95 GMC Jimmy 4x4 - Advice

[pistonhead76]

Hey guys new here. I just got a 95 Jimmy 4x4 4d. It has 103k on the odometer and runs strong/shifts solid. Got it for 1000 bucks. It does need some work, mostly cosmetic but its mechanically sound. Im going to put plugs and synthetic fluids in it this weekend. The purpose of the truck will be a mild trail/take the kids camping rig but also my daily driver. Im wondering what are the strong and weak points of the vehicle? What are its capabilities and what are the most common mods to make it more dependable and perform a little better? Advice on a mild lift too (2"?) The distant future plans for the truck will be a Mercedes 5cyl diesel swap so 4.3 engine mods arent high in the list. Feed back and advice is appreciated. Thanks fellas.

 

[1stDeuce]

The S10 chassis is very solid, but not loved very much in most circles... It's biggest downfall is a lack of ground clearance compared to toyotas of the same generation. A good tune-up is a great idea, but with you living in S. Florida, I would think you can skip the full synthetics... Normal oils are really good these days, and the biggest advantage of synthetics is cold weather flow. Being in Florida, there's some

For lift, I would check into the 2" Superlift kit if it's still offered. It included new upper control arms that allowed a little more droop travel, and shackles and an add-a-leaf for the rear IIRC. I just ran the arms on my old Sonoma, and made my own rear shackles. The main benefit of this kit is that it allows lift without losing droop travel, so the ride is good. It also doesn't drop all the brackets like the Rancho lift, so you actually gain ground clearance, which is the main purpose of a lift IMO. You should be able to fit a 30x9.50R15 without any trouble at all, and even without lift. A 31x10.50 will be a little tight, but should also fit if you keep the stock wheels, which I recommend. (Running aftermarket wheels with less backspacing will put additional stress on balljoints and steering, wearing out all those things earlier. They'll also make it drive like crap.)

Oh, and if you don't already own one, buy a grease gun and grease everything in the front end. (Upper and lower balljoints, tie rod ends, and the idler arm where it attaches to the frame and to the relay rod.) If I had a dollar for every S-10 I hear squawking around because nobody has ever greased the balljoints, I'd be a wealthy man!!

Check the glovebox to see if you've got the G80 rear locker option code. If you do, it will help when the going gets uneven. If you don't, you can start watching for an axle to swap in with the G80 at a junkyard, or just buy a rebuilt unit on ebay and swap it in. The G80 gets a bad rap, but it really works well for mild wheeling without any on-road issues, and will hold up fine with 31's and a somewhat respectful right foot.

The 4.3/4L60 combo is pretty stout, and will run forever if the PO changed the oil somewhat regularly.

Have fun with it!! Oh, and post a picture or two! We loves us some pictures!!
Chris

 

[pistonhead76]

Thanks Deuce! I appreciate the advice. I got the codes from the glovebox this morning to see what I have. The truck is pretty sound. I gave it the "once-over" this morning and except for a rats nest under the hood and momma rat chewed through a vacuum hose, I really could not find anything wrong with it. The PO gave me a binder full of service records too so it definitely was maintained (except for the paint).Theres a minor lope at idle when its cold but Im thinking its tune up related because when its warm it runs smooth. Ive been reading the 2 inch body lift is popular also to clear 31's, which I will most likely put on when the current 235's wear out. I will most definitely do the shackles and whatever it takes to lift the front properly. I will do some before and after pics when I do a project and put them up.

 

[1stDeuce]

To each his own, but I recommend you stay away from body lifting it at all. My experience has been that they cause all kinds of problems that you don't think of. For 31's on stock wheels, you should not need a body lift. The ZR2 blazers and trucks didn't have one, and they ran 31's, and the finders are the same. If you do have any contact, it'll be minor enough that a tiny bit of plastic trimming or a bit of hammering a seam flat will take care of it. Do the suspension, skip the body, enjoy a trans and t-case that shifts properly, and a fan that isn't eating the shroud, and skip the hassle of having to figure out how to fix any body mount bolts that are rusted solid and break off when you try to remove them. On a $1000 truck, a body lift is so not necessary!!
C

 

[pistonhead76]

10-4 on that. Since I posted last I had read a couple articles about how its a P.I.T.A. and doesn't do much. Its mostly aesthetic. I'll skip it. 100 bucks can be used elsewhere since this is a budget build. Thanks again Deuce.

 

[pistonhead76]

I found an RPO decoder and ran the codes on the sticker in my glove box. Not a bad options list. Any GM guys can do the same. Heres the link: http://www.gm-trucks.com/rpo-code-lookup/?find=RSB

Here's my options:

C3H GVW RATING 5,300 LBS
LIN PLANT CODE LINDEN, NJ, USASLL
YC6 : CONVENIENCE PKG, DECOR LEVEL #6
13I : INTERIOR TRIM, LT SMOKE GRAY (91)
C25 : WIPER SYSTEM, RR WINDOW
K34 : CRUISE CONTROL, AUT0MATIC, ELECTRONIC
R9Z CONTROL SALES ITEM NO.100
YBG TIRE REAR P235/70R15-102S WOL R/PE ST TL ALS1SZ
B84 Moldings, body-color bodyside
RYJ Cargo shade, rear retractable
XBG TIRE FRONT P235/70R15-102S WOL R/PE ST TL ALS1SL
B30 Floor Covering – Color Keyed, CarpetGU6
WDV WARRANTY WAIVER PARTIAL DEDUCTIBLE
Z88 Conversion Name Plate GMCA78
FF7 Arm RH Torsion Bar Spring Adj (F)
CGB EQUIPMENT ADDITIONAL MYANMARV73
ZY1 Color Combination, SolidA31
FF6 Arm LH Torsion Bar Spring Adj (E)N90
V54 Luggage rack, roof-mounted with chrome accentsZW7
AX2 KEY COMMON, VEHICULAR UNIQUE
FE9 Emissions, Federal requirementsN40
VXS VEHICLE COMPLETE
ZQ6 Power Convenience Package
AU3 Door locks, power programmableE55
N33 Steering column, Tilt-Wheel
U89 WIRING HARNESS CAR TRAILER
ZQ3 Convenience Package, Tilt-Wheel and cruise controlAUO
D55 CONSOLE FRT COMPT, FLOOR
NP5 Steering wheel, leather-wrapped
U73 ANTENNA FIXED, RADIOZM8
AP9 Cargo convenience net, trunk
D48 Mirrors, outside power-adjustable, body-color
NP1 Transfer case, electronic shift
U16 Instrumentation, tachometer
ZBG TIRE SPARE P235/70R15-102S WOL R/PE ST TL ALS7WH
AN3 Seats, front bucket with leather-appointed seating
DK6 Console: Roof, Interior
NF2 Emission System: Federal, Tier 1
U1C Audio system, AM/FM stereo with CD player
YD6 Rear Spring, Base Equipment
6WH COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP (6WH)
AJ1 Windows Deep Tint, All Except W/S & Front Door
DH2 Mirrorn I/S Front Van LH and RH, Illuminated, with Dual Sunshade
M30 Transmission: 4L60-E, 4-Speed Automatic, Electronic
UP8 RADIO PROVISIONS, AM/FM STEREO, INSTRUMENTATION
YD5 SPRING FRONT BASE EQUIPMENT
19U PRIMARY COLOR EXTERIOR, JET BLACK (05)
AG1 Seat adjuster, driver 6-way power
C60 Air conditioning, single-zone manual
L35 Engine Gas, 6 Cyl, 4.3L, CPI, V6, 90 DEG, HO
TFE SALES INCENTIVE COMMITMENT PLUS
YD3 Differential, driver-selectable locking rear/YD3 AXLE (BASE EQUIP) FOR SCHEDULING GVW PLATE
132 TRIM COMBINATION LEATHER, GRAY (2) (96)
JM3 BOOSTER BRAKE, 240MM TANDEM, HIGH FLOW
GU6 Rear axle, 3.42 ratio
RSB Restraint: Front Seat, 208, Auto, Manual, Active