Toroweap Backcountry

Imnosaint

Adventurer
We've been moto-camping for years, living in a mixed marriage of motorcycles; she on her Sportster 1200L and he on his CBR 1100 XX. We've manage to tote along enough to keep us warm, dry and fed, logging 20k miles throughout the West. Sleeping rarely came easy, though, and while eating out of a pouch saves on clean-up, we missed real outdoor cooking.

Life events changed the way we get around, now in a third generation Montero/Pajero/Shogun that gets the same mileage of our motorcycles combined. We've been building and outfitting for the last couple of months preparing to leave asphalt behind and explore our own backyard, the Grand Staircase National Monument.

We decided our first excursion with our newly acquired kit would be to the end of the world, or at least the Arizona Strip, the Toroweap Overlook and campground, nestled above a 3000 foot drop to the Colorado River.

We left St. George, Utah, Saturday taking the Main Street route, BLM roads 1069 and 5 from St. George, about 90 miles to Toroweap, Arizona, most of which is off-road.

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Our trip back was the Sunshine route, BLM 109 to Highway 389, a few miles east of Pipe Springs.

We arrived late afternoon and established our camp.

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In about ten minutes we had it all up, including a shower/changing room. The roof-top tent goes up in seconds, along with the awning. The kitchen deploys with pedestals for stoves or coolers along with a canvas wash basin under a removable work surface.

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We didn't know what to do with ourselves having grown-up camping gear compared to what we pack on the motorcycles.

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One improvised item is a heavy-duty garden sprayer I converted to a shower by replacing the hose and sprayer with a food-grade tube and shower head from an old solar shower. Pumped up it provided great water pressure for washing dishes and showering.

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We broke-in the kitchen with grilled chicken, sauteed squash and rice. A real meal not consumed out of a bag.

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After dinner we hiked down to the overlook to take a few photos. Found these natural tubs along the way.

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The Toroweap Overlook at golden hour.

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You don't take a step anywhere near the edge without second-guessing the canyon wall's integrity. It all has the look of giving way at any moment. We talked about what kind of sign the National Park Service might erect were this the case and decided on, "Natural Selection in Progress."

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Three thousand feet to the river. Made us jealous of the wind swallows, the California Condors and the ravens.

Back at camp we relaxed a bit and watched the stars unveil and climbed up to our roof-top nest and turned in. Comfortable.

The wind picked up later taking the awning down. We rolled it up and tucked it away and admired the Milky Way, the half-moon having gone past the horizon.
 

Imnosaint

Adventurer
Toroweap Backcountry - Part Two

Sunday morning I woke up early to someone listening to NPR, of all things. A down-loaded podcast since there's no service of any kind there. Early, like six-early on one hand, but NPR on the other... Okay, I can put up with that.

Then the goofing around, the giggling of a couple of park rangers. I climbed out of what we're now calling the bear-trough around 7:30 and improvised a way to make coffee without a press, the one with the JetBoil that I left at home. I boiled four cups of water in a tea pot, added two scoops of Breakfast blend and let it steep for five minutes, then poured, filtering through a paper towel. Best darn coffee I've ever had.

Mindy joined me and we made a hearty breakfast, accompanied by a floor show. The reason our rowdy rangers got up so early was to take on the task of cleaning one of the campground's two composting toilets. They dawned hazmat suits armed with shovels and heavy-duty garbage bags, and though they were about seventy yards away we could hear every word due to the parabolic nature of the cliff under which we camped.

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The shot above is an iPhone telephoto snap. The composting restroom is on the right, and the white-clad cleaner and his pickup truck on the left. The dry-heaving, and exasperated shouts of "How can anything smell this bad!" gave me a new appreciation for Park Service employees.

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After breakfast and dishes we hiked an old Jeep trail that took us around the Toroweap bluff to an edge of the canyon.

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As a loop it's a three mile stroll, but we continued on the old double-track to get to the canyon's edge, giving us a different view up-river.

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It's impassable as a double track, mainly due to huge boulders that have sloughed into its path, but at one time it must have been an incredible off-road trek.

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Everything is in bloom and vibrant.

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We left the double-track and made our way to the canyon wall along a water pocketed section of slickrock with natural carved basins that collect water. We came across a number of them that had been modified with rocks and mortar to create a dam. In the image above you can see how the mortar was used as a dike. Not sure who or when.

Other basins were etched with fissures leading into the basin to catch more water like this heart-shaped basin.

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Just beyond the basins is this view of the Colorado.

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We sat and watched the acrobatics of the wind swallows, zipping past our heads at g-forces no human could withstand.

On the way back we got politely dusted by three overlanders, two FJs, one of which in Monster4X4 motif, and a snorkeled Land Cruiser with a Trasharoo on the back, our next purchase.

After a long walk back we tried out the shower - hot water, pressurized, lovely - and broke camp.

The Montero is remarkable off-road. It's amazing to me that these vehicles have spent most of their motoring in rental-car fleets in the States while the rest of the planet exploits their off-road prowess.

And likewise, we're happy with our kit; the Eezi-Awn awning took a beating from high winds overnight, but it's no worse for wear, and the Oasis II RTT provided the best camp sleep yet.

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At the Highway 389 junction, we aired up and made our way home on pavement from Pipe Springs to St. George.
 

smittycrusher

Adventurer
On the way back we got politely dusted by three overlanders, two FJs, one of which in Monster4X4 motif, and a snorkeled Land Cruiser with a Trasharoo on the back, our next purchase.

Very sorry for the dusting! Toroweap was my favorite part of the trip. I am sitting back in my office in Atlanta wishing I was still out there. Great Pics!

Here is our write-up: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77551-Atlanta-to-Moab-Valley-of-the-Gods-Vegas-Grand-Canyon-Etc

We haven't finished the right up yet. Still need to post videos and pics of the Grand Canyon.

Ironically enough, I just posted about the value of the Trasharoo in this write-up.

Smitty
 

Imnosaint

Adventurer
Second that.

Enjoyed your post and images. What time is golden hour?

Rgds,

Brian

No worries. We enjoyed watching you amble by. Golden hour, for this photog, is thirty minutes before and after the sun hits the horizon.
 

upcruiser

Perpetual Transient
Great shots! We hit Toroweap last spring during my two month trip. I actually met Alyssa on that trip and it was our first date. Not a bad place for that! One of the highlights for sure.
 

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