2006 LR3 build

[unseenone]

The Original front lower suspension arms were subsequently replaced with an improved version. The improved ones also included larger ball joints. Rebuilding them is a bear of a job, and costs more than the replacement arms if you pay someone to do it.

I recently replaced my front lowers, uppers, and rear bushings, as well as rebuilt the air shocks, among other things. It now rights like new or better (I replaced the stock dampers with Koni FSD's).

I would suggest the following items on a maintenance basis;

Change front and rear diff oils - now, and every 25-30k thereafter. Monitor for mud or foam due to water contamination.

Change transfer case oil, every 60k miles anyway..

Change Transmission fluid every 60-75k minimum particularly if you are towing, the Lifeguard 6 is only rated for about 75k kilometers regardless of what the dealer says.

Plan on changing the brake light switch in the cabin if it hasn't been done already, early models all eventually fail and cause faults due to arcing in the switch. If you head it off before a problem, you can carry the old one as a spare.

There's a spares write up, page 1 is a cowl inspection write up, page 2 is the spares write up I did with pictures if you're doing some remote treks that might be worth considering.

PM me if you need any additional information or links.

Here's a picture of one type of winch mount bumper.

 

[Jwestpro]

The Original front lower suspension arms were subsequently replaced with an improved version. The improved ones also included larger ball joints.

I recently replaced my front lowers, uppers, and rear bushings, as well as rebuilt the air shocks, among other things. It now rights like new or better (I replaced the stock dampers with Koni FSD's).

1- "suspension arms" are you saying new factory version or something else? Since what year did they become "new" and improved?

2- Aside from the Koni dampers, (I think Arnott is making something now too), are all the other parts factory bushings, etc?

 

[Jwestpro]

I'm getting the knock/rattle from the front suspension. Apparently this is super common and the genesis of the problem is a subject of some debate.
.

I've never had such issues on mine. 65k so far, lot's of weight too so you'd figure it would have happened already if it were going to at all.

Sorry to hear about the DII. Mine has been fine, although not driving it too much, but just enough, is surely a way to keep it from wearing out

 

[RiverCityDave]

the "new" lr bushings are sport bushings IIRC.

DO NOT DO poly. they will not last. OEM should get you somewhere near 60k miles. ball joints also wear out, investigate it thoroughly.

Get a GOOD alignment from a reputable dealer or specialty shop that knows rovers. many bushings were jacked by alignments done wrong and tires WILL pay for it.

change all the diff fluids and use high quality oil and hope that you can stave off the issues.

whats the code fault?

And make SURE that you randomly capitalize words for EFFECT, so that people know when youre SERIOUS.

Thank you, I am now in contact with them. We will see what happens!

Always someone looking to buy a broken Land Rover. Somethings just need to die.

While I liked the 2004 at first, and it certainly looks great, I was overall pretty ambivalent about the truck. It was cramped, the handling was mushy, and the interior was literally falling apart around me. It was a very expensive mistake and I'll never drive another.

A MEN brother. NEVER. (note my capitalization, to emphasize how SERIOUS I am)

I'll be interested to see how this goes for you long term. I'd be lying if I didn't admit to considering this same road when my DII died. I went Landcruiser instead, no regrets, but the princess has a soft spot for Solihull...

 

[jhawk]

I'm thinking of doing the polybushes in my front arms as well. I'd like to hear from someone who has actually run them in their truck. This seems to be one of those products that get repeatedly bashed, but via second hand experience only.

 

[Fivespddisco]

I'm thinking of doing the polybushes in my front arms as well. I'd like to hear from someone who has actually run them in their truck. This seems to be one of those products that get repeatedly bashed, but via second hand experience only.

Big Erik has been running them in his truck for over a year now without any issue and more importantly I have not had a warranty or complaint from any sets we have sold

 

[unseenone]

1- "suspension arms" are you saying new factory version or something else? Since what year did they become "new" and improved?

2- Aside from the Koni dampers, (I think Arnott is making something now too), are all the other parts factory bushings, etc?

1. I am saying that LR replaced the OEM ones with new improved ones. They come with the bushings, larger ball joint.

2. I didn't like the looks of the Arnott ones, they seem awful cheap but do come with a warranty. The Koni have been popular overseas. They seem a bit softer to me, which means a better highway and off road ride. I ordered new seal kits, and cleaned, inspected and retreated the air bags.

PM me if you want and I'll dig up the part numbers or contact fivespddisco who should be able to supply you all the parts except the Koni.

Fitting bushings is a tough job, and costs more in labor than buying new arms if you are paying someone to do it, in my opinion. I have a set of used arms left over, upper and lower I believe.

 

[chris snell]

PCS to Lewis, eh? We PCS up there in June.

 

[LtFuzz]

PCS to Lewis, eh? We PCS up there in June.

Only been here for a couple weeks and already love it.

 

[dcwhybrew]

Ugh…reading this makes me miss my 06 LR3. Sold mine in August with 114k miles and still running like new. Bought a damn 06 Yukon because I would (have been) traveling extensively through west TX/southeast NM where there isn't any LR service support. I knew the LR3 could probably take the 4-5k miles per month, but I wasn't sure about the reliability. From what I've read, I may have jumped the gun.

Enjoy your LR3. Your comparisons vs the discos are spot on. My 05 and 06 Lr3s were light years better than the discos and RRs(classic & P38).

 

[KyleT]

And make SURE that you randomly capitalize words for EFFECT, so that people know when youre SERIOUS.
A MEN brother. NEVER. (note my capitalization, to emphasize how SERIOUS I am)

I'll be interested to see how this goes for you long term. I'd be lying if I didn't admit to considering this same road when my DII died. I went Landcruiser instead, no regrets, but the princess has a soft spot for Solihull...

I was driving home a point using MY experience.

Yes we pulled some aftermarket polybushes out of a car because they were torn up and squeeking LOUD. Don't know what brand or anything. this was a few years ago though.

We did determine that some OEM bushing failures were in part from crappy alignment shops not loosening the eccentrics all the way and/or the eccentric bolts seizing/rusting into the bushing.

the new bushings are the same for LR4 IIRC. a new design. Yes the complete arm assembly is much easier to replace. Cheaper I don't know.

 

[dbrum]

Looking for advice - never owned an overland vehicle before. I ride ADV on a KTM 690 a lot and other overland bikes, but have zero experience with trucks/suv's.

I am looking at a 2006 LR3 w/86K miles. Factory build, nothing added - just routine maintenance done.

What kind of concerns/issues should I be aware of with these things for an overland build? Anything know issues with the 2006 years?

Anyone in the Bay Area I can get to look at it and give me a deep dive inspection report on it?

thanks

 

[t42beal13t]

Looking for advice - never owned an overland vehicle before. I ride ADV on a KTM 690 a lot and other overland bikes, but have zero experience with trucks/suv's.

I am looking at a 2006 LR3 w/86K miles. Factory build, nothing added - just routine maintenance done.

What kind of concerns/issues should I be aware of with these things for an overland build? Anything know issues with the 2006 years?

Anyone in the Bay Area I can get to look at it and give me a deep dive inspection report on it?

thanks

The first two that jump out at me are-
Control arm replacement
Compressor replacement

 

[DiscoNels]

I bought my 2006 with just under 70k miles on it in 2013. I pretty much immediately rebuilt then replaced (a year later) the air compressor for the suspension as preventative maintenance.

When people mention the control arms they are referring the the bushings which wear out quickly on a 6000-7000 lb. vehicle. I put orange Polybush in mine in 2015. I've also replaced the rear valve block (for the suspension). Replaced battery twices (once immediately and 2nd time last weekend), rotors/pads (they eat brakes, heavy vehicle), replaced an idler pulley, just replaced the alternator Monday at 119k miles, replaced the thermostat housing unit (it's an all plastic contraption that cracks and leaks red coolant) and a few drop links (in the suspension, but I off-road somewhat hard), and lets not forget the little plastic coolant T-valve that sits on the top of the engine under the plastic cover. It's a plastic T fitting with a brass bleeder nut on it. It's not a matter of IF but WHEN this will completely disintegrate and spew coolant all over the place, a super easy fix (replace with all brass if you find something, but it's a $15 part from dealer).

Overall, it's just a bunch of little things over time, easily managed. Owning any Land Rover, old or new, means that you need to stay on top of, and ahead of the maintenance and you won't have much, if any problems.

I hope this helps. Oh, one more thing...If you plan to own an LR3 then you pretty much need a diagnostic tool such as the Gap Diagnostics IID Tool (#1 choice), or the Nancom Evolution (I have both). They allow me to reset any faults, reprogram ECU's, and adjust suspension height at will, and a whole lot more.

Good luck!