Prepping a camel trophy defender 110 for around the world...

[The Rover Shop]

Yeah...me too.. as mentioned this is not for an everyday procedure but more like when I have to leave the vehicle unattended or dubious areas...its nice to have the ability to make it that little bit more secure and hope you never need to...

 

[bobDog]

Yeah...me too.. as mentioned this is not for an everyday procedure but more like when I have to leave the vehicle unattended or dubious areas...its nice to have the ability to make it that little bit more secure and hope you never need to...

I would suggest looking at the system at http://www.overlandhardware.com/protect.html Good looking easy to install.... 1 key.....first look says don't bother cause you are not going to get in this rig. All use from outside...no climbing around and it's fast to use leaving or coming back. Can unlock just one door in emergency bugout.

 

[The Rover Shop]

I would suggest looking at the system at http://www.overlandhardware.com/protect.html Good looking easy to install.... 1 key.....first look says don't bother cause you are not going to get in this rig. All use from outside...no climbing around and it's fast to use leaving or coming back. Can unlock just one door in emergency bugout.

I like the look of those...had i found those before i may not have done what I did..all I can say is that mine cost me alot less and go along the lines of trying to do as minimal damage to the original body as possible...(I am trying to keep to only doing mods to non-invasive or easily undone mods to the body itself.....kinda like tread lightly approach to the camel body..).. I like the visual deterrent element though..and I made the chain long enough that it can go back through the steering wheel for an even more visual effect..and the chain also doubles as a hammock securing strap ..LOL..

 

[Power Wagon Okie]

I want to see videos of your mini-me in action!

 

[The Rover Shop]

Yeah me too... the first day I had it I was teasing the dog and she took offence to it and took a chunk out of the rear fender...not too bad and repairable and the 2nd day i was teasing my daughter with it and pushing her foot and i broke the rear driveshaft....funnily enough the last time I had my camel (the real one) out 4 wheeling I broke the rear driveshaft as well...thats the last time i drove it, this build commenced and it hasn't moved off the lift for 4 months now...any day now it will be back on the road...waiting for the rear driveshaft for mini-me to arrive...should be here tomorrow..

 

[The Rover Shop]

Had some rust repairs done to my hood and then had it painted...as shown previously installed the spare wheel re-inforcement...so the other night I very cautiously cut a hole in my hood for the snorkel to go through...(mine being right hand drive it goes through the hood due to the heater air box ductwork...left hand drive ones went right through the fender)..the placement has to be pretty precise because it needs to sit in between the washer bottle an the heater box underneath...lucky I nailed it dead on...so I go to mount all of the snorkel only to find that I now have a mounting problem with the top of it due to my roof rack front bar tilting modification...just another problem to innovatively solve..LOL..have to do that pretty much last as I can't put the rack on while its in the shop as it wont fit out the shop doors..

 

[The Rover Shop]

did a trial run of my plasma cord install...wasn't sure if I could get 125 feet of 3/8 line on it but it works...its staill brand new and I know once it is used it will flatten down quite a bit...will still need to be cautious pulling on an angle so it doesnt all bunch up on one side...but hey, its a land rover..she ain't gonna get stuck right..????...yeah right..:smiley_drive:...if you don't get stuck you ain't far enough off road..:snorkel:..

 

[The Rover Shop]

okay...no for the next major.."save my *** when i break something in the middle of nowhere mod...".. wanted a way so that I could mount a on-board welding system but I dont want it permanent..that way should I need it I can install it in about 10-15 mins (lets face it...if I need it I gots nothing but time on my hands as i ain't going anywhere in a hurry)...so I took an old pulley from one of the old series engines I have laying around and cut the face of it off...the pulley being conical the lower you cut down the bigger the hole..and I slipped it over the water pump pulley and welded it on..I forgot to take a pic after I cut the face off and sat it on there..



Not the best of welds but I was getting tired...and I still have to clean them up later..


cleaned up and painted and installed it looks something like this..



Made a very rudimentary mounting system for the alternator install...the two support brackets allow it to move away from the pulley thereby tightening the belt...will just use a ratchet strap to supply the pulling of the alternator as nec..will be making a better support braket as it needs to come forward about an ich to line up with the pulley...once again it doesn't need to be perfectly aligned as it will only be used temporarily and at about 1500 rpm at the most..



So the whole setup looks something like this..


The beauty of this system also is that should I have a failure of my engine alternator I can mount this one and either charge the batteries and then continue or leave it mounted and drive on...so I am carrying a spare alternator as well..to utilise this I simply slip the belt over the fan and right onto the vacant pulley and onto the welder alternator....tension it up and away we weld...

 

[The Rover Shop]

Installed a new alternator on her while I had it apart..thanks to some helpful links in these forums or another one found that the alternator for this is the same as one for a Massey Ferguson tractor...got a brand new 70 amp alternator for about $80...nice to know also that now its the same as most farm country alternators so it opens up future repair options..even the electrical plug on the back is the same...and it works great...a real plug and play...

 

[discotdi]

Do you have a part number for the MF tractor alternator?

 

[The Rover Shop]

Discount starter and alternator... part number 12088n.. plug-n-play baby...its a great thing..
http://discount-starter-alternator....or-Ford-Backhoe-Farm-Tractor/M/B003H0FBOK.htm

 

[Nonimouse]

What he said

 

[Expedition.Report]

okay...no for the next major.."save my *** when i break something in the middle of nowhere mod...".. wanted a way so that I could mount a on-board welding system but I dont want it permanent..that way should I need it I can install it in about 10-15 mins (lets face it...if I need it I gots nothing but time on my hands as i ain't going anywhere in a hurry)...so I took an old pulley from one of the old series engines I have laying around and cut the face of it off...the pulley being conical the lower you cut down the bigger the hole..and I slipped it over the water pump pulley and welded it on..I forgot to take a pic after I cut the face off and sat it on there..
View attachment 89581

View attachment 89582
Not the best of welds but I was getting tired...and I still have to clean them up later..
View attachment 89583

cleaned up and painted and installed it looks something like this..

View attachment 89584

Made a very rudimentary mounting system for the alternator install...the two support brackets allow it to move away from the pulley thereby tightening the belt...will just use a ratchet strap to supply the pulling of the alternator as nec..will be making a better support braket as it needs to come forward about an ich to line up with the pulley...once again it doesn't need to be perfectly aligned as it will only be used temporarily and at about 1500 rpm at the most..

View attachment 89585

So the whole setup looks something like this..
View attachment 89586

The beauty of this system also is that should I have a failure of my engine alternator I can mount this one and either charge the batteries and then continue or leave it mounted and drive on...so I am carrying a spare alternator as well..to utilise this I simply slip the belt over the fan and right onto the vacant pulley and onto the welder alternator....tension it up and away we weld...

Loved the read so far! Keep it up!!

Great welder idea as well! Just one question, did you think about your pulley ratio? The reason I ask is the Alternator on the motor has a pulley that makes it spin much more in one full belt rotation when compared to the water pump as it has a much bigger pulley; as such you have this welder pulley the same size as the water pump pulley... Do you have an ideal RPM to reach while the motor is an idle??

I hope I made some sense here haha

 

[The Rover Shop]

Hey stranger...been a bit quiet lately...musta been busy,,???

 

[rijosho]

While it looks very crude the idea is quite simple...give you enough time and warning allowing you to load your gun and take aim and shoot the thieving mogrel dogs...even if they do unlock the door its going to take a hell of a man to break that stainless stell chain or pull the rivnuts out of the door frame...the eyelet bolts are long enough that if you try to undo the bolts the chain does its tightening twist long before the bolt comes out..I will have the same system on the rear doors..when parking the car in a dubious situation, (which will hopefully not happen too often) or when leaving the car somewhere while we go off on bikes this system will be used..I exit the vehicle and close and lock all doors except the rear..then i go in through the rear door and chain and lock the front doors together and then do the same to the rear doors, I then leave out the rear/back door and then another rod goes on the inside of the camel ladder and bolts to either side, making it impossible to get in through the rear door..and then I arm the alarm which has a glass breaking senso and motion switch..should the thief attempt to break the glass the alarm goes off and with the thief then seeing the obstacles he is about to face he usually takes off...should he persist and get inside by climbing through the window and manages to sit in the seat with that chain diggin into his back...should he then manage to get the alarm siren with the 140dB siren blaring out the front and the additional one inside the vehicle pircing his eardrum and not to mention creating quite a scene...but lets say he manages to get around all of this he then manages to find the battery switch and turn it on...then finds that the gear box transfer lever is in neutral, and then finds that my park brake can't be released because i have a steel pipe slipped over the handle and padlocked to the handle making pushing the release button impossible...but lets say he manages to get around all of thes and also manage to get the door chains released etc etc...and then manages to get it started coz he is going to get a bunch of money for this camel trophy at his mates chop shop and he manages to get it started while dodging the hail of bullets from my gun which I have carefully loaded and taken aim with, he starts the car and drives off thinking he has finally made it...only to find that the vehicle dies in the middle of the road because the fuel cutoff solenoid hasn't been switched on by the unmarked hidden switch inside the tuffy box , and the vehicle has died in the middle of the road, by this time your resident crim is strating to wish he took a different career path....or at least a different car...I can tell you from personal experience (don't ask) that he is not going to sit in the middle of the road trying to figure out what went wrong and trying to get it started again...off he runs hopefully empty handed and you get your car back with hopefully minimal damage...

Sweet - now we ALL know how to start your truck!