+d's grand cherokee - mod's/thinking outloud

+ d

Adventurer
Well the most recent mod was a CB...
As with most of my other mods stealth was a priority when it came time to install a CB. For this reason i went with the Cobra WX ST . I narrowed my antenna options to a mag mount Wilson, because of budgetary constraints (as with most of my other mods) i opted for the “Little Wil” (no apparent relationship to flyingwil) which is an entry level version of the Wilson 1000/500. If I decide to step it up, replacing the antenna is easy enough.

The idea was to wire in a disconnect of sorts that would allow me to remove the antenna for normal street use, but be able to quickly attach it for adventure. The images should be fairly self explanatory, basically i tried to find a dash location and then run the cable through the interior to the back hatch, fortunately there was an existing rubber grommet that i pierced through to run my cable to the outside. the only real obstacle in this install was the length of the wire, it was too short to just run down the side of the jeep, over the drivers footwell and terminate at the center console, so i had to cut a corner and shoot over to the center under the drivers seat. let me know if you guys have any questions. and thanks for your help/comments!

Here's the installed Cb...
1CBpluggedin.jpg


The connection box fit pretty well directly underneath the dash cubby
CBboxback.jpg


Cobra supplies all the goods needed for a fairly clean install, though i drilled a hole and fit their grommet with out their included plate for the cleanest look. here is a similar install, though i don't have heated seats, so was able to retain the power plug
CBconnectionback.jpg


i picked up the connector parts at Mud Shack on El Cajon Blvd out near SDSU (they are Boston Mangler approved)
connectionparts.jpg


I drilled through the rubber with a bit that was about half the diameter of the cable, its a tight fit! but i added sealant and an O-ring anyway
cableexit.jpg


i attached the other connector to the remaining 9" tail on the antenna.
antennaconnection.jpg


done, just had to insert the whip and tune (thanks kevin)
antennaplacement.jpg
 

Life_in_4Lo

Explorer
cool, I want to cut and add a connector just like you did to the cb wire. I'm going to have to get to the local radio snak

Maybe wrap the connector in some rubber or something so it doesnt rattle around or chip paint?

nice setup
 

+ d

Adventurer
Life_in_4Lo said:
...Maybe wrap the connector in some rubber or something so it doesnt rattle around or chip paint?
good idea, perhaps a rubber cap that will protect the connection from the weather when disconected as well

calamaridog said:
I'm finally installing mine too!
in time for this weekend right!?
 

calamaridog

Expedition Leader
David,

Just wrap that sucker with electrical tape for the weekend if you don't have time for more elaborate measures.

And yes, I'll have mine installed. That way I won't have to use the portable.
 

datrupr

Expedition Leader
David, I like that idea of adding a quick disconnect. I am going to have to look into that, as my antenna does not have one, I had to stick within the realms of the budget also. Thanks for the tip, and very nice install.
 

calamaridog

Expedition Leader
David,

I was excited to see your truck in person this weekend. I really like your stealthy square tube sliders, very cool indeed. It sounded like they work really well too:D

Your CB sounded good too!

Do you happen to have the part number for those stem mounts? I think you said they were in the Bilstein catalog?
 

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+ d

Adventurer
hey thanks bryan!
:D

part number? sure do...192228, msrp is $18 for the pair.
i reccomend getting them from ASI, which is right in El Cajon, 619-444-9766. i had tried to order them through offroad warehouse but they wanted to charge me $28!

let me know if i can supply any other info
here is a pic of them...
stemconversion8zx.jpg
 

+ d

Adventurer
just a little background on my shock setup/reasoning. after running the rancho 9000's for a while i decided that hydraulic wasn't the best option for me. and i never really utilized the adjustability. i have always been attracted to the bilsteins but they weren't making it easy to find a shock that would fit my application...they don't list full specs on all of their shocks. i started off with the intention of running the 5100's but their "custom application" ones only come with loops on both ends, (the WJ is stem top and bar pin bottom) which means i would have to run a bar pin eliminator kit and a shock loop conversion kit.

i'm only at 2.5" and may go up another inch in the future, so i wanted to run the longest shock i could fit so i can keep as much articulation as possible (now and later). with a front wheel totally stuffed i needed a shock that was about 15.5" compressed...but minus .4" for bar pin eliminators and minus 1.1" for shock loop conversions i only had room to fit a 14" compressed length shock! which basically means 8" vs 10" travel..

but i found out that the 5150's upper loop was adjustable to facilitate locating the reservoir, therefore the upper loop was removable and i figured i could fab a stem conversion. but when the latest edition of the bilstein catalog came out i found some subtext that mentioned a "stem conversion" and a part number. tons of phone calls later i finally got ahold of a set and i saved 1.1" the other thing i was able to do was mount my bar pin eliminators upside down, effectively adding to my allowable compressed length.

10" bilsteins were a perfect fit, and they ride sweet.

i did extend my bumpstops about .5" just to keep from over-compressing the shocks, and i added limiting straps to prevent over-extending them. though after this weekend it was apparent my limiting straps stretch enough to allow my springs to fall out!
 
Last edited:

elcoyote

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
Just my 2 centavos on the ARB and Dana 35 combo...my experience was terrible. Started with the old style ARB that had the C-clip eliminator kit (1993), went through 5 axles, the fifth separating from my MJ at 65 MPH in a curve, not pretty. ARB repaced everyone of them under warranty. Finally they up-graded me to the "New" style that retained the c-clip (1998). The cross pin fractured twice, jamming itself between the ring & pinion at speed...lots of rubber left on the road. Sooo, 5 axles, 3 ARB units and two D-35s later, I ditched the ARB for a Dana 44 and a Detriot. This has been running rock steady for 6 years now with out a hiccup, and that includes off road towing duty.
 
S

Scenic WonderRunner

Guest
David.......

It was fun exploring with you on Sat.....!

Your jeep rocks!

Lets all do it again soon!

~Mark
 

+ d

Adventurer
elcoyote said:
...my experience was terrible...
wow, that has got to be the worst first hand dana 35 horror story yet!

well, after all of the input i am thinking of another direction, rather than build my self a very expensive house of cards, i am thinking of trying the lunch box locker approach. they offer a significant savings in price and labor since i can install it myself in the driveway. the money saved will go into other much "needed" mods, finishing the rear suspension, spring retainers (!), a fridge (?), etc... meanwhile the ultimate goal will be to save up for an axle swap, perhaps a Currie Dana 44...

as i understand it there are some side effects for such easy, cost effective moves, the road manners of a locker take some getting used to. but i think that my wife and i are conservative enough drivers that it could be okay. worst case, if it is intolerable, i can remove it myself and go back to an open diff.

The units i am looking at are:
Powertrax NoSlip - $380

Detroit Easy Locker - $260

Any thoughts or experience with any of these?

 

+ d

Adventurer
Scenic WonderRunner said:
David.......

It was fun exploring with you on Sat.....!

Your jeep rocks!

Lets all do it again soon!

~Mark


agreed!

(i've got a video of you in the 'runner that i need to send you.)
 

Scott Brady

Founder
I used the No SLip in my Grand for several years with great success. No complaints and I installed it in a few hours.
 

cshontz

Supporting Sponsor
I composed two relatively thorough Powertrax No-Slip reviews several years ago for Rockcrawler.com, you might find them informative.

Rear:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/powertrax_tj/

Front:
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/powertrax_tj/front/index.asp

In summary, my opinion is that the Powertrax No-Slip is durable, and effective. It performs as advertised, provides a 100% lock, and compared to other lockers in its class, it is marginally smoother.

For instance, a Powertrax Lock-Right (nearly identical to Detroit EZ) will audibly ratchet to an extent until engaged, while the Powertrax No-Slip will differentiate with little or no chatter before it is engaged. While I've never run a Lock-Right in my own vehicle, most of the folks I know are perfectly happy with its operation, both on-road and off.

I did have a problem with my front Powertrax No-Slip not engaging properly. I uninstalled and reinstalled, only to discover that everything seemed to be okay. The problem persisted, and Powertrax replaced the unit. The second locker functioned as it should have. I was concerned at the time, but it seemed to have been an isolated case.

That being said, I would not do it again on my daily driver. The Powertrax No-Slip was tolerable at first, but the pavement mannerisms did start to get on my nerves over time. I ultimately uninstalled the lockers in favor of spider gears because I was spending alot of time on the road. This time around, I'm going to install manually operated lockers or nothing at all, as I enjoy on-pavement touring almost as much as traveling off-pavement.

I will still recommend the Powertrax No-Slip or lunchbox lockers in general, because for the price you pay, and the little work you have to do, the off-road performance gain is nothing short of amazing. As you mentioned, it is an easily reversible modification.

I hope that shed some light, David. It should be noted that my experience with lunchbox lockers was in a Jeep Wrangler with a manual transmission. Driving characteristics might differ slightly in your Grand Cherokee. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with! :)
 

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