Recommendations for dual battery isolator solenoid?

4AFK

Observer
I’m looking for something easy. I’ve made a decision to install a 12V dual battery isolator solenoid, but now the problem is understanding where I’m going to get the most bang for the buck. Anyone have recommendations experiences you’d like to pass along to me before I start tossing darts at this target?

The model for what I’m attempting to do is here and includes the wiring diagram for the eventual installation of the solar system (50W) I will add later.
 

4AFK

Observer
Ok, guess my bait wasn't too tasty or maybe no one else runs a battery management system. Anyway, I continued my shopping and ended up calling the folks over at Sierra Expeditions. After much discussion they made the recommendation that I try the IBS-DBS Dual Battery System with Microprocessor. It will do the job I require easily out of the box and allow me to integrate my solar panel/charge controller on the AUX side of the solenoid. Plus, its a dual direction isolator which means I've now got the ability to jump myself (ha!). Pretty cool, really looking forward to getting this in my Van.
 

1911

Expedition Leader
I'm using this one and I'm happy with it so far: http://www.wranglernw.com/pc-6420-1008-isolation-relay.aspx

Very simple to connect and wire up. With a simple switch and a relay I can have both batteries charging as long as the ignition is on, both batteries automatically isolated when the ignition is off, or combine both batteries any time for self-jumping or winching.
 
Last edited:

nick disjunkt

Adventurer
Hi there,

I'm not sure I know exactly what you want to achieve but I have a fair bit of experience in low voltage DC electrics so I should be able to help.

A solenoid in this case merely disconnects the two sets of batterioes, but unless I missed it you didn't say what you wanted to trigger the disconnect or connect action.

The most common usage and what I suspect you want is that the two batteries are generally disconnected so that you can run loads from the auxilliary battery without discharging the starter battery and compromising the ability of your truck to start. But you want the two batteries to reconnect when the truck is running so that you can charge the auxilliary battery (and the starter battery) from the truck's alternator.

Of course the simplest solution is to just have a manual isolator which connects or disconnect the two battery banks but with this you need to remember to connect the two when the truck is running, and disconnect them when you have stopped the engine.

If you want to automate this process, then you need single-pole single-throw normally open relay/solenoid. Single pole in that it only acts on the live cable, single throw in that it either makes or breaks the circuit and does not change from one circuit to another, and normaly open, in that it the circuit is normally broken, unless the relay coil is energised and the the circuit shuts.

On any type of relay the coil can be designed to be activated in a number of ways. The most common application for a 12v SPST-NO relay is to have a 12v coil which is activated by a cable connected to your ignition. This means that when you turn the key in the ignition, the batteries are immediately connected. This system is normally fine, however there are certain circumstances under which it can cause a few problems. The main problem arises when for some reason the starter battery is low on juice (left the headlights on) and the auxilliary battery has a good charge. In this situation when you turn the ignition one click the batteries are connected together, then when you try to turn the truck over the starter motor tries to pull all its power from the auxilliary battery because it will always take the path of least resistance. This is fine if the cabling to your second battery is adequate, the solenoid is rated for the full cranking current, and the battery is designed for starting, but in most installs this isn't the case. For example in my truck I have a leisure battery which is great for deep cycling but inadequate to provide cranking amps, the cable is completely undersized to power a starter motor, and the disconnect solenoid is only rated at 60a continuous.

If your install is anything like mine, you need to find another way of triggering the solenoid to connect the batteries after the truck has started. The most common way of doing this is using what is called a voltage sensitive relay. Basically the coil in the relay doesn't activate and connect your two batteries together unless a certain voltage is reached. This voltage is preset at the manufacturers to be higher than a battery that is well charged, but lower than the typical voltage output of an alternator. Therefore the solenoid wont activate untill the engine is running and the alternator is operating. As soon as the engine is stopped and the voltage drops back to 12.5v or that of a well charged battery, the VSR disconnects the two batteries again. There are a number of manufacturers of these relays but the marine ones tend to have the highest current rating. BEP Marine and blue sea marine both make good ones but at a high price.

There are numerous other solutions, including blocking diodes and high-tech regulators but a VSR is certainly the simplest and most robust automated connect/disconnect system.

If I misunderstood what you wanted let me know.

Nick
 

rusty_tlc

Explorer
Go to a local trailer place, commercial or RV it shouldn't matter much.
Get a isolation solenoid rated for the expected current load, probably about 30 or 40 amps. Make sure it is rated for continuous duty, other than that the brand shouldn't matter much. As with most things avoid the cheapest and most expensive options, go for the mid range unit.

You will also want a thermal breaker, breaker cover and a in line fuse. Wire the breaker on the supply side of the close to the solenoid. Wire the fuse as close as possible to the secondary battery supply terminal.

At a minimum use #10 wire throughout except for the solenoid control wire that is fairly low current so #16 or #18 should be fine. Summit racing and boating stores sell stranded wire, summit only sells rolls but a boating store should sell by the foot.

This system has been used since dirt was new is is pretty much bullet proof. It has several advantages over the newer solid state "battery isolators". First the solenoids are extremely robust, second the on resistance of a solenoid is essentially zero so there is no voltage drop, no power to dissipate etc.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,885
Messages
2,879,172
Members
225,450
Latest member
Rinzlerz
Top