How to make a cheap isolated dual-battery setup for $50

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Looks Good!

Verkstad is correct; you don't need fuses or breakers for such short, safe runs.

Consider taking them out and making the runs from the positive terminals to the relay even shorter.

Nice work!
 

SEREvince

Adventurer
Thank you all for the kind words and help.

Ditched the circuit breakers and was able to tidy everything up. I was able to reuse the wires, took 10 min to sort it out. Altough I had used the last of the Red adhesive heat shrink on the winch wires, so it got black. Not too worried since it's 3" from the source. Also got the winch wired in with Anderson terminals and mounted.

20170322_151221_zpsly6bp615.jpg
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Nice!

Looks nice! Just to be annoying - where does the red wire on the left of the photo (the one that disappears into a split loom) go and how long is it? If over 18-24 inches, then it might be a good candidate for a fuse/breaker right at the positive terminal of the battery.
 

SEREvince

Adventurer
Looks nice! Just to be annoying - where does the red wire on the left of the photo (the one that disappears into a split loom) go and how long is it? If over 18-24 inches, then it might be a good candidate for a fuse/breaker right at the positive terminal of the battery.

No, I appreciate the input. I have a very basic concept of electricity and ZERO knowledge on wiring! lol. It's about 5" and it goes to the winch. Well, it actually goes to a large Anderson plug that I'll plug into the winch when it's in use. It's my understanding that a winch can draw an enormous load under strain.
 

SEREvince

Adventurer
Fusing a winch is a PITA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

One reason its typically not done.
Winches can draw several hundred amps. But remember power is only 24hr live up to the winch control relays.
Consider placing the relays in a better protected location.

Warn xd9000i, the relays are all internal to the winch. Winch is only connected to power when needed. I picked up this winch for free and it already had the Anderson connector on it so I figured I'd make use of it. I plan on a wireless remote, so I like that a errant RF signal can't activate my winch. The last winch I installed had no provision for a fuse in the provided wiring or directions, so I figured I was good to go. I'm debating making a set of jumper cables to match. the only draw back is it would only work on my vehicle.

20170323_102733_zpstvpju19d.jpg

Winch was originally in a Warn multi mount set up, some one banged up the mount rendering it unusable. Over time the winch was striped for spare parts, but the mounting bolts had blocks welded on to prevent removal. It was going in the garbage since no one wanted to deal with it and it had sat for years! So I rescued it and was going to replace the cheap winch on my Taco for years. Lol It's sat in my grage for 4-5 years now. Don't know if it ever made a pull or if it even works.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
I'm debating making a set of jumper cables to match. the only draw back is it would only work on my vehicle.

This is what I did for my F-250.

IMAG0393.jpg

The short pigtail at the top goes to the battery, just like yours. It can used be for my Warn xd9000i winch, which is also in a cradle, or the jumper cables. If I want a regular set of cables, I just connect the two pieces with clamps together.

I started with a 16' set of 2 gauge jumper cables and modified them.

Eventually, I plan on getting a real winch bumper and a 12,000 or 15,000 lb. winch to go on it. Then I'll just keep the portable xd9000i for use on the rear, or other applications.
 

dlichterman

Explorer
This is what I did for my F-250.

View attachment 392847

The short pigtail at the top goes to the battery, just like yours. It can used be for my Warn xd9000i winch, which is also in a cradle, or the jumper cables. If I want a regular set of cables, I just connect the two pieces with clamps together.

I started with a 16' set of 2 gauge jumper cables and modified them.

Eventually, I plan on getting a real winch bumper and a 12,000 or 15,000 lb. winch to go on it. Then I'll just keep the portable xd9000i for use on the rear, or other applications.

I've been meaning to do something like that to make a nice set of jumper cables
 

Borrego60

Rendezvous Conspiracy
PAC PAC-500 500-Amp Relay Battery Isolator

I like the 500 amp part, the question is can this be mounted in any direction say upside down ect, what do the instructions say? I do know if you mount the Cole Hersee upside down they get really hot. Also what are the specs L,W H and terminal size.
 
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captwoody

Adventurer
I already have Anderson connectors on my main battery and my trailer AGM battery that I can use with my 2000 watt inverter. I was going to install an Anderson line from next to battery to rear receiver so I can use as a winch power source or to plug into trailer to charge trailer AGM while driving when its not connected to Solar panel, as long as I remember to disconnect rear Anderson when engine is off I think I am fine. am I missing anything
 

Redman333

Adventurer
I havent read through the entire thread so forgive me if its in here somewhere. How do you figure out the total amperage needed for a isolator? Ive found a few latching isolators that don't require any voltage to stay open or closed but they are 100amps continuous and 500amp spike ratings. Would something like this work.


Heres the link to an ebay page with the cheapest one I could find for around $51 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161886607979?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
Here is the info on it that I pulled from another page since the ebay page has no info on it.

Battery Disconnect provides a simple and safe means of remotely disconnecting batteries of an RV or boat. With a touch of a remote switch, the batteries will be completely disconnected, preventing unwanted drain when the RV or boat are put into storage. The heart of the system is a unique latching relay developed specifically for this purpose. While this relay is capable of carrying heavy currents, it requires NO power to stay open or closed. It only draws power during activation. The relay is sealed against the environments and is designed to withstand the shock and vibration experienced in the most severe RV or boat applications. THE RELAY - How it Works The Battery Disconnect Relay is a mechanically latching switch that operates by the momentary application of battery voltage to the coil terminals in one direction for latching (closed) or the other direction for unlatching (open). To close the relay, +12 volts is applied to the ""I"" terminal and ground the ""S"" terminal of the relay. When this is done, the plunger is pulled into the coil and the contacts are connected. While this happens, the rod magnet suspended above the plunger is attracted (opposite poles attract) to the top of the plunger by the magnetic field. To open the relay, +12 volts is applied to the ""S"" terminal and ground on the ""I"" terminal. When this is done, the plunger is again pulled into the coil. However, since the magnetic polarity of the coil is reversed, the rod is repelled (like poles oppose), and swings out of the way. When the voltage is removed from the coil, the plunger gets pushed upwards by the return spring, breaking the connection between the two large terminals. FUSES There are two 5 Amp fuses for the system, mounted on each relay. Looking at the relay with cap at the top, the fuse on the right feeds the LED indicator and if so equipped, the digital voltmeter. The fuse on the left feeds the power to the switch that operates the solenoid. Specifications: Relay Actuation Voltage 10.5 Volts Continuous Carry Current 100 Amps max. Short Term Carry Current 500 Amps (30 seconds max.) Note: Electronic Items are Non-Returnable.
 
If you are looking to isolate a single battery like for storage you described use Anderson Power Poles like an SB350 or SB175 connectors. Usually SB175 are plenty large enough to handle most loads. Problem with SB350 is that most cables are too small for a good crimp. It is designed for large cables.
 
PAC type contactors I like mounting them terminals down position. While they are sealed units I worry about moisture leaks around terminals. If pointed up there are pockets that allow water to collect and sit. Also I use terminal boots to protect the terminals better than sitting in the open.
 

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