The center mounted winch thread....

windsock

Adventurer
In my planning for continuing the install of my mid-mount winch (currently mid-mounted but only working rearwards) I am going to be using sheave blocks for angle changes and inserting plastic plumbing pipes between them to stop the wire rope sagging when unloaded and to ease threading if I have a breakage. I am intending to avoid friction (non-sheave block) based angle changes regardless of material.

The majority of work I have done with this winch precludes the use of anything else but wire rope so I am sticking with it.
 

JamesDowning

Explorer
Would stainless or aluminum be better for corrosion? Yes. rough price on 8' of 1.5" dia, .120 wall tubing is $225!

I worry about the reliability of your system if you've got rust picking at your syn line at every bend.

Mcmaster-carr isn't known for having the best prices on things, but they have 1.5" x 6' x 1/8" wall aluminum tubing for $60 (PN 89965K326). Stainless is much more, at $150 for a comparable 304 stainless tube (granted I'm comparing 6' to your 8'). You can also save a lot of money by going with a smaller diameter tube, like 1", which shouldn't hurt anything.

The aluminum could work well as long as you mount close to the bends in the tube. Do it right the first time, but only you know your budget for this project, and how much rust you can expect in your area.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
I'm considering stainless. There are a few more details in my truck build thread.

The biggest problem with aluminum for me is I don't have a good way to weld it and join it to structural steel in the system.
 

JamesDowning

Explorer
I'd use tube clamp mounts like below:

Weld on:
3015t32p1l.png


Bolt on:
2236t31p1l.png


Then you could even mount the tube in pieces, then use butt-connectors to keep the tubing ends aligned. This is all assuming you're running your tube in a protected area of the undercarriage.
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
Those are neat clamps.

I was planning on using some short sections of C-channel that would cradle the tube on the 'legs' allowing me to weld the tube in two places. Then a simple hole in the other surface that would bolt onto the frame. I think I can even sandwich these mounts on existing bolts in the frame ( like the transmission crossmember and skidplate ).

All in all, I am trying to keep this project fairly simple and affordable.

I am planning on using some v-band clamps to attach the different tube sections together. I will probably make these with a lip to allow side loads to be held by more than the clamp itself.

So far the major winch line tube parts...

-A hard mounted tube welded in the front most cross member of the frame with a round aluminum hawse that will be shaped to keep the safety thimble from pulling in.

-An 'engine' tube ( steel, stainless, or aluminum ) that will go from the front cross member tube to near the transmission cross member. This will attach to the front cross member tube with a modified v-band clamp. Near the transmission cross member it will bolt to the frame.

-A short 1' open area between the 'engine' tube and the next tube at a straight section to allow mud and water to drain. It will also allow cleaning of the tube.

-A 'bed' tube that will go from just behind the transmission cross member to just above the rear axle tucked inside the frame rail. This tube will be bolted in at multiple locations.

The next question is if I should do a pulley where the line enters the 'bed' tube? The angle at that point will be about 15 degrees. If I where to do a pulley, how to keep the line in the pulley under slack?
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
The angle at that point will be about 15 degrees. If I were to do a pulley, how to keep the line in the pulley under slack?

No photo handy, but on aircraft flight control cables, a bolt is just mounted parallel to the outside of were the pulley is mounted, right next to it. It keeps the cable in, yet can be removed easily for cable removal/rigging.

little 'o' -- bolt with or without bushing (but right next to pulley)
big 'O' -- pulley

o O
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
No photo handy, but on aircraft flight control cables, a bolt is just mounted parallel to the outside of were the pulley is mounted, right next to it. It keeps the cable in, yet can be removed easily for cable removal/rigging.

little 'o' -- bolt with or without bushing (but right next to pulley)
big 'O' -- pulley

o O


Might work...but aircraft control cables pretty much never have any slack in them except when working on them, so they aren't prone to knotting up or getting pinched in the retention bolt like a winch cable might be...
 

Metcalf

Expedition Leader
What about a little spring steel 'spoon' that would put light pressure on the line holding it into the groove on the pulley?
 

gahi

Adventurer
How about a tensioner like used on motorcycles, but a pulley instead of a sprocket?\
large_320_chain-tensioner-sprocket-weld-on-photo-2.jpg


or a lot of guys run skateboard wheels too, and it wouldn't locate your cable but it would tension it.

large_322_chain-tensioner-wheel-weld-on-photo-1.jpg
 
Ok, since i thought about your idea and possible solutions for it, i`m toying more and more with the idea to fab this for my own truck too...

So, when i`ll be back from canada, i`ll have a look if you got done anything and start myself on my system...

Btw., i`ll have lot`s of time when i`m flying and on the train, so i`ll maybe come back with some new ideas...
 
In reading all I can find online (third read of this thread) I see that the center mounted winch is not that complex if you figure on a completely custom design!! I am wanting to keep my 1992 F250 looking like stock...at first glance, then as you look longer the trained eye will notice lots that is not stock. So a mid mount winch with a double roller fairlead inside of the rear license plate is neato to me. The plan as of now is welding in a steel roll pan with license plate provisions. Remove the license plate winged bolts and pull out a section of cable to add a snatch for rear pull. I will probably cut my front bumper horizontally at the XLT plastic trim, and add a 2 1/2" or 3" round tube as a push bar, this bar would allow for a inconspicuious exit for the forward cable and make the truck look taller!.

I have gathered that a front "centered" exit is worth while, and as simple as adding one more pulley before the front double fairlead and leaving room in the bumper to frame horn mount for the cable to go through across the vehicle.

Now for my question:

I am installing a 6.5' bed in place of my 8' because I have a 6.5' bed with matching ARE canopy. So I will have roughly 16" to play with between the cab and the bed/canopy. I have considered building a roll bar if you will out of semi truck frame rail, sort of similar to the Protec tube headache racks, mine would be body colored as to not stand out at first glance. So with a very strong "cage" of 10-12" channel I would be able to fab in a crossmember and truly tie it into the truck's frame. This would allow me plenty of room to mount my Ramsey 8k winch that I earned for free, it has a 120v motor on it now but uses a Lovejoy coupler so easy change out. So with plenty of exit points available in the rollbar, would I still be better served running the winch line under the truck and all that mess? Or just build it to pull from multiple points of the rollbar, say, port, star, and top? Obviously I will be compounding the force by extending the direction change away from the truck's frame. I think it may be able to do it similar to rollback tow trucks or the Unimog's deck winch with a swivel fairlead that spins direction of pull.

What say the other mid mount winch researchers? Too queer of a pull to pull from solid object, rollbar, then to winch? I would see it as advantagous to keep the pull side planted....to a point, then it may turn negative. What would you dream up with 16" of play and a desire to have a mid mount winch rather than a cool guy front bumper?
 

RangeBrover

Explorer
I've thought about the concept but my experiences have only been with Land Cruisers and some newer pickup trucks. My main concerns would be the lack of space in the midsection, I just don't know where I could mount it without it hanging down and hindering ground clearance.

Have you considered just installing the winch in the rear where the spare tire mounts? I've seen a lot of land cruisers with this rear winch setup that keeps the winch hidden but still easily accessible from the rear.
 

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