recognition mission for some future projects - so it is much quicker that I would ideally like it to be.
Nonetheless, there are already some highlights and observations useful for this great community!
First off, about Mexico. Forget everything you've read/heard. Now is the time to come to Mexico. The bad publicity makes it even better - more affordable and more empty beaches. We have not had any problem anywhere down the coast and so far discussions with other travelers are confirming this - yes there are some problems/crimes but the risks for us are not much higher that they have been in the past.
Reading recent postings on this forum have had me worried before entering - again with no reasons. The Federales and military are around and we have been searched a couple times at some checkpoints. But they were just doing their jobs, they were very polite and never asked for anything. The Mexicans are as usual very friendly and helpful.
We even broke the number 1 rule several time - we drove at night on many occasions and while I would not encourage it and would be very careful not to end up in the wrong neighborhood if you do so, we manage to survive.
So my point is - don't worry about Mexico. Just come, be careful, use common sense and the chances that something bad happen are not any greater than driving in L.A or Chicago.
A second observation about Mexico - if Mexico is your final destination, buy American. There are so many American made trucks and van here, I would made it my first choice. There are also a lot of Nissan (mostly older generations). There are a few Toyota but no Land Cruiser. And we have not seen one single Defender.
So if you are considering coming to Mexico for a surf trip, get a F250 or E250 and you will be happy.
So if you are considering coming to Mexico for a surf trip, get a F250 or E250 and you will be happy.
The plan is for my friend Shaun to stay in Panama for several months so we decided to bring his motorcycle along.
I have never used one of these hitch hauler type of thing before but we decided to give it a try. I must say I am pretty surprised/pleased so far.
Obviously the stronger springs and rear bumper on the Land Cruiser really helps. We have left the bike on the hitch on all the major freeways but when we hit the coast a couple days we started riding the KTM.
Riding this supermoto along the coast was like being in heaven.
The twisty road is in perfect condition.
Imagine highway 1 along the California coast with no traffic, no speed limit, just some speedbumps here and there - perfect to slow the big trucks when needed...
Furthermore, having the luxury of a "support" vehicle means that you can ride light, with no luggage, tank bag or anything. Pure paradise.
Now I need one.
I have never used one of these hitch hauler type of thing before but we decided to give it a try. I must say I am pretty surprised/pleased so far.
Obviously the stronger springs and rear bumper on the Land Cruiser really helps. We have left the bike on the hitch on all the major freeways but when we hit the coast a couple days we started riding the KTM.
Riding this supermoto along the coast was like being in heaven.
The twisty road is in perfect condition.
Imagine highway 1 along the California coast with no traffic, no speed limit, just some speedbumps here and there - perfect to slow the big trucks when needed...
Furthermore, having the luxury of a "support" vehicle means that you can ride light, with no luggage, tank bag or anything. Pure paradise.
Now I need one.
98roamer
Explorer
I thought the tire were suppose to be lowered into the rack slot by removing one or two of the large bolts. Once the tire is lowered you reinstall the bolt which then secures the bike. It the disk brakes get in the way?
I think that is the idea but it does not work with the tires on the Supermotard, the wheels/tires are too wide.
Overlanders/Travelers that we have met on the road in Mexico so far and their vehicles:
-Nissan XTerra (Dave and Ann)
-Nissan Patrol
-2 x 1970 something VW Van
-Toyota HZJ78
-A couple older 1980s Dodge Van Camper conversion.
-Ford F250 dually and huge truck camper from Austria (stopped on the side of the road, I think because of a flat tire)
-3 Cyclists
-2 guys on BMW F650GS
-2 guys on BMW R1100GS and KLR650
-Older (1980s) Mercedes Sprinter Westfalia with French plates
-VW Westfalia 1986 from Quebec
-2 Eurovan from Oregon
-Several huge RVs and Fifth wheel/truck combo - most of them retired people from Canada.
-Dodge Dakota and pop-up camper (Palomino?)
-Ford Transit from Germany
-Honda Africa Twin
That is just in less than 5 days.
It is nice to see that there are still plenty of people traveling around Mexico, despite of all the bad publicity.
-Nissan XTerra (Dave and Ann)
-Nissan Patrol
-2 x 1970 something VW Van
-Toyota HZJ78
-A couple older 1980s Dodge Van Camper conversion.
-Ford F250 dually and huge truck camper from Austria (stopped on the side of the road, I think because of a flat tire)
-3 Cyclists
-2 guys on BMW F650GS
-2 guys on BMW R1100GS and KLR650
-Older (1980s) Mercedes Sprinter Westfalia with French plates
-VW Westfalia 1986 from Quebec
-2 Eurovan from Oregon
-Several huge RVs and Fifth wheel/truck combo - most of them retired people from Canada.
-Dodge Dakota and pop-up camper (Palomino?)
-Ford Transit from Germany
-Honda Africa Twin
That is just in less than 5 days.
It is nice to see that there are still plenty of people traveling around Mexico, despite of all the bad publicity.
Sorry no, it did not arrive before I left.
By the way, thanks again for providing the insurance. Even though Mexico is not nearly as dangerous as they make it to be, it was very nice to know that we had full coverage should anything happen.
Maybe you should cover Guatemala too, we have nothing here...
Last edited:
As I said, we have been driving pretty much non stop since San Francisco.
One challenge when driving late, with no plan, and arriving in Acapulco on the 30th of December is to find a hotel.
We were lucky to find a great room in this very exquisite boutique hotel, overlooking the street. Our room was the first window on the left.
Of all the great amenities, I particularly enjoyed the "self-massage" mattress, when there is so little to it that the springs poke your back all night.
We spent NYE in Zipolite in great company - Dave and Ann, active members on this forum.
Notice also the silver theme - we are trying to be different than the White Expo that is so last year.
It was interesting to discuss about the Autohome/Maggiolina roof top tent - which I must say I am extremely pleased with. I ended up using it more than I expected and really like it. The weight distribution is much better than a conventional roof top tent and putting it up/down so much faster/easier.
One challenge when driving late, with no plan, and arriving in Acapulco on the 30th of December is to find a hotel.
We were lucky to find a great room in this very exquisite boutique hotel, overlooking the street. Our room was the first window on the left.
Of all the great amenities, I particularly enjoyed the "self-massage" mattress, when there is so little to it that the springs poke your back all night.
We spent NYE in Zipolite in great company - Dave and Ann, active members on this forum.
Notice also the silver theme - we are trying to be different than the White Expo that is so last year.
It was interesting to discuss about the Autohome/Maggiolina roof top tent - which I must say I am extremely pleased with. I ended up using it more than I expected and really like it. The weight distribution is much better than a conventional roof top tent and putting it up/down so much faster/easier.
Last edited:
We eventually made it into Guatemala, where you can occasionally see relics of an interesting past...
We are now in Antigua - about to go out and meet up with James/Angela from NoLimitX. Apparently they have some exciting news coming!
We are now in Antigua - about to go out and meet up with James/Angela from NoLimitX. Apparently they have some exciting news coming!
Last edited:
I have always loved the colorful buses - especially since many of them are from Quebec, and used to ride in one to go to school...
As someone living in San Francisco, I appreciated the visual effect of this policy - basically suggesting that we don't use the public toilet to do a full body cleanup.
As someone living in San Francisco, I appreciated the visual effect of this policy - basically suggesting that we don't use the public toilet to do a full body cleanup.
I came up with several titles for this post..."what not to do when crossing a border", "how your attitude can change the course of event", etc...
Basically, I just want to show how different your experience can be at the same exact border, withing a few minutes difference, and what you can do to make it easier (or more difficult).
Coming down from Mexico into Guatemala, there are basically 3 border crossings you can take near the Pacific Coast.
One is called La Mesilla. It is the most inland of all 3 and apparently the more relax if you read some trip reports.
To get to this one, you must take the junction before getting into Tapachula.
The 2 other ones are nearby Tapachula. One is very near the coast at Ciudad Hidalgo and the other one is about 20 km inland at Talisman.
We spent the night at Tapachula so backtracking to La Mesilla would have meant 2 hours detour.
We decided to go at Talisman after people suggested that it would be more quiet.
So here is where things get interesting. As a disclaimer, I should mention that my Spanish is pretty decent.
We showed up around 11:00 am. As soon as we got there, I could see that it was indeed very quiet.
Almost too quiet, we immediately got surrounded by "helpers" wanting to guide us through the process.
I will get back later to the subject of "helpers" as deciding whether to use one or not is almost like discussing religion - very controversial.
We drove past them and got to the actual gate, trying to find out the location of the Mexican office at which we could return our vehicule temporary permit of importation.
A well dressed custom agent in his late 20s, early 30s approached us and started explaining to me that the Banjercito office is not here, but about 40 minutes back on highway 200 before entering Tapachula.
He also kept explaining that if I was to come back to Mexico within the validity period of the permit (6 months in my case), I should just keep it and return it then.
I suspect that a lot of people are doing that, but since this truck is going down to South America I really needed to return the permit as I did not want to pay some fines or duties.
We were not too excited to the idea of going back but we did not have much choice either.
We turned around and started heading back until we reached the first military check point which I had seen on the way down.
As usual they asked us to pull over. Before they could even start asking questions or searching the car, I went on asking where was the aduana/Banjercito.
The soldier forget and started giving us directions and we were on our way in 2 minutes.
We eventually found the office which we had missed on the way down as it was dark again when we arrived to Tapachual the night before.
The office is actually at the Aduana check point just outside the Zona Libra. We now have the GPS waypoints for it.
We were both a bit surprised that noone had mentionned it in any of the reports we had read the night before.
In any case, about 30 minutes later we had our Cancellation notices for the bike and the truck. Here is a first thing to note - when we got into Guatemala, they actually asked for this cancellation permit.
So if indeed you would want to keep the permit until you come back, you would probably have to explain that properly to the officer in Guatemala or otherwise they will send you back to get it.
It is also interesting to mention that the officer there - who was very polite and professional - went on to explain to me that they prefer if you don't use the helpers.
We drove back to the border and finalize the Mexican side of the process - just returning the tourist cards and get our exit stamps.
The first and only question that the officer asked me was to suggest that had to pay a fee for the tourist card, as indicated on the wall.
I explained to him that I paid on arrival. He asked me for the receipts, which I had left in the car. So I went back, got them and we got our stamp.
Second note - keep all your receipts.
We then drove onto the Guatemalean side, which is where things become more hectic. Some of the same helpers were still around, insisting on getting the paperwork done for us.
At some point, you have to ask yourself, how do I want to spend my time here.
Stressing, waiting in line, running around in the heat, paying the exact price for everything - or - relaxing, buying a ice cream from the lady, talking with other travelers - and paying $5 for that luxury.
I choose the latter.
It is important to understand that I have done dozens of border crossing in my life, and I have done both.
Sometimes if I am bit more familiar with the place, or if I am short on change, or if I am with people who insists we must not use them, then I have not.
Sometimes I have used one to do absolutely everything.
Most time I do a combination of both.
So this younger guy was really meticulous, made sure to make a clear copy of everything, noted the plate number and VIN on the vehicules, etc.
When I could tell he was doing it right, just let him go.
That's when I saw this couple on 2 motorcycles. And that's when it became entertaining.
I always love to meet other overlanders and exchange stories.
So naturally I went over, introduce myself and started chatting. Very nice couple but seemed a bit tense about the crossing.
My first question to them was how much they had paid for the vehicle permit - 55 quetzales, which is about $6US. Great, now I have a reference point.
If they charge me more, I know something is wrong. If it's less, great.
Their first question to me was if I had to pay a departure fee from Mexico - 261 pesos, about $25. I said no, I explained that the custom guy asked me about and that I had to show my receipts.
They said that they had to. Apparently they never asked them for their receipt and just charged them the 261 pesos fee. No need to say that they weren't happy.
I suggested that you just go back and argue about, which the man eventually did.
In the meantime, we kept discussing and she started telling me that they hadn't returned the temporary permit.
She said that they got confusing instructions for the custom guy (which I suspect was the same one who talked to me).
Shaun and I explained that the process is now actually quite simple and that they have a good system by which they take an imprint of your credit card and keep track of everything.
We both said that we think there might be complications if they don't return it and that now that they have all the proper stamps, they could just drive back and return it, then cross again without stopping anywhere.
The woman then discussed how they hate Mexico, that they will just fight it with the credit card if needed.
I stopped talking about it there...
In the meantime, the man came back and announced that he got the money back from them after showing the receipts!
We keep ********-chatting for a little while as I was waiting for the Guatemalean officer to complete the necessary paperwork.
As some point, the man said something about "Never ever leave your passport to any of these guys, make sure you always have it with you - terrible things will happen".
That's when I thought to myself - "humm, I have not seen my passport for a while, I wonder who has it now"...
About 5 minutes later, they called me in for a signature and a final inspection of the vehicle.
The inspection actually never happened, because Shaun and I had taken a few minutes to chat and make friend with the inspector while the helpers were running around.
We said goodbye, give $5 to the 2 helpers and and hit the road - with all our papers in order, not stressed, not angry, excited to visit Guatemala and sad to leave Mexico.
I am not sure our motorcyclist friends were in the same state of mind.
Basically, I just want to show how different your experience can be at the same exact border, withing a few minutes difference, and what you can do to make it easier (or more difficult).
Coming down from Mexico into Guatemala, there are basically 3 border crossings you can take near the Pacific Coast.
One is called La Mesilla. It is the most inland of all 3 and apparently the more relax if you read some trip reports.
To get to this one, you must take the junction before getting into Tapachula.
The 2 other ones are nearby Tapachula. One is very near the coast at Ciudad Hidalgo and the other one is about 20 km inland at Talisman.
We spent the night at Tapachula so backtracking to La Mesilla would have meant 2 hours detour.
We decided to go at Talisman after people suggested that it would be more quiet.
So here is where things get interesting. As a disclaimer, I should mention that my Spanish is pretty decent.
We showed up around 11:00 am. As soon as we got there, I could see that it was indeed very quiet.
Almost too quiet, we immediately got surrounded by "helpers" wanting to guide us through the process.
I will get back later to the subject of "helpers" as deciding whether to use one or not is almost like discussing religion - very controversial.
We drove past them and got to the actual gate, trying to find out the location of the Mexican office at which we could return our vehicule temporary permit of importation.
A well dressed custom agent in his late 20s, early 30s approached us and started explaining to me that the Banjercito office is not here, but about 40 minutes back on highway 200 before entering Tapachula.
He also kept explaining that if I was to come back to Mexico within the validity period of the permit (6 months in my case), I should just keep it and return it then.
I suspect that a lot of people are doing that, but since this truck is going down to South America I really needed to return the permit as I did not want to pay some fines or duties.
We were not too excited to the idea of going back but we did not have much choice either.
We turned around and started heading back until we reached the first military check point which I had seen on the way down.
As usual they asked us to pull over. Before they could even start asking questions or searching the car, I went on asking where was the aduana/Banjercito.
The soldier forget and started giving us directions and we were on our way in 2 minutes.
We eventually found the office which we had missed on the way down as it was dark again when we arrived to Tapachual the night before.
The office is actually at the Aduana check point just outside the Zona Libra. We now have the GPS waypoints for it.
We were both a bit surprised that noone had mentionned it in any of the reports we had read the night before.
In any case, about 30 minutes later we had our Cancellation notices for the bike and the truck. Here is a first thing to note - when we got into Guatemala, they actually asked for this cancellation permit.
So if indeed you would want to keep the permit until you come back, you would probably have to explain that properly to the officer in Guatemala or otherwise they will send you back to get it.
It is also interesting to mention that the officer there - who was very polite and professional - went on to explain to me that they prefer if you don't use the helpers.
We drove back to the border and finalize the Mexican side of the process - just returning the tourist cards and get our exit stamps.
The first and only question that the officer asked me was to suggest that had to pay a fee for the tourist card, as indicated on the wall.
I explained to him that I paid on arrival. He asked me for the receipts, which I had left in the car. So I went back, got them and we got our stamp.
Second note - keep all your receipts.
We then drove onto the Guatemalean side, which is where things become more hectic. Some of the same helpers were still around, insisting on getting the paperwork done for us.
At some point, you have to ask yourself, how do I want to spend my time here.
Stressing, waiting in line, running around in the heat, paying the exact price for everything - or - relaxing, buying a ice cream from the lady, talking with other travelers - and paying $5 for that luxury.
I choose the latter.
It is important to understand that I have done dozens of border crossing in my life, and I have done both.
Sometimes if I am bit more familiar with the place, or if I am short on change, or if I am with people who insists we must not use them, then I have not.
Sometimes I have used one to do absolutely everything.
Most time I do a combination of both.
So this younger guy was really meticulous, made sure to make a clear copy of everything, noted the plate number and VIN on the vehicules, etc.
When I could tell he was doing it right, just let him go.
That's when I saw this couple on 2 motorcycles. And that's when it became entertaining.
I always love to meet other overlanders and exchange stories.
So naturally I went over, introduce myself and started chatting. Very nice couple but seemed a bit tense about the crossing.
My first question to them was how much they had paid for the vehicle permit - 55 quetzales, which is about $6US. Great, now I have a reference point.
If they charge me more, I know something is wrong. If it's less, great.
Their first question to me was if I had to pay a departure fee from Mexico - 261 pesos, about $25. I said no, I explained that the custom guy asked me about and that I had to show my receipts.
They said that they had to. Apparently they never asked them for their receipt and just charged them the 261 pesos fee. No need to say that they weren't happy.
I suggested that you just go back and argue about, which the man eventually did.
In the meantime, we kept discussing and she started telling me that they hadn't returned the temporary permit.
She said that they got confusing instructions for the custom guy (which I suspect was the same one who talked to me).
Shaun and I explained that the process is now actually quite simple and that they have a good system by which they take an imprint of your credit card and keep track of everything.
We both said that we think there might be complications if they don't return it and that now that they have all the proper stamps, they could just drive back and return it, then cross again without stopping anywhere.
The woman then discussed how they hate Mexico, that they will just fight it with the credit card if needed.
I stopped talking about it there...
In the meantime, the man came back and announced that he got the money back from them after showing the receipts!
We keep ********-chatting for a little while as I was waiting for the Guatemalean officer to complete the necessary paperwork.
As some point, the man said something about "Never ever leave your passport to any of these guys, make sure you always have it with you - terrible things will happen".
That's when I thought to myself - "humm, I have not seen my passport for a while, I wonder who has it now"...
About 5 minutes later, they called me in for a signature and a final inspection of the vehicle.
The inspection actually never happened, because Shaun and I had taken a few minutes to chat and make friend with the inspector while the helpers were running around.
We said goodbye, give $5 to the 2 helpers and and hit the road - with all our papers in order, not stressed, not angry, excited to visit Guatemala and sad to leave Mexico.
I am not sure our motorcyclist friends were in the same state of mind.