80/20 Frame for Tacoma sleeping platform

Our currently sleeping platform is supported by 1x6's in the factory notches in the bed with no center supports and a 2 piece plywood panel with a 1x2 frame. This works fine for one person, but sags with the weight of two humans and a 68lbs hound dog. We are thinking of using 80/20 to build replacements for the current wooden 1x6's. Hoping for a lightweight solution that would span the bed with no center supports and not sag. The other idea was to use LVL laminated beams.

Has anyone used 80/20 for anything similar? Wondering if its worth the time?
 

AaronK

Explorer
Got a picture of your current setup? Is the framing sagging or the panels?
LVL is an amazing product if you can find it in the consumer market.

Sent from my OnePlus One using Tapatalk.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
It's unclear from the OP whether the 1x6s are oriented flat / horizontally, or if they are on edge, vertical. It is also unclear to me if it is the platform that is bowing in the middle, but if so that would seem to indicate that the 1x6s are likely flat and that the span is too great for the strength of the platform material.

My suggestion is replace the 1x6s with 2x6s and add a 3rd 2x6 between the wheel wells, also flat, with its ends supported by stubs of 2x6 placed flat against the sides of the wheel well tubs so as not to impeded the central storage under the platform. That would seem to be the most direct and most inexpensive fix.


eta just googled up some images of a Tacoma bed, I now see the flat slots / indentations. Just put a 2x6 in there, you don't need the full edge support on your platform. Particularly if you put a 3rd crosspiece in. That is if you aren't compelled by OCD / asbergers to only use a 1x6.

You could also notch the ends of the 2x6s so they sit far enough down in the notches so they remain flush at the edge supports. The remaining wood ought to be strong enough, while the thicker middles resist the weight.
But the most direct solution is to put a vertical divider / support up the middle of the bed, supporting both your flat 1x6s and your platform. And being on edge it too could be a 1x plank, of whatever width / height you neeed to reach up to the platform underside.
 
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cruiserpilot

Adventurer
You didn't say what thickness of plywood you are using. I can assure you that with 1x6 cross bracing, and 3/4" ply you wouldn't have a sag problem.
 

nater

Adventurer
Look at what goose gear is doing with aluminum extrusions... very similar... and people seem to enthusiastically (over) pay for them...
 

frgtwn

Adventurer
Torsion Box

What may work for you is a one piece torsion box. Designed and constructed well, it would only need to be supported on two sides, with no middle supports. And, it will be lightweight.

Construction is a little finicky, but not that troublesome. It is basically a wood grid of perhaps 1x2s glued to 1/4" plywood top and bottom for instance. Nails or screws can be used to hold it together until the glue dries, or another clamping method could be used.

If you need a two piece top, this would be somewhat of a compromise. If you can support it on the ends, it may work, but must be made thicker for the intended loads.

Lotsa ways to skin a cat.
Dale
 

itshanney

New member
To chime in on this thread, it smells like your building a space pen when all you really need is a pencil. Space pens are nice, and sometimes needed, but generally a pencil does the trick 98% of the time. Here is my pencil.

It's standard 5/8" plywood with "framed" runners to give it strength to support my fat butt. I have no doubt the platform has been loaded with up to 400lbs of human weight, gear weight and other kinds of weight. No sagging, warping, bending or anything. In fact, it's framed like a house. If your walls can hold up your roof, they can hold up my fat butt. Below are a few pictures. You can see the platform and then you can see that the platform also provides a great storage area that beautifully fits up to 7 of the Front Runner Cub Packs.

16695690281_7c9e267218_c.jpg

16074686264_4612ea59d6_c.jpg
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
yes exactly, the OP is approaching the issue backwards. He's established a desire and then is driving everything to fit it, no matter what extreme is necessary. Rather than starting with the problem and findign solutions that are 'good enough'. There's room in the problem for all sorts os simple and inexpensive design solutions. He left unstated the rationale for keeping the underside totally clear of obstructions and without that it's hard to make suggestions for solutions or fruitless if they just get dismissed / ignored because of some undisclosed criteria.
 
Hey Guys,

thanks for all the great suggestions. Its for my girlfriends truck and she likes to keep the full width of the bed open for lumber and as simple as possible. She actually came up with a very simple and cheap solution. 1x3 steel tubing, one support forward and rear. The platform is framed 1x2 with 1/4in ply sheeting in two sections. she can take it in and out alone in less that 2 mins, doesn't sag at all and was all less than $100. Under the platform 4 Really Useful Boxes 33l size fill the bed just perfect. Pics to come.
 

LadyH

New member
Clarifications and the solution

Clarifications:
1. I am the truck owner, the OP is my boyfriend who enjoys to make things more complicated then need be.
2. The original platform is 1/2'' ply sitting on upright 1x2's creating the armature of the platforms.
3. These platforms are then resting on the 1) the bedliner and 2) 1x6''

The Solution:
Insisting I avoid a center support and trying to not loose any vertical space with 2x6's, I ended up with 1x3 metal tubing. Two pieces running from side to side, sitting in the notches works perfectly, doesn't sag, and cost $30.

And yes, 80/20 does make Snow Peak look like the dollar store, bravo sir.

Platform (1 of 6).jpgPlatform (2 of 6).jpgPlatform (3 of 6).jpgPlatform (4 of 6).jpgPlatform (5 of 6).jpgPlatform (6 of 6).jpg
 

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