D110 Swivel Pins: When to Replace?

gm13

Adventurer
So how much play should there be, if any if the pins are ok? I've about 3/16-1/4 inch of movement when rocking the wheel at 6 and 12(o'clock), too much? There is also a wobble after hitting a bump which is the reason I'm suspecting an issue. I'm sure the steering damper needs replaced but that most likely isn't the only contributor.


Thanks for any input.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
If you have that kind of movement in the swivel pins then you should be able to see it where the pin meets the swivel housing. If indeed it's that, and not the hub bearings, definitely time to replace the swivel pins and bearings. There should be no lateral swivel pin movement.
The shop manual tells you how to adjust them, but that's only when the preload it too light. If you have they kind of movement the bearings will be damaged. Replacement is also covered in the manual.
 

gm13

Adventurer
have you checked that the play isn't your wheel bearings

No I haven't, good point Doug. Is there any indicator it's the bearings rather than pins other than pulling it apart? If bearings were bad would there be play between 3 and 9?
 

gm13

Adventurer
If you have that kind of movement in the swivel pins then you should be able to see it where the pin meets the swivel housing. If indeed it's that, and not the hub bearings, definitely time to replace the swivel pins and bearings. There should be no lateral swivel pin movement.
The shop manual tells you how to adjust them, but that's only when the preload it too light. If you have they kind of movement the bearings will be damaged. Replacement is also covered in the manual.

Now that you mention it, I didn't see the wheel move between the swivel ball and it's housing, seems like the movement is further out, wheel bearings then?
 

DividingCreek

Explorer
Gene

Willing to bet its wheel bearings- periodic cleaning out of contaminated grease and repacking is part of rover ownership. The hub nut wrench is about $12 from most of the usual vendors. I tension the wheel bearings until they start to bind when I spin the wheel by hand and then back off and 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. The bearings are timkens and are readily available @ any parts store but they seldom need replacement unless the race's are scored. I have been using some green high temp synthetic marine grease sold @ Tractor Supply and Autozone that I really like.
Did you ever get the temp gauge sender issue squared away ?
 

gm13

Adventurer
After further inspection it does seem to be mostly a bearing issue, though driver side has a slight swivel ball wobble, might move a 1/16". I'll do the wheel bearings and tracking arm ends, as one has a split boot, then add a damper and see where that gets me.
Thanks for the input and no I haven't switched out the temp gauge though I did pick up an infra red thermometer and it definitely isn't running hot. Hope to deal with the oil temp, pressure and fuel gauges sometime soon, hooking up the glowplugs first though.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
No, don't add a damper to try to fix loose steering issues. Get your steering sorted out and then fit a damper. Dampers aren't to correct loose steering.
You should have zero movement in the swivel pins. Time to get the swivel pin rebuild kit and do it properly.

The hub bearings are Timken SET37, SKF BR37, ****** KIT38 or National A-37.
If you take it off-road use the RTC3511 hub seals.
 

gm13

Adventurer
No, don't add a damper to try to fix loose steering issues. Get your steering sorted out and then fit a damper. Dampers aren't to correct loose steering.
You should have zero movement in the swivel pins. Time to get the swivel pin rebuild kit and do it properly.

The hub bearings are Timken SET37, SKF BR37, ****** KIT38 or National A-37.
If you take it off-road use the RTC3511 hub seals.

I've bought all of the parts with the exception of wheel bearings and plan on replacing all the seals/bearings/pins and one swivel ball along with wheel bearings, damper and cv's if needed next week and I did get the RTC3511G hub seals. any idea what the "G" is about? I've noticed it on a few items without a visible difference(online anyway) Not a fan of band aids just needed to know what the issues are.
Thanks for the input, much appreciated guys.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Not a fan of band aids just needed to know what the issues are.
Then don't install the new damper until you have the steering issues fixed, because that's all it will be.

Yeah, the 'G' is often used oi denote (G)enuine in a resellers catalog.
On the other hand, I have right here next to me a stack of Britpart seals that say FTC4785G on the package.
 

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