legendaryandrew
Adventurer
She did well for the heavy tank she is. Helped pull an F250 out too! In the untouched areas, it was about 18" deep, and for the most part, had no issues getting around.
Action shots! 2003 Suburban 2500 8.1 vs. Mother Nature
- Thread starter legendaryandrew
- Start date
legendaryandrew
Adventurer
Uh, what do you wanna know? It was attached when I bought the truck. If memory serves, it's screwed/bolted on the outsides, with 2 support struts that are 3m'ed to the glass.
'05TJLWBRUBY
Adventurer
Man that's a great looking Burb! Nice work! Where did you head to for the trip? Still getting snow this morning which is great.
Best of Luck,
Mike
Best of Luck,
Mike
legendaryandrew
Adventurer
Went up to Beckler River and Old Cascade Hwy, up in the Cascades, Stevens Pass area. Thanks!
jeep-N-montero
Expedition Leader
Keep that snow coming, more than 3 feet in the last 2 weeks out here in Utah, that is more than we had last year for Nov-Feb combined.
legendaryandrew
Adventurer
I'm terrible at documentation, so there is one, but it's not very informative. Besides, I haven't actually done much to the truck beyond the lift and tires so far. It'll probably be another year, after a hopeful regear and traction aid, plus cb, possibly custom roof rack. We'll see, but I definitely plan to document better from here out.
rayra
Expedition Leader
I was curious, it didn't look stock. All of ours have been Z-71 style with its different rack. I wasn't sure if that was part of the normal LS/LT accessories, or it was some aftermarket piece. I like the idea of it and I'm wondering if it would help the mileage on my Sub or if I could even install it without interference with the back end of my Z-71 rack / roller. I do a lot of highway driving, too fast, and anything that helps with conformal airflow would be good. Was there a brand name on it?
eta
saw you rack comment too. The Z-71 racks are kind a deep and robust. I've been intermittently looking for some accessories that will attach to it or considering fabricating my own. In another discussion elsewhere some of us were talking about the benefits of painting the roof white or shading it, to keep vehicle interior heat down. I'm considering an aluminum plate up top, as a floor for the factory rack. And finding out what kind of connectors / fasteners I can use with the factory rack rails.
Here's a pic I took of my roof, that I'm using for sketching out different layouts. You can see the Z-71 rack details pretty well. It might be of interest to you if you haven't set your mind on a bigger basket design
I'm stuck driving mine in a handful of parking structures as part of my normal routine, was in one today that I only had 2" of top clearance in, as my k1500 sits. When I put fresh springs and shocks on it this coming year I might not even fit there. So that's part of why I'm looking to adapt my existing rack and with stuff that doesn't stick up any higher than it already does.
none of that may be of any concern to you, just putting the idea and info out there for anybody.
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upcruiser
Perpetual Transient
Copy that. I have a 2004 2500 Burb, trying to find feedback on suspensions. Most kits' advertising for full size rigs seem to start with "improve the look" and I get the feeling actual off-road performance is a second thought. How has your setup worked for you?
legendaryandrew
Adventurer
Now this is a question that I can answer with some authority. Some back story, I come from the 'tuning' scene (think Fast & Furious, without the underglow and living my life 10 seconds at a time). I was into imports for years, and my last couple cars were both Mitsubishi Evolutions (last of a true rally heritage from the M). I spent lots of money and lots of time, and lots more money, modifying those cars. I learned that when it comes to suspension, the term you get what you pay for really has meaning. And if you change a vehicle too much, or compromise its fun factor in any way, you wont drive it or want to any more.
All that being said, a good friend of mine had a GMT900 Silverado with an RCD 6" lift that rode like ****. Actually, it made **** feel like riding in a Caddy. I did not want that. I did lots of reading, and lots of looking around, and the only thing that came up time and again for suspension companies for Chev was Cognito Motorsports. I read mostly only good things about them (I am not affiliated in any way, and only speak of my experience here). I looked into their stuff, and liked what I saw design and quality wise, so I called them, and ordered their 4-6 inch non torsion bar drop kit, with the upgraded UCA with bolt in ball joints, their steering kit, with their steering tie rods, and Fox 2.0 shocks. All said and done, it was ~3400 shipped to my door. A lot considering the magazine price for some of the other kits was in the range of 1500. I got home from work and checked out the pallet that showed up, and I was extremely impressed with just the packaging right off. Very nicely wrapped, everything was in boxes with formed foam padding. I started pulling it apart, and noticed that the instructions were very well written and seemed to explain the steps well. Things I liked about it: the welds looked very very good, the machine work was excellent, and the powdercoating appeared durable. I also liked that they redesigned the entire knuckle, making it taller. Their kit reuses the UCA chassis mount, and just uses a new cross member to mount the LCA, this requires a taller knuckle, and also gives the suspension better leverage over the wheel/tire, if that makes sense. After I was done, the only fitment issue I had, and I mean only, was the torsion bar. I had to buy an air hammer to drive it back into the bracket that they supplied. I also do not like the 3.5" lift block in the back. Not their fault, but it sucks for towing (my experience). It felt very squirmy while braking towing 5k lbs. I'm ordering new custom rear leaves from Alcan Springs in a few weeks to get me the same lift without blocks. They quoted me 720, and I'm hoping it helps. I don't tow often, but I also don't compromise if I don't have to.
So as it sits, for ride quality it's much better than stock, and my truck had the Autoride or whatever chev uses for their adjustable shocks in the NBS trucks. I wish it had more uptravel, but the front suspension is what it is. It's not a long travel pre-runner setup. It's a modified street truck.
Sorry for the book, I'm an over explainer lol. Here are the only pics I have from the day I installed the suspension.
Feel free to ask about anything else if I didn't sufficiently supply info. I'll sum up my experience with, I love how it looks, how it went on, and how it rides. I did 100% of the work myself in my garage over a year ago, and nothing has gone wrong with it. Nothing has come loose. Nothing has broken. I don't abuse my vehicles, but I don't baby them either.
Oh it does. It so does haha. Even with just a fairly quiet Magnaflow muffler, there is NO mistaking the engine for anything but a big block. Next up for it is a Raylar cam, new valve train, and hopefully the c&c aluminum heads. I'd love to get a 10:1 compression engine with better thermal efficiency. Maybe even get another mpg or 2 out of it!
All that being said, a good friend of mine had a GMT900 Silverado with an RCD 6" lift that rode like ****. Actually, it made **** feel like riding in a Caddy. I did not want that. I did lots of reading, and lots of looking around, and the only thing that came up time and again for suspension companies for Chev was Cognito Motorsports. I read mostly only good things about them (I am not affiliated in any way, and only speak of my experience here). I looked into their stuff, and liked what I saw design and quality wise, so I called them, and ordered their 4-6 inch non torsion bar drop kit, with the upgraded UCA with bolt in ball joints, their steering kit, with their steering tie rods, and Fox 2.0 shocks. All said and done, it was ~3400 shipped to my door. A lot considering the magazine price for some of the other kits was in the range of 1500. I got home from work and checked out the pallet that showed up, and I was extremely impressed with just the packaging right off. Very nicely wrapped, everything was in boxes with formed foam padding. I started pulling it apart, and noticed that the instructions were very well written and seemed to explain the steps well. Things I liked about it: the welds looked very very good, the machine work was excellent, and the powdercoating appeared durable. I also liked that they redesigned the entire knuckle, making it taller. Their kit reuses the UCA chassis mount, and just uses a new cross member to mount the LCA, this requires a taller knuckle, and also gives the suspension better leverage over the wheel/tire, if that makes sense. After I was done, the only fitment issue I had, and I mean only, was the torsion bar. I had to buy an air hammer to drive it back into the bracket that they supplied. I also do not like the 3.5" lift block in the back. Not their fault, but it sucks for towing (my experience). It felt very squirmy while braking towing 5k lbs. I'm ordering new custom rear leaves from Alcan Springs in a few weeks to get me the same lift without blocks. They quoted me 720, and I'm hoping it helps. I don't tow often, but I also don't compromise if I don't have to.
So as it sits, for ride quality it's much better than stock, and my truck had the Autoride or whatever chev uses for their adjustable shocks in the NBS trucks. I wish it had more uptravel, but the front suspension is what it is. It's not a long travel pre-runner setup. It's a modified street truck.
Sorry for the book, I'm an over explainer lol. Here are the only pics I have from the day I installed the suspension.
Feel free to ask about anything else if I didn't sufficiently supply info. I'll sum up my experience with, I love how it looks, how it went on, and how it rides. I did 100% of the work myself in my garage over a year ago, and nothing has gone wrong with it. Nothing has come loose. Nothing has broken. I don't abuse my vehicles, but I don't baby them either.
Oh it does. It so does haha. Even with just a fairly quiet Magnaflow muffler, there is NO mistaking the engine for anything but a big block. Next up for it is a Raylar cam, new valve train, and hopefully the c&c aluminum heads. I'd love to get a 10:1 compression engine with better thermal efficiency. Maybe even get another mpg or 2 out of it!
legendaryandrew
Adventurer
I was curious, it didn't look stock. All of ours have been Z-71 style with its different rack. I wasn't sure if that was part of the normal LS/LT accessories, or it was some aftermarket piece. I like the idea of it and I'm wondering if it would help the mileage on my Sub or if I could even install it without interference with the back end of my Z-71 rack / roller. I do a lot of highway driving, too fast, and anything that helps with conformal airflow would be good. Was there a brand name on it?
eta
saw you rack comment too. The Z-71 racks are kind a deep and robust. I've been intermittently looking for some accessories that will attach to it or considering fabricating my own. In another discussion elsewhere some of us were talking about the benefits of painting the roof white or shading it, to keep vehicle interior heat down. I'm considering an aluminum plate up top, as a floor for the factory rack. And finding out what kind of connectors / fasteners I can use with the factory rack rails.
Here's a pic I took of my roof, that I'm using for sketching out different layouts. You can see the Z-71 rack details pretty well. It might be of interest to you if you haven't set your mind on a bigger basket design
I'm stuck driving mine in a handful of parking structures as part of my normal routine, was in one today that I only had 2" of top clearance in, as my k1500 sits. When I put fresh springs and shocks on it this coming year I might not even fit there. So that's part of why I'm looking to adapt my existing rack and with stuff that doesn't stick up any higher than it already does.
none of that may be of any concern to you, just putting the idea and info out there for anybody.
I mentioned to my gf a while ago I may paint the roof white. It was 105 degrees at the Overland Rally last summer, and my truck which is also my mobile bedroom, is BLACK. Not comfortable. I did see a guy there with this on his truck, and he loved it:
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Shade-Mesh-Tarp-10/dp/B009LL62H4
His may have been a different brand, but it was a similar product. I'm definitely picking one up before summer hits.
As for the roof rack, mine has the same style as yours, just yakima cross bars instead of factory. I too was thinking of attaching whatever I come up with directly to it. I'd like to do a heavy dutyish aluminum rack similar in design to ARB's, and maybe even do a full length. Cost may force me into using steel though. We'll see. I'm still trying to figure out if I'm going to eventually do a RTT, or make a sleeping platform inside, and store my stuff on a rack. Platform is looking better and better though, seeing as it does rain a lot here (PNW), or is at least wet a lot, and I have dogs. If I do a RTT, and store my stuff inside the 'burb, I may not have enough room to store the pooches. We'll see what happens when I get me a welder haha
PGW
Observer
Did you have any clearance issues with the front driveshaft hitting the exhaust pipe since the front diff was lowered? I saw one instance where a guy with an 8.1L truck had to have the drivers side down pipe modified with the Cognito 4-6 because of that but I am not sure if it is an issue with the SUV's. I'm planning on putting a Cognito 4-6 on my 8.1L Yukon XL sometime this summer. I'm also doing an NP241 swap so I will have to mess with the driveshafts anyways.