Air compressor lines?

[RoundOut]

First some background... I recently purchased a Viair 400C compressor and enough fittings to outfit a 4 bay garage (not quite, but that is what it seems like). I am relocating my batteries to the rear behind my differential under the bed and plan to locate my compressor where the stock battery was in the front left of the engine bay. I have an air tank, which will be right behind the batteries under the bed. With the rear lighting, relocated batteries, backup sensors, and compressor, I have (or will have) no less than 8 cables from 16 gauge to 2/0 guage, plus an air line.

The air line that comes with the remote mounting kit that Viair sells, is a black poly line of some sort. I have similar line on my home's swimming pool chlorinator system and it becomes very brittle over time (a year). It gets sun only in the afternoon, but is exposed to chlorine gas constantly, so maybe that is why it doesn't last more than a couple years.

I plan to have quick connect couplers for air accessories at two opposing corners of the vehicle, for ease of airing up tires and helping out others. The pressure switch I purchased cuts off at 150 psi and comes on at 120 psi. Therefore, the pressure in the line will always be at least 120 psi. I am having trouble imagining the poly line lasting more than a few years without failure.

The check valve will be at the end of the braided leader, right before the manifold. Near the compressor, I'll have a pressure gauge off the manifold, plus a line to a front quick-connect, a pressure gauge line serving the gauge in the cab, an overpressure relief valve, plus the main line to the tank. Before the tank in the rear, I'll have another tee to a quick connect for the rear. Everything between the compressor, quick connects and tank will be at 120-150 psi at all times.

Now the questions...

1. Is the black poly line that comes with the remote mount kit a long-term solution?
2. I was at O'Reily's tonight and discovered hydrolic line, which is similar in I.D., but has braided steel reinforcement. I love to overbuild stuff to assure less repairs, so what do you think I should do? Use the poly line or go for hydrolic? It won't be more than about $50 for the hydrolic line with professionally crimped ends.

I am leaning toward using the hydrolic line, but already have the remote kit poly line. Anyone care to talk me out of the hydrolic route? I am all ears.


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[ntsqd]

The poly lines and "Instant Fittings" (as currently used by ARB) have gained widespread acceptance in industrial automation settings. I can't recall hearing that the tubing is a maint./replacement problem so what ever issues it might have in a vehicle will be solely due to exposure to stuff not present in automation. I like the poly tubing, when used with the "Instant Fittings" (search that term at mcmaster.com) for ease of install & routing. Black is always a good choice where sunlight exposure is a question mark as black polymers are usually that color due to anti-UV agents.

If you want overkill I'd recommend Aeroquip's FC332 hose used with Barb-tite or Push-Lok fittings. You'll have a lot more money and mass invested in those, but when well routed & secured you shouldn't ever need to replace them.

 

[Robthebrit]

It depends on the plastic, I replaced all of my metal airlines on the mog with plastic. Mogs have been using plastic using airlines 1978 and the sun, salt, dirt etc never seems to be a problem - these lines are used for airbrakes so I assume they were well tested!. The stuff I use is 4 and 6mm ID and its branded MB, don't know who actually makes it. Its available is all lengths.

Rob

 

[RoundOut]

Thanks, guys.

After getting the poly lines out of their boxes, they seem quite sturdy. I ran it in some blue plastic electrical conduit, alongside the control wires for my dual battery solenoid.

After further reflection, it was my experience with the chlorinator, and these lines being brittle because of the chlorine, that concerned me. I cannot imagine companies like ARB and Viair shipping this line as their primary compressor line for compressed air systems when the check valve is at the end of the leader, without knowing their toughness under stress. Let alone, the application as air brake lines.

I appreciate all the input you guys provided. It is comforting to know that the poly line will profide the needed durability.

 

[PhulesAU]

If you need more line, hit some of the truck parts stores. ( McCarty & 610 area) almost all lines are the "poly" type, the only problem I've had was due to a tye wrap coming off and allowing the tube to touch the exhaust. My truck ( Mack) has a rather complex air over hydraulic system, so I've got that stuff running all over the place. It's also easy to field repair, a ferule,pocket knife and 2 pairs of pliers.

 

[Grim Reaper]

The problem was the chlorine. It eats the plastic. I have used that material often and in fact I am going to use it to plumb my current rig with a similar compressor as yours as well as run a few lines in my garage.

I get the material rated 300PSI from a company local to me called "Royal Brass and Hose" http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/ See if they have a location close to you.

The same stuff is used on Transmission towers to keep the microwave horns inflated and dehydrated. Stuff does fine in the sun.

 

[Martyn]

With the poly airlines make sure your end cuts are done with a very sharp blade and they are at 90'. They sell special cutters for this purpose.

Dirt getting into the fittings seems to be a problem. On connections that will be "permanent" slip a section of shrink tubing around them. Pressure test the fitting to make sure it's OK. Slide the shrink tube over it and heat it up to shrink it.

Poly tube is rarely a problem, the fitting are more problematic.

 

[Robthebrit]

My truck ( Mack) has a rather complex air over hydraulic system, so I've got that stuff running all over the place. It's also easy to field repair, a ferule,pocket knife and 2 pairs of pliers.

Field repairs are why I switched over to plastic, the old metal pipes are a nightmare to work with, especially with metric dimensions. The best field repair you can hope for is duct tape, rubber hose and few hose clamps. Given that I need air for critical things like 4wd, lockers, brakes etc its good to keep it working.

 

[Mobryan]

Another vote for the nylon/plastic lines. I've had to do a few field repairs on my big truck (freightliner), and the fact that it can be done entirely with a Leatherman and a crescent wrench, in 2 minutes or less, is a GREAT comfort @ 2 a.m., 40 miles south of Valentine, NE


One caution, though. Always use a length of metal line @ the compressor, prevents the occasional heat based failure from using the comp. steadily for 20 minutes.

Matt

 

[ntsqd]

snip......
One caution, though. Always use a length of metal line @ the compressor, prevents the occasional heat based failure from using the comp. steadily for 20 minutes.

Matt

What I did there on the Sub's OBA was to use 10' of copper tube rolled into a coil and secured at both ends to the same thing. JIC tube nuts & sleaves + work's 37* flare tool made it easy to connect to.

 

[taugust]

I recently attended a demo given by an ARB rep. His explanation for them using thin plastic lines was the ease of repair as stated above. For reliability in the outback, simply using a couple fittings and a short length of tube, you have a quick field repair of a cut or abraded line.

That being said, I plumbed my OBA system with reinforced rubber hose by Goodyear, I think. I bought it from Kilby Ent. www.onboardair.com, along with their brass slip-on fittings, manifold, bulkhead fittings, quick disconnects, and caps. Everything has held up well for over two years. I shorted the legs on my Viair tank and mounted above the rear axle. The compressor is mounted inverted under the bed on the drivers side front.

Tim

 

[Robert Bills]

Brad Kilby (www.onboardair.com) sells high quality components. You can't go wrong with anything he sells.

However, FWIW, you can also use air lines from places like Harbor Freight. They are usually on sale and already have fittings on each end - just cut the hose to length, add two fittings, and you have two complete hoses, usually for much less than buying bulk hose of the same length and four fittings. Perhaps not as sophisticated than other systems, but I know many jeepers who have done this and never had a hose failure (even after 6-8 years of use).

 

[TxRider]

The problem was the chlorine. It eats the plastic. I have used that material often and in fact I am going to use it to plumb my current rig with a similar compressor as yours as well as run a few lines in my garage.

I get the material rated 300PSI from a company local to me called "Royal Brass and Hose" http://www.royalbrassandhose.com/ See if they have a location close to you.

The same stuff is used on Transmission towers to keep the microwave horns inflated and dehydrated. Stuff does fine in the sun.

UV can also rot some poly lines.

There are several types of plastic line, best to check the specs on what your buying and it's resistance to chemicals and UV. Though under a truck it's probably not getting a whole lot. Resistance to petroleum solvents is an issue too.

 

[JackW]

I used 3/8 poly lines and swagelock fittings - everything is under the truck so no UV exposure problem. I have run the lines to quick disconnect fittings at the front and rear of the Rover.

 

[spressomon]

I used SS braided line instead of the blue plastic that ARB includes. I had a local hydraulic hose specialty shop make it up for me. Worth the peace of mind for me...but then again it was only the front locker I had to run to.