2006 LR3 build

[LtFuzz]

More boring non-4x4 stuff:

Halfway through my drive/move from AZ to WA.

I'm towing 5,400 lbs. This truck's gonna be workin for a living.

Over the first 650 miles, the LR3 averaged 14.4 mpg between 60 and 70 mph through mountainous northern Arizona. I'm pretty happy with that considering the 4.4L is basically pulling two LR3s. I doubt there are many gas pickups out there with LR3 refinement that'll give you significantly better numbers.

Having JUST come off a 4.6L, this trip really throws into stark relief what an obsolete piece-of-crap the D2 is for hauling.

I should have the LR3 in some PNW woods by the end of the week. More thoughts then.

 

[nwoods]

Cool. Keep up the reports!

 

[LtFuzz]

MPGs took a serious dive today under similar driving conditions. I can't get above 11 mpg. I thought maybe the trailer brakes got stuck or something, but not the case.

Weird.

 

[Howski]

MPGs took a serious dive today under similar driving conditions. I can't get above 11 mpg. I thought maybe the trailer brakes got stuck or something, but not the case.

Well, think of it this way, it's probably the same MPG you'd get with the D2 unloaded.

 

[LtFuzz]

... And there's the CEL. Part of me knew it was coming.

Anything common that would kill fuel economy? It's the passive indicator, not the ! LED one.



Update... Back up to 14mpg. Hmm. Gonna try to pull the code in Salt Lake.

 

[PhyrraM]

Don't have any specific LR3 advice, but in general a fuel economy drop and a CEL at the same time would point to an O2 sensor.

 

[LtFuzz]

Don't have any specific LR3 advice, but in general a fuel economy drop and a CEL at the same time would point to an O2 sensor.

Yeah, that was my first thought -- especially since at this mileage (70k) that's not uncommon on any vehicle

I'm convincing myself that because I've gained, lost, and gained again so much elevation in the past 24 hours that the motor is confused and popped a momentary rich condition.

Yeah, that's exactly what happened! lol

 

[lwg]

That kind of mileage is very typical when towing. We tow about 6500-7000 lbs (30' RV) with ours and I get between 10-11.5 MPG on average. Turns out even with the new EcoBoost F-150 you can get much better, just how it is when towing. I will say the LR3 is an amazing tow vehicle and as it turns out works great with a weight distribution hitch. I however bypassed the factory hitch because it sucks for actual towing. Opted for the Curt hitch which just feels better being tied to the frame at a few more points.

 

[LR Max]

Ugh. I want an LR3 now. If nothing else, just the comfort to and from the trail. For the trail, slap a 3M wrap on it to protect against pinstripes and go. I bet its a great rig.

 

[LtFuzz]

I'm getting the knock/rattle from the front suspension. Apparently this is super common and the genesis of the problem is a subject of some debate.

I think I'll start with the front swaybar bushings and go from there -- I'm reading some of Nwoods' posts on LRR and apparently the issue returned within 10,000 miles because the bushings are very poorly made.

Are there any good alternative sources for bushings? Edit: Looks like poly bushings are available and will eliminate the knock. $450 for the F/R set from AB, yow..

 

[PhyrraM]

There is also some discussion on Disco3UK that the Range Rover Sport arms are the same, but with better/stiffer bushings. Considering the generally better handling of the RRS, this seems likely.

 

[LtFuzz]

There is also some discussion on Disco3UK that the Range Rover Sport arms are the same, but with better/stiffer bushings. Considering the generally better handling of the RRS, this seems likely.

I saw that too -- but I'm reading that they're fluid-filled apparently and prone to leaking. I don't have the ability to press bushings in and out so I want a long-term solution. The poly bushes seem like the way to go, although there is some concern that the bushings are so stiff that they significantly transform the LR3's ride quality. Some LR3 drivers report that their DSC engages with the polys in there, too.

 

[KyleT]

the "new" lr bushings are sport bushings IIRC.

DO NOT DO poly. they will not last. OEM should get you somewhere near 60k miles. ball joints also wear out, investigate it thoroughly.

Get a GOOD alignment from a reputable dealer or specialty shop that knows rovers. many bushings were jacked by alignments done wrong and tires WILL pay for it.

change all the diff fluids and use high quality oil and hope that you can stave off the issues.

whats the code fault?

 

[LtFuzz]

whats the code fault?

Needs a new thermostat.

 

[proper4wd]

Thermostat is a typical failure, theres an o-ring inside that folds over and keeps the t-stat from closing completely. The engine then does not warm up according to the predicted algorithm and it throws a fault code.

With regards to the bushings, yes Sport bushings will fit. ALL of the bushings (LR3 and Sport) are fluid filled. Do not heat them with a torch to remove them. BOOM. Boiling hydraulic fluid everywhere.

Can't speak for the poly bushings but replacing the standard ones every 60-75k isn't so bad. Most of the labor is in pressing in/out the bushings. If you replace the whole control arm (with lower ball joint, which is a wear item at about 100k), the labor is significantly less. Make ABSOLUTELY sure an alignment is done by a qualified shop (preferably a dealer). These things are very sensitive to a half a degree here or there and there are some tricks most LR techs about them.