RangeBrover
Explorer
*Disclaimer* By no means do I consider myself to be an expert on Land Rover repairs, and I take no responsibility for any damage or harm that may come from my write up. These are the steps that I used on my 2008 Land Rover Range Rover to change the battery. The positive terminal has a pyrotechnic device attached to it so practice caution when replacing the battery.
Sorry for the legal blub, just want to make sure that someone doesn’t try to come and sue me.
This morning while I was driving into work, the Range decided to throw a check engine light. Luckily for me I was right down the street from my independent shop Arlington Motorcar in Tysons Corner. I dropped in at 8:30 and Daniel came out and plugged the computer into the car and the following faults showed up:
1: Cylinder 4 Misfire
2: Cylinder 5 Misfire
3: Cylinder 6 Misfire
4: No Connection To Vehicle Immobilizer
Now my initial reaction was that my spark plugs or wires had gone bad, but then I remembered that when the vehicle isn’t getting enough voltage, Land Rovers are prone to throwing random codes. I knew that I would need a new battery in the future because the original battery is almost 5 years old now. I’d noticed that the Nav would occasional flicker on start-up or stay dim for the first few minutes of driving so the battery was the culprit.
The Battery:
I purchased an Interstate MTP-H8A which is a AGM battery. It is slightly shorter in length than the OEM, but the height and width are the same dimensions and the battery fits like a glove. The battery is a monster weighing in at 60 pounds, and has 900 CCA’s. I paid right under $300 for the battery, and did the install myself. I figured the cost wasn’t do bad considering that I got it the same day, and the ones online for $260 would probably be around the same price after I factored in shipping.
http://www.interstatedealers.com/ibcatalog_09/pages/automotive/00001597_auto.htm
The Install:
These are the steps that I followed to complete the procedure:
1: Turn the vehicle off and let it sit for at least 2 minutes for the navigation system and radio to shut off, and another 10 for the SRS system to disable. If you jump the gun, you risk damaging the navigation system, radio, and the pyrotechnic charge can explode. Also make sure you leave the driver side door open, because the Range Rover can attempt to go into Super Lock when you disconnect the battery. Also make sure the wheels are pointed straight forward.
*Note On Pyrotechnic Charge*: On the positive terminal, there is a pyrotechnic charge attached to the connection point. In the event of a crash it will cause a slight explosion and remove the positive terminal from the battery. Land Rover says to use extreme caution when handling the cable. My thoughts are that it is relatively safe because it’s used to bouncing around off road, but I’d rather be safe than sorry.
2: Put the hood into service mode by using a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the gas struts to the fender. I used a broomstick to hold up the hood, but it is easier with 2 people.
3: After the struts are removed, push the hood up towards the windshield and it will be at almost a 90 degree angle. Engage the latches to lock the hood into this position, you will see them, and they are hard to miss.
4: Disconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative. I did not connect a tender to my cables to keep the power on in the vehicle, but Land Rover recommends that you do this. If you decided not to, all that will reset is your clock, and calendar. Radio presets, and programmed seat positions will remain intact. There is one step that needs to be taken after but I will describe it later in the write up.
5: Unscrew the 2 brackets that are holding the battery in the tray, they have captive washers on the end so you don’t have to worry about dropping and losing anything.
6: Take a deep breath and pull out the original battery. My guess is that it weights almost 70 pounds, and I ended up putting one knee on the fender, and one on the engine to pull out the battery. I tried to use a step stool on the side of the truck, but it just didn’t give me a good angle to pull it out.
7: Put the equally heavy new battery into the vehicle and reattach the brackets to secure the battery.
8: Connect the negative terminal, and then the positive terminal to the new battery.
9: Reverse the steps on the hood and re-secure the struts to the fenders.
10: Close the hood and start up the vehicle. Make sure that while the vehicle is in park to turn the wheel full lock to the right, and then the left. This programs the steering mechanism, if you do not do this, you will get a suspension fault. This is why the wheels should be pointed straight forward.
*If you didn’t listen and you get a suspension fault, turn the vehicle off, slap yourself, and then go disconnect the battery and let the system reset itself. And repeat the steps over again.*
Hope this helps some of you guys, and sorry for the lack of pictures, I was too busy trying not to break my back or cause an explosion.
Here's what it looks like:
Sorry for the legal blub, just want to make sure that someone doesn’t try to come and sue me.
This morning while I was driving into work, the Range decided to throw a check engine light. Luckily for me I was right down the street from my independent shop Arlington Motorcar in Tysons Corner. I dropped in at 8:30 and Daniel came out and plugged the computer into the car and the following faults showed up:
1: Cylinder 4 Misfire
2: Cylinder 5 Misfire
3: Cylinder 6 Misfire
4: No Connection To Vehicle Immobilizer
Now my initial reaction was that my spark plugs or wires had gone bad, but then I remembered that when the vehicle isn’t getting enough voltage, Land Rovers are prone to throwing random codes. I knew that I would need a new battery in the future because the original battery is almost 5 years old now. I’d noticed that the Nav would occasional flicker on start-up or stay dim for the first few minutes of driving so the battery was the culprit.
The Battery:
I purchased an Interstate MTP-H8A which is a AGM battery. It is slightly shorter in length than the OEM, but the height and width are the same dimensions and the battery fits like a glove. The battery is a monster weighing in at 60 pounds, and has 900 CCA’s. I paid right under $300 for the battery, and did the install myself. I figured the cost wasn’t do bad considering that I got it the same day, and the ones online for $260 would probably be around the same price after I factored in shipping.
http://www.interstatedealers.com/ibcatalog_09/pages/automotive/00001597_auto.htm
The Install:
These are the steps that I followed to complete the procedure:
1: Turn the vehicle off and let it sit for at least 2 minutes for the navigation system and radio to shut off, and another 10 for the SRS system to disable. If you jump the gun, you risk damaging the navigation system, radio, and the pyrotechnic charge can explode. Also make sure you leave the driver side door open, because the Range Rover can attempt to go into Super Lock when you disconnect the battery. Also make sure the wheels are pointed straight forward.
*Note On Pyrotechnic Charge*: On the positive terminal, there is a pyrotechnic charge attached to the connection point. In the event of a crash it will cause a slight explosion and remove the positive terminal from the battery. Land Rover says to use extreme caution when handling the cable. My thoughts are that it is relatively safe because it’s used to bouncing around off road, but I’d rather be safe than sorry.
2: Put the hood into service mode by using a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the gas struts to the fender. I used a broomstick to hold up the hood, but it is easier with 2 people.
3: After the struts are removed, push the hood up towards the windshield and it will be at almost a 90 degree angle. Engage the latches to lock the hood into this position, you will see them, and they are hard to miss.
4: Disconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative. I did not connect a tender to my cables to keep the power on in the vehicle, but Land Rover recommends that you do this. If you decided not to, all that will reset is your clock, and calendar. Radio presets, and programmed seat positions will remain intact. There is one step that needs to be taken after but I will describe it later in the write up.
5: Unscrew the 2 brackets that are holding the battery in the tray, they have captive washers on the end so you don’t have to worry about dropping and losing anything.
6: Take a deep breath and pull out the original battery. My guess is that it weights almost 70 pounds, and I ended up putting one knee on the fender, and one on the engine to pull out the battery. I tried to use a step stool on the side of the truck, but it just didn’t give me a good angle to pull it out.
7: Put the equally heavy new battery into the vehicle and reattach the brackets to secure the battery.
8: Connect the negative terminal, and then the positive terminal to the new battery.
9: Reverse the steps on the hood and re-secure the struts to the fenders.
10: Close the hood and start up the vehicle. Make sure that while the vehicle is in park to turn the wheel full lock to the right, and then the left. This programs the steering mechanism, if you do not do this, you will get a suspension fault. This is why the wheels should be pointed straight forward.
*If you didn’t listen and you get a suspension fault, turn the vehicle off, slap yourself, and then go disconnect the battery and let the system reset itself. And repeat the steps over again.*
Hope this helps some of you guys, and sorry for the lack of pictures, I was too busy trying not to break my back or cause an explosion.
Here's what it looks like:
