A 2nd battery (AGM U1) added to power my ARB Freezer Fridge.

off-roader

Expedition Leader
On one of our 4x4 trips, I saw a mod from Michael (Grasscat) that was just 'BRILLIANT!' (to quote a slogan of my favorite beer). He essentially bought a small (U1 sized. Interstate DCM0035 ~$70-100) 12v gel cell battery & mounted it to a base which he stores in the back of his rig. He then made up 2 wiring harnesses.


The first harness simply had a female 12v socket plug on one end, and 2 ring terminals on the other end. This is what he used when he needed to power his fridge overnight. He simply plugged the fridge's male 12v dc plug into it.


His second harness, he used to recharge the battery while driving during the day. This consisted of a Male 12v dc plug on one end, and 2 ring terminals on the other end. This he simply plugged into the rear 12v dc outlet in his Montero

Building it...

For the battery base/mount I used...
1) An old 1/2" thick Poly/UHMW chopping board as the base.
2) A standard adjustable battery clamp to hold it to the base.
3) Two 5/16" T-nuts on the base.
4) Two 5/16" wing nuts and washers.
5) Two sections of 5/16" threaded rod, cut down to ~ 1" taller than the bracket height.


Steps...
1) Locate/place the battery where you want it on the base. I chose to put it centered lengthwise but over to one side width-wise.
2) Remove the battery while remembering its location then place the battery hold down where it would normally go. Doublecheck the location as needed (measure twice, cut once as they say) then mark where you will need to drill the mounting holes using a pen.
3) Once your sure about the hole locations, drill a small pilot hole for beach side of the bracket all the way through the board.
4) Using a drill that's the same size as the shaft of the T-nuts, drill the 2 holes part way through on the first side.
5) Turn the board over and drill the hole all the way through from the other side.
6) Using a hammer (for wood) or vice (for UHMW), install a T-Nut into each hole from the bottom of the board.
7) Turn the base over and thread one end of the all thread into the hole enough that it bottoms out without extending past the bottom of the base.
8) Place the battery in place between the threaded rods.
9) Put the Battery Bracket in place making sure its as centered on the battery as possible. Tighten the bracket in place with the wing nuts using washers between the nut and plastic bracket so you don't inadvertently damage the bracket.


All you need to do now is build the two wire harneses. One with a female 12v socket. The other with a male 12v socket.


For both the center terminal in the connector is the positive lead. This should be attached to the + (positive) terminal of the battery. The other wire is attached to the - (negative) battery terminal.



HTH.image.jpg
 
why not just build a male to male jumper cable. You wouldn't have to disconnect from the battery, just plug the jumper into your power outlet and the outlet connected to the house battery.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
why not just build a male to male jumper cable. You wouldn't have to disconnect from the battery, just plug the jumper into your power outlet and the outlet connected to the house battery.
Sorry about the late reply. Yes, I am. The 2 wire harnesses are actually a Y cable to allow me to charge the battery while running the fridge off the one rear outlet.
 

Stumpalump

Expedition Leader
The ARB is finicky when it comes to having a good battery and it needs more than about 12.2 volts or it blinks error. The problem is bad enough that ARB came up with and sell a heavy wire harness to wire the fridge directly to the battery. The claim is that peristaltic voltage loss to the cigarette plug and the associated factory wiring are not up to par. BS... The fridge just needs max voltage and an older or weak battery causes the fridge to stop. Sure the heavy wire is going to help but it's a problem that this fridge has. An old or weak battery will start and run a vehicle but it won't run the fridge very well. In my rig I carry a gel battery like you have that is 31amp hour. After playing the ARB battery game I went to running it exclusively off of the good but small gel cell. It will last two days in temps below 70 and I'd guess a full day in the heat. That's OK and I used your basic method but its not much run time. One problem besides being small is that a gel cell takes on a charge slower than a lead acid batter. Running the vehicle for 15 minutes will charge it but only a little. Something to keep in mind but overall I liked and used mine like that for a few trips. I since went to using 5 of the small batts and they seem great. The are really nice if you use an isolator that has the .7 Volt drop due to the diode because gel cells prefer a lower charge voltage. Full voltage from an alternator is supposed to be hard on them but not a deal breaker in my opinion and the advantage of not running your fridge off of your cranking battery is priceless.

Edit: I just noticed gel was mentioned but your using agm. I'll leave the gel info in for the next guy.
 
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off-roader

Expedition Leader
Well, technically its being charged off the 12v accessory outlet which is at a much lower charge rate versus straight off the alternator.
 

wrcsixeight

Adventurer
ARB uses a Danfoss compressor right?

Danfoss recommends running the power lead right to the battery, and fusing it there. And not just for reasons of voltage drop, but shared power feeds with other devices might cause surges which can damage the electronic compressor controller, which is a 200$ replacement cost.

http://www.ra.danfoss.com/Technical...nit_101n0600_12-24vdc_08-2011_dehc100m602.pdf

I have put my fridge on a 12 volt extension cord while modifying the cabinet. The danfoss protested, and would tune the compressor and fan on then shut off the compressor and let the fan run. This freaked me out thinking my fridge had failed, but it was purely a voltage drop issue.

I'd never run a fridge off a factory ciggy plug receptacle. Dedicate the fridge's power feed as recommended by the manufacturer of the compressor.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
I see no issue with it as long as the wiring is of sufficient size. A medium-size capacitor (or small bank of caps) around 15,000-20,000µF right next to your DC socket(s) should filter out any surges or spikes from other equipment running on the same line.

And 'tis true, AGM and Gel Cell are two different types. Interstate DCM0035 would be an AGM.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
15,000-20,000 microfarads. (@25VDC or higher preferable)
(That would be 0.015-0.020 F if you prefer)

(these are smaller caps, not those big huge ones like the freaks with giant car stereos use).

One like this can work, or 3-4 of the 4700µF ones from this page (yes, in parallel).

There's also ones with easy-to-wire screw terminals like this on ebay, though they tend to be a bit larger physically.
 

spikemd

Explorer
Its a decent design but too much work for me. You can get the same power (35ah vs 33ah) with the GoalZero Extreme 350 power pack and it has the charge controller built into the unit and is sealed. Allows for charging via 110v, 12v car, or solar panels. I just bought one to run my fridge at night on the trail as well as lights around camp. They also have an inverter so you have USB and 110v outputs if you want. Plug and play.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
Its a decent design but too much work for me. You can get the same power (35ah vs 33ah) with the GoalZero Extreme 350 power pack and it has the charge controller built into the unit and is sealed. Allows for charging via 110v, 12v car, or solar panels. I just bought one to run my fridge at night on the trail as well as lights around camp. They also have an inverter so you have USB and 110v outputs if you want. Plug and play.

Really? At nearly 4x the cost? I think your comparing apples to oranges, LOL...
 

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