Max Coupler inverted

TacoDell

Adventurer
anyone else hitching up using this method ?
Concerns ? issues ?

My only concern thus far...
is that the primary nut isn't pinned or safety wired

Otherwise... it seems to be functioning as it does upright

it does seem more of a pita to hitch the bushing end...
coming up from the underside, to pin thru the saddle bracket




MaxCinverted6.jpg


MaxCinverted1.jpg


MaxCinverted5.jpg
 

toymaster

Explorer
OK, with the hitch inverted all the tongue weight is bearing on the threads of the main bolt & nut. Properly installed the forces on the threads are only those required to keep the assembly clamped together.

The second thing I see is the receiver mount used appears to be to thick. I had the same problem with mine. All of my existing mounts were of the old school variety. Sierra trailers was kind enough to give me one of the other designs that are thinner when I picked up my trailer. There should be at least a couple of bolt threads past the end of the nylon. By design the bolt is not made to be tightned; the bolt must be loose enough to allow the hitch to pivot but, not too loose.

I would visit wally world to buy the proper height mount taking care to examine the thickness.
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
Using of a longer bolt would be helpful. You need to have threads exposed beyond the nylock nut. I think specs calls for 3 rings of threads beyond the nut.

I'm sure that the coupler will function this way, but the design is spec'd for it to work the other way around. As stated you are now putting the weight of the trailer on the threads and nut, rather than the weight being taken by the drawer bar and the nut and bolt locating the coupler and compressing it in place.

I'm left scratching my head wondering why you want to run it this way around?? It seems from the pictures you are tongue high and reversing the coupler would bring you to level.
 

Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
This ^^

and it seems if for some reason if the nut worked off...the bolt just falls out and you're relying on the safety chains at that point. I do like the thought of a roll pin or something installed to prevent it from backing off. Does anyone (Chris?) know the proper bolt size to get 3 full threads showing?
 

TacoDell

Adventurer
Thanks for your reply's and input...

I tried to utilize a 5 1/4" drop hitch to get the trailer to sit as level.

That works... but I guess I don't like it hanging down that low...
as that creates additional concern on the trail for hang ups.

I did this because... I don't want to have to do a spring over... to obtain the ride height I need.
Nor am I interested in swapping out the axle, + new wheels/tires etc. (don't really want the expense involved in that)

I'm thinking of purchasing new tires... Likely 7.50 Military (32.5" I believe)
and those should bring the ride height closer to my current hauler's 295's
I would then assemble the MC as I had it previous and would feel better about that.

This is just a temporary measure... until I can afford to drop the dimes and nickles on those tires.

Bottom line... it would seem... I either have to go larger in tire diameter... or drop the axle under the leaf paks

btw... even when inverted... the Max C is still turning on the nylon/delrin disc(s)
and the bolt is not turning... though it does have to be fairly snug to be sure the bolt doesn't move as an assembly.
I also came to realize that the metal washer have two different sides to them... one flat, the other rounded.
and those must be in the correct assembly order... or the Max C doesn't spin on the nylon/delrin washers.

I drove it around a bit the other day... and checked things a few times... and it looked to be staying as put.
But like others have mentioned here... I'm not so excited about the the nut's thread being the only security here.

I'll try locating a longer bolt and see if that makes me feel more comfortable.

If someone knows the actual thickness of what the drop hitch mount thickness should be..? that would be of help to me.
I already own 5 different assorted drop hitches in order to adjust for the trailer's ride height to my truck...
guess I could buy some more...

or what about grinding the ones I do have... down to the correct thickness ? Bad idea ?

thanks
 

toymaster

Explorer
^^^^ Grinding it is not going to hurt anything. The only thing is doing it by hand it will be hard to get a perfectly flat surface.
 

McZippie

Walmart Adventure Camper
That works... but I guess I don't like it hanging down that low...
as that creates additional concern on the trail for hang ups.

Above quote is reason I wouldn't invert the Max Coupler... rather have the Ball Mount take a trail hit, than the Max Coupler.
 

BroncoHauler

Adventurer
Off in another direction, I'd also make sure that bumper is rated to tow. Many bumpers have receivers, but that doesn't mean they're there for towing. Many bumper receivers are there for mounting accesories such as bike racks.


Herb
 

TacoDell

Adventurer
Off in another direction, I'd also make sure that bumper is rated to tow. Many bumpers have receivers, but that doesn't mean they're there for towing. Many bumper receivers are there for mounting accesories such as bike racks.


Herb
I reinforced my All-Pro bumper myself... 'cause it's not rated to tow much in it's original config.
I trust my weld/fabrication work more then what I could buy elsewhere... rated or not.
Believe me... my Rr. bumper/hitch mount is beefier then the frame rails that support it.

^ for the first gen Tacoma trucks...
the rear frame rails are really the weak point...
tho' I have yet to box mine... I did weld reinforcement plates to the outer surface of each rail
and they're holding up good to towing abuses and many a trail poundings.

Also my M100 trailer has a max GVW of 1350#'s
This bumper will drag that around all day long, anywhere...
with little worry.
 

BroncoHauler

Adventurer
I reinforced my All-Pro bumper myself... 'cause it's not rated to tow much in it's original config.
I trust my weld/fabrication work more then what I could buy elsewhere... rated or not.
Believe me... my Rr. bumper/hitch mount is beefier then the frame rails that support it.

^ for the first gen Tacoma trucks...
the rear frame rails are really the weak point...
tho' I have yet to box mine... I did weld reinforcement plates to the outer surface of each rail
and they're holding up good to towing abuses and many a trail poundings.

Also my M100 trailer has a max GVW of 1350#'s
This bumper will drag that around all day long, anywhere...
with little worry.

Good to know that you've thought it out. I wish everyone did.


Herb
 

TacoDell

Adventurer
^ you won't get any argument outta me :)

================================

So anyhow... if I end up staying with the current changes...

I was trying to think of ways to better protect the Max coupler from trail damages.
and so... was mulling this idea in my thoughts...
and I'll refer to it as a "tail dragger" ...because I haven't a clue as to what it should be called... LoL

just wondered if you all might have any thought as to whether something like this could be helpful ?

MaxCinverted6a.jpg
 

zimm

Expedition Leader
OK, with the hitch inverted all the tongue weight is bearing on the threads of the main bolt & nut. Properly installed the forces on the threads are only those required to keep the assembly clamped together.
.


and the forces that are required in tension are the forces of a 6000 pound trailer pulling on a bolt in single sheer. his max tongue is 600 pounds dead. inverted is a complete non issue design wise here. i defy you to strip those threads with 30,000 pounds direct pull.

a nylock is nice... but i'd buy a grade 8, and pin it. i dont much like nylocks.

my question is, why lug that 30 pound lunette around if you arnt using it?
 

TacoDell

Adventurer
my question is, why lug that 30 pound lunette around if you arnt using it?
Two reasons actually...

1. If you might peruse my build thread... You would know that I've decided not to compromise the original integrity of this M100.

2. If for some reason the addition of Max C and extension assembly might fail... I still have a way to tow the trailer home for repair.
 

elcoyote

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0004
TacoDell, you have put the system in tension rather than compression which is significantly weaker. I do not have the engineering calcs handy to tell you how much weaker. The coupler is rated at 6000 lbs and it was not tested inverted in the SAE J684 test. I am fairly certain that the coupler would fail the test if run inverted.

With the coupler in it's proper position, the downward forces are put against the draw bar and hitch which are normally quite solid. There is also shear force exerted against the bolt. The way you have it set up not only are the same shear forces present but now, only the threads of the bolt are holding it in tension.

I can tell you that it was not intended to be used in this way and I strongly advise you to not use it in this way. You are at risk of losing the connection and your trailer, damaging the trailer and even worse, losing control of the trailer and vehicle, possibly even losing the trailer entirely if it overcomes the safety chains (which we have seen happen in violent handling situations). The liability of having the trailer injure others due to improper equipment use is no joke. That in itself is not worth the perceived extra inch of departure clearance.

Sorry to be a kill joy but we don't want to see anyone get hurt.
 

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