Edgestar issue

Lrgrnr

New member
I'm having an issue with my edgestar fridge and was wondering if anyone could help...

I wired it through my existing fuse block and through on of OTRATTW's switches

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I'm 100% sure my wiring is correct.

The fridge works perfectly in AC/110, but once plugged into DC it just clicks and the lights on the control panel flash. Anyone got any ideas?
 

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Scoutn79

Adventurer
What is the amp rating of the switch? Is the circuit controlled by the switch greater than the switches capacity? Are the connections solid?
HAve you tried bypassing the switch and just connecting the wires together? Does the fridge operate correctly then? Does the fridge operate correctly when plugged directly into a 12V socket or directly to the battery?
Darrell
 

Lrgrnr

New member
What is the amp rating of the switch? Is the circuit controlled by the switch greater than the switches capacity? Are the connections solid?
HAve you tried bypassing the switch and just connecting the wires together? Does the fridge operate correctly then? Does the fridge operate correctly when plugged directly into a 12V socket or directly to the battery?
Darrell

I bypassed the switch and it did the same, I also thought my ground wasn't that great so I relocated it and same thing, just clicks in 2-3 second intervals and the lights flash the same. Pretty sure its in the fridge.

Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone took one apart?

It's a 20 amp switch.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
I have to suspect it's your wiring or something in your electrical (battery fully charged?)

Reason I say this is: when plugged into 115V AC, all that happens is the 115 VAC runs through a step-down converter which then feeds 12VDC to the compressor & controller. Unless it's getting something less than 12V, it shouldn't actually "know" the difference whether it's plugged into the wall or running straight from 12V.

What gauge is the wiring you used? (and approx total length of the wiring)? Maybe where you tapped into the fuse block is the culprit? Have you put a meter on it at all to see if the voltage is fluctuating downward when the fridge tries to start?
 

Lrgrnr

New member
I have to suspect it's your wiring or something in your electrical (battery fully charged?)

Reason I say this is: when plugged into 115V AC, all that happens is the 115 VAC runs through a step-down converter which then feeds 12VDC to the compressor & controller. Unless it's getting something less than 12V, it shouldn't actually "know" the difference whether it's plugged into the wall or running straight from 12V.

What gauge is the wiring you used? (and approx total length of the wiring)? Maybe where you tapped into the fuse block is the culprit? Have you put a meter on it at all to see if the voltage is fluctuating downward when the fridge tries to start?

It is wired correctly, I am starting to think it is the gauge of wire though.....I used about 4'-5' of 14 gauge wire for both the ground and the 12v with a switch in the middle.

I checked to see if I was getting 12v to the fridge, but did not check to see if it is fluctuating.

It is ran from my Hella 16 gang fuse block.
 

Scoutn79

Adventurer
According to one of my AWG charts 14 ga wire is good to 50 AMPS for 5'...not sure I would do that but it is definitely good for 2 amps to run a fridge. Are you using the factory plug?
Darrell
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
The fridge draws about 7-8 amps momentarily during compressor startup. If the voltage were to drop too much during this time, it could cause the controller to malfunction (which sounds exactly like what's happening if the display flickers out while it's trying to start).

#14 wire should still be fine though if it's only two wires about 4-5 feet each, however if there's any issues elsewhere in the wiring, it could still exacerbate it (I suspect that 50A rating would have to be for a non-insulated conductor in free air space, and would be completely impractical for 12VDC use due to the voltage loss).

I'd at least be trying the fridge in a cig lighter socket or on some other more direct source of 12 volts in an attempt to rule out a wiring issue in the vehicle.
 

Lrgrnr

New member
According to one of my AWG charts 14 ga wire is good to 50 AMPS for 5'...not sure I would do that but it is definitely good for 2 amps to run a fridge. Are you using the factory plug?
Darrell

I am not running the factory plug, I am in fact running this one http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-273...=UTF8&qid=1295552566&sr=8-1&tag=5336653594-20

I'm pretty sure I have the polarity correct but it's only 18AWG.

The fridge draws about 7-8 amps momentarily during compressor startup. If the voltage were to drop too much during this time, it could cause the controller to malfunction (which sounds exactly like what's happening if the display flickers out while it's trying to start).

#14 wire should still be fine though if it's only two wires about 4-5 feet each, however if there's any issues elsewhere in the wiring, it could still exacerbate it (I suspect that 50A rating would have to be for a non-insulated conductor in free air space, and would be completely impractical for 12VDC use due to the voltage loss).

I'd at least be trying the fridge in a cig lighter socket or on some other more direct source of 12 volts in an attempt to rule out a wiring issue in the vehicle.

Ok, thanks for all the feedback, In the morning I will hook the fridge directly to the battery and see if it does the same and report back.
 

Lrgrnr

New member
Ok, wired it up directly to the battery and it does the same thing. Just clicks, lights flash, nothing. Plugged it into my inverter and it works fine off 115VAC.

Still think it's something in the fridge. Has anyone pulled one apart and what would I need to look for inside?
 

RHINO

Expedition Leader
egads man,,,, have a look at one of the other HUGE threads on exactly this topic.
 

Lrgrnr

New member
have a look at one of the other HUGE threads on exactly this topic.


I have, a few times, and not once is this issue addressed.....this is not the low voltage issue. I have read through the 98 page Edgestar thread and 90% of it is people posting that they ordered theirs toady! Yay!

Do you have anything to add or are you just posting uninformative posts cause you're bored on a Saturday?
 

RHINO

Expedition Leader
Last edited:

Lrgrnr

New member
sorry, maybe i am just bored.

this thread is as good as it gets to date http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59788-Edgestar-Fridge-Low-Battery-Cut-Off-Issues

i guess if theres no info in that its best to start another new thread on yet another problem with edgestar than just expand on the one that already exists

have you checked the fuse on the board? maybe there are separate ones for 120 and 12 volt and the 12v one is blown?

I pulled the power supply box and checked the inside. 115VAC and the 12VDC share a fuse, it was good. I also checked over everything in the box and couldn't find anything visually wrong.

I then took it out to the truck and messed around with a multimeter. I am getting 13V to the fridge, and 13V to the power supply. I only have 8V coming out of the power supply to the compressor and it's fluctuating to 3V when it make the clicking noise.

This is telling me the power supply is shot. Whatcha think?
 

Lrgrnr

New member
I also checked it when my inverter was running the fridge through 115VAC and I have a full 12.5V going to the compressor and it purrs like a kitten.
 

RHINO

Expedition Leader
This is telling me the power supply is shot. Whatcha think?


looks like you found it. but whats next, start replacing parts? i dont know if you can buy that from edge or what, if any, warranty they will honor.
 

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