Amateurs in Botswana – You too can cruise the African Bush!

Capt Jon

Observer
We are not the people you read about on Ex Portal and in OLJ. We did not courageously walk away from our jobs and homes and cruise the world. Like you we are full of admiration and no small amount of jealousy for those who do. We have jobs, a house, a limited budget, and have to juggle our desire to cruise the world with desire to spend holidays with family and old friends. But we just got back from an 8-day trip through the bush in Botswana and it was easy!
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We are Americans living and working in Dubai. We do have a great deal of off road experience driving in sand, but very limited experience camping as a couple. I grew up camping and backpacking, and my wife’s family did some time in an RV in KOA’s in the 70’s. Since moving to Dubai, we have camped some, but not as much as we’d like. Winter camping in the desert is so easy that it hardly feels like it prepares you for anything very adventurous. We had never spent more than one night out as a couple, and never had to string together a multi-day menu or trip away from restaurants, fuel stations, and hotels. And we had never camped anywhere you could trampled by an elephant on the way to the bathroom.
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This bathroom:
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(The bathroom at Dijara campsite. She's looking at the elephants feeding next to our firepit)
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cont . . .
 

Capt Jon

Observer
Being on this side of the world for a while, we decided to take advantage of it by traveling to places that are harder to reach from the States. Our first trip was to Tanzania, and we caught the Africa bug. All of the other destinations we had in mind seemed to fade away and we have been back four times since.
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At first we did guided trip, but I really wanted to do a self-drive. I started bugging my wife about a Botswana trip in 2013. This year in February (2016), my brother and I went back to Tanzania and rented a truck from the guide we had used on our previous two trips. We stayed in lodges and camps, but did not camp ourselves. But we did all of the driving and navigating without being eaten by lions or dying in a fireball on the Ngorongoro crater bypass, so my wife started to warm up to the idea.
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We booked a Botswana self-drive in late June through a great company who set up everything for us. We never saw Andy in person, but benefitted from his excellent arrangement of the logistics. He booked the vehicle, campsites, lodges, a couple of guided tours, and provided detailed maps and driving directions.
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We showed up at the Maun airport and were met by a representative from the rental company. At this point I was worried about the car. We had signed up for a late model Landcruiser 76 wagon with all the camping gear. Our Tanzania experience had been a little rougher, and I was wondering whether the actual car would live up to the booking. I didn’t need to be. If anything we got an upgrade.
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Day 1 – Arrival in Maun
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The representative from the rental company showed us how everything worked, how to set up the tent, explained the dual battery system and fridge, told us the best places to buy firewood and groceries, and then offered to let us follow him to the parks office to pay our entrance fees for the following day.
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The car was a 79 (dual cab pickup) instead, and came equipped with recovery gear, winch, lockers, air compressor, fridge, roof top tent, and all the camping gear we needed right down to bedding and a wildlife handbook. They even had the only functional and well lubricated high-lift jack I have ever seen in the wild. (Intelligently stored in a case behind the back seat instead of bolted to the outside of the car like a trophy.)
Because I know who reads this forum, I will focus a little more on the car. The spec sheet looks like a dream shared by many here:
Late model (60,000 kms) Land Cruiser 79 series double cap pickup.
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• 1HZ
• Lockers
• Snorkel
• Air Conditioning
• Garmin GPS (Tracks for Africa loaded)
• Alu-cab cap on the back.
• Drawer system
• Front runner roof rack
• Front runner water tank
• Front Runner spare tire grill (just like the one on my truck an home!)
• 2 front runner jerry cans
• Engle fridge
• Ezi-Awn Jazz RTT
• Ezi-Awn awning
• Folding chairs
• Solar shower
• Winch
• High-lift jack
• First aid kit
• Tool kit
• Axe
• Shovel
• Kinetic recovery strap
• Shackles
• Gloves
• Tire puncture kit
• Air compressor
• Tire gauge
• Grass net for the radiator
• Front runner large table (brackets inside the roof of the cap)
• Cooper STT’s – (two spares)
• Sand mats
• Complete set of pots, pans, dishes, etc… including a griddle and a dutch oven
• 2 single burner stoves, each with a 10lb propane tank
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Everything was quality gear that I would own myself if I camped enough to justify it.
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Having been on one self-drive I had some ideas on what to bring. Because you guys like lists, here’s a sample. The asterisks are next to the ones I used. The trip would have been great without them, but was smoother with them. I would pack the same stuff again:
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• First Aid Kit (incl. basic meds)*
• Tool Roll, duct tape*, baling wire, WD-40, rope*
• Tire Deflator*, plug kit, fuses
• Fire starter*
• Leatherman*
• Binoculars*
• Camera gear*
• Cigarette lighter expander and USB ports*
• Leather gloves*
• Warm clothes* (its winter there and gets pretty cold at night)
• Bug Juice (deet)*
• Wet wipes*
• Extra photocopies of itineraries, vouchers*, passports, drivers licenses, etc
• Paper maps*
• Flashlights*, extra batteries*
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Things that we didn’t bring, but would next time:
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• Spices – salt, pepper, etc… There was no problem getting them in Maun, but you feel silly buying so much more than you need.
• Steel French press
• Our GPS’s – We use Garmin Montanas to navigate the desert in the UAE. There was nothing wrong with the GPS they gave us, but it would have been easier to use one we were familiar with. I had done this on the Tanzania trip and simply forgot to get it out of the car before we left on this trip.)
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The Parks office was our first experience with Botswana parks personnel, and it was great. The lady at the parks office went through our vouchers to make sure everything was in order, when she had a question about something, instead of turning us away, she called camp where we were staying to sort it out. This fantastic young lady’s friendliness and willingness to help was repeated every time we dealt with anyone from the parks.
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After leaving the park office we headed into Maun for groceries and a general recon. We had a couple hours to scope out our grocery options with the plan of buying on the way out of town the next morning.
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We stayed the first night at Thamalakane lodge a few km north of Maun. The lodge was a typical mid-level African lodge. Good food, great friendly staff, and beautiful setting. My bride was not entranced with the toilet in the bedroom, but otherwise it was a great place. It was crowded with other self-drivers who were on their way south. We were headed north.
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Capt Jon

Observer
Day 2 – Maun to Moremi
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We had a great breakfast at Thamalakane the next morning and then set off to buy groceries and booze. We have no experience with planning the lengthy menu, traveling with a 12v fridge over rough roads, or elegant camp cooking, so we stuck with the basics. Steaks, pasta, bread, PB&J, oatmeal, bacon & eggs, coffee, snacks, beer and wine. We would later learn a few lessons about yogurt containers, juice containers, and eggs on rough roads. But at least the Engle was easy to clean.
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About 40 km north of Maun the pavement ended and the road became dirt and sand. It stayed that was for the next 700 km or so. We saw exactly 3 other vehicles in the 80Km between Maun and the South Gate entrance to Moremi. While in the Park we saw maybe five more cars over the next three days. Two of them at the gate on our way out.
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After an easy entrance to the Park, we found our camp site and used the rest of the day to drive around looking for game. We saw lots.
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As the afternoon went on we navigated back to the campsite and had our first experience setting up the roof top tent and making camp. There was a mix up with another couple who were also assigned Camp Site No. 6, but there were 6 or 7 vacant sites so they just moved us to another (better) spot.

South Gate camp site in Moremi is not terribly scenic, but the facilities are good. The ablution blocks are very clean and everything works. The sites are far enough apart that you aren't stepping on each other. The camp staff did play music for a while that night, but it wasn't obtrusive and we had a great evening. We also realized that we didn't yet know how to pack eggs.

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The next morning was a rush. We had to meet a boat at 10:00 am for an overnight booking on Mboma island at the Mboma boat station that was reportedly 3-4 hours away through the sandy tracks across Moremi. We pried ourselves out of the tent and made a quick breakfast of coffee and oatmeal and got on the road. As roof-top-tent novices, we were extremely impressed with how quickly everything came down and how easy it was to get on the road.

We made it to Mboma boat station with only one close call. We came around a corner and found ourselves sharing the road with a Kudu who seemed as surprised to see us as we were to see him. Then he jumped towards us and cleared the hood of the truck. Priceless. The photo below is not him (I'm not that fast), but you get the idea.

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We also had a close encounter with a Giraffe. Wildlife in Botswana seem to want to play chicken with the cars. As you move along, they stay on one side of the road trying to decide if they should cross before you get there. Some of them (especially the impala, but sometimes bigger stuff) decide way too late that they must get to the other side of the road and run in front of you. When you are creeping along on a game drive it's no big deal, but when you are actually travelling from point A to point B, it can be real exciting.

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More to come . . . .
 
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Dust999

Observer
Wonderfull to read about your experience in Africa and in Botswana specifically. We live in the US now, but have many, many miles and safaris under our belt in southern africa, with Botswana being our favorite by far. Like you write....it's not hard or difficult to do this....just get out there and experience the african bush. It will stay in your memories for the rest of your life.
 

Pntyrmvr

Adventurer
One of my favourite places in the world. Nothing like a Botswana sunset.


"Talk is cheap. Whiskey costs money."
 

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