redraif
The uphill battle begins
2001 3.0l 4wd auto 245,000 miles.
some back ground. Ok so I have the 2in body lift and just got the new tires. At the time the tires were installed, the shop said they suspect the shocks were going up front. He said the truck felt very leany side to side to him... body roll wise. I did the bounce test and it seemed ok. Even popped it over some speed bumps on video and it did not have excessive bounce. We assumed they were ok for now. I wanted to do a susp lift when it was truly time to do a shock swap, but at that time, we had just sunk way too much cash in the beast right then just getting it road worthy. Plus mom needed to borrow the truck. Mom could not drive it if I had done the Susp lift.
Mom had the truck for a while and we just got it back recently. She won't need it anymore as her car is fixed! YEAH!!!! So it was going to be the weekend toy. Again no hurries on anything. We were saving up to deal with the dang bad cat. But then we had to put it into daily duty when the civic blew one of its new used tires... Civic really needs 4 new tires. Had bought used tires to get buy. The Sport had been sucking so much cash to get road worth for Mom. So we had put the civic on hold longer then we should have. And then it bit us in the butt with a sidewall blow out. Of course it came when we were putting together our wedding (August 15th) and we had no extra $ again. Anyway, the sport has been pulling full duty since mid August. Again not a biggie, thought ok just till we bounce back from the wedding in a few weeks and could get tires on the civic.
But nothing works like that in my world. To add to the CELs and odd clattering... Now I noticed something new on the sport... I drove it into the garage after a rain (the tires were cleaned off due to the wet driveway) but the garage had dust on the floor. The Sport then picked up trace of dust on the tires and I saw it. There is cupping starting on the outer edge of the front tires. Really... like I need this on top of everything else...
So I know it can range as far as causes. But something suspension for sure. Could it indeed be the shocks? Or could it be something other then the shocks? Could it be just out of alignment? Or have the "alignment parts" failed, thus and alignment would be a waste without fixing bad parts first (tie rods, ball joints, bearings, control arm bushings, idler arm, sway bar bushings?)
It has not been aligned while we have had it, but I did not notice and crazy wear on the old tires, but they were a hot mess from the get go.. Daughter got them used. Do I maybe go somewhere that offers an alignment where they will "re-adjust" for free within a certain number of miles or time? Let them see if they can get it factory spot on (with a print out) with the existing suspension components? Usually they notice at that time if something is amiss right... aka won't align. Then rotate tires... front to back... Then go back in a month or so for a free check up to see if the alignment has held. If it holds then say ok... components are ok? Keep checking the alignment often?
Then there is the side of me that knows this beast has been neglected... it has 245,000 miles... Based on the looks of the bushings on the tie rods... everything has not been touched in a while. tierod boots could use replacing just cause they look bad. I could eyeball the joints then. See if they move smoothly. But at that point, things are apart... the effort has been made... is it really that much more to just replace them? With no background and known spotty care. Is it just safer to replace, to be sure. Yes that's $ I don't want to spend, but.... I plan to keep the rig and get it set up to be bullet proof and a safe occasional off road rig. Should I just "buy the insurance" of new parts to KNOW everything is 100%?
Do I have to use Mitsu parts or is something through rockauto or summit racing ok? Who is the best brand to use if I go the replace route?
Honestly I'm not good at diagnosing suspension stuff unless its obviously broken. I hate to just open my wallet and start replacing without a plan. But if it means just paying a shop an hourly rate to check and replace, I might be better ahead $ to throw parts at it... LOL! I mean it does have 245,000 miles. Low miles that would stupid, but with this many miles and no idea what the previous owner did! I feel sure I can replace the components (except bearings), I just don't have any idea how to tell what is bad. Yes I'm a girl, but I completed my own coil over conversion on the rear end of my fiero alone. Swapped all its bushings to urethane. Removed, painted and reinstalled all its suspension components. I lowered the Mustang and installed its camber plates.
Give me good instructions and I can do it.
Just was never taught to diagnose suspension failure. Just bought aftermarket and replaced for a tighter performance suspension.
Where do I start. And yes the Sport will be pulled out of full duty ASAP. The civic will be back on with new tires ASAP so I can figure this out. I'm not trying to eat up my good tires!
As I said earlier...I had planned to do a suspension lift in the near future, just not right now. But if there is a chance I have to replace the shocks, then I want buy the right stuff to plan for the lift. I don't want to buy shocks 2x. I have been told that the fronts don't need to be any special length even after you lift it with the torsion bar adjustment. So I will be ok to just do the fronts for now, but I want to buy right so I can match up to the rears. Not trying to run 2 different brands or styles. If I have to buy new ones I would rather buy correctly for the near future lift. I already have the spouse on board for the lift to come soon as we have been getting annoyed with mushy rear coils and want a stronger coil. So that means the lift is approved when the funds are available. I want to go 2in with either OME or Iron man. What ever is better for my rear coiled sport. I was planning Heavy duty in the rear and I hate the mushy OEM versions. Will stick with stock front Torsions for now and upgrade to heavy duty if I go to a bull bar in the future. I do plan on a winch though now matter what. Was going to set up a front mount hitch receiver and the winch on a removable hitch style platform. Easier to keep it clean and safe unless I'm off road or planning to drive in snow/ice.
sorry for the length post. better to lay it all out from the get go!
some back ground. Ok so I have the 2in body lift and just got the new tires. At the time the tires were installed, the shop said they suspect the shocks were going up front. He said the truck felt very leany side to side to him... body roll wise. I did the bounce test and it seemed ok. Even popped it over some speed bumps on video and it did not have excessive bounce. We assumed they were ok for now. I wanted to do a susp lift when it was truly time to do a shock swap, but at that time, we had just sunk way too much cash in the beast right then just getting it road worthy. Plus mom needed to borrow the truck. Mom could not drive it if I had done the Susp lift.
Mom had the truck for a while and we just got it back recently. She won't need it anymore as her car is fixed! YEAH!!!! So it was going to be the weekend toy. Again no hurries on anything. We were saving up to deal with the dang bad cat. But then we had to put it into daily duty when the civic blew one of its new used tires... Civic really needs 4 new tires. Had bought used tires to get buy. The Sport had been sucking so much cash to get road worth for Mom. So we had put the civic on hold longer then we should have. And then it bit us in the butt with a sidewall blow out. Of course it came when we were putting together our wedding (August 15th) and we had no extra $ again. Anyway, the sport has been pulling full duty since mid August. Again not a biggie, thought ok just till we bounce back from the wedding in a few weeks and could get tires on the civic.
But nothing works like that in my world. To add to the CELs and odd clattering... Now I noticed something new on the sport... I drove it into the garage after a rain (the tires were cleaned off due to the wet driveway) but the garage had dust on the floor. The Sport then picked up trace of dust on the tires and I saw it. There is cupping starting on the outer edge of the front tires. Really... like I need this on top of everything else...
So I know it can range as far as causes. But something suspension for sure. Could it indeed be the shocks? Or could it be something other then the shocks? Could it be just out of alignment? Or have the "alignment parts" failed, thus and alignment would be a waste without fixing bad parts first (tie rods, ball joints, bearings, control arm bushings, idler arm, sway bar bushings?)
It has not been aligned while we have had it, but I did not notice and crazy wear on the old tires, but they were a hot mess from the get go.. Daughter got them used. Do I maybe go somewhere that offers an alignment where they will "re-adjust" for free within a certain number of miles or time? Let them see if they can get it factory spot on (with a print out) with the existing suspension components? Usually they notice at that time if something is amiss right... aka won't align. Then rotate tires... front to back... Then go back in a month or so for a free check up to see if the alignment has held. If it holds then say ok... components are ok? Keep checking the alignment often?
Then there is the side of me that knows this beast has been neglected... it has 245,000 miles... Based on the looks of the bushings on the tie rods... everything has not been touched in a while. tierod boots could use replacing just cause they look bad. I could eyeball the joints then. See if they move smoothly. But at that point, things are apart... the effort has been made... is it really that much more to just replace them? With no background and known spotty care. Is it just safer to replace, to be sure. Yes that's $ I don't want to spend, but.... I plan to keep the rig and get it set up to be bullet proof and a safe occasional off road rig. Should I just "buy the insurance" of new parts to KNOW everything is 100%?
Do I have to use Mitsu parts or is something through rockauto or summit racing ok? Who is the best brand to use if I go the replace route?
Honestly I'm not good at diagnosing suspension stuff unless its obviously broken. I hate to just open my wallet and start replacing without a plan. But if it means just paying a shop an hourly rate to check and replace, I might be better ahead $ to throw parts at it... LOL! I mean it does have 245,000 miles. Low miles that would stupid, but with this many miles and no idea what the previous owner did! I feel sure I can replace the components (except bearings), I just don't have any idea how to tell what is bad. Yes I'm a girl, but I completed my own coil over conversion on the rear end of my fiero alone. Swapped all its bushings to urethane. Removed, painted and reinstalled all its suspension components. I lowered the Mustang and installed its camber plates.
Give me good instructions and I can do it.
Just was never taught to diagnose suspension failure. Just bought aftermarket and replaced for a tighter performance suspension. Where do I start. And yes the Sport will be pulled out of full duty ASAP. The civic will be back on with new tires ASAP so I can figure this out. I'm not trying to eat up my good tires!
As I said earlier...I had planned to do a suspension lift in the near future, just not right now. But if there is a chance I have to replace the shocks, then I want buy the right stuff to plan for the lift. I don't want to buy shocks 2x. I have been told that the fronts don't need to be any special length even after you lift it with the torsion bar adjustment. So I will be ok to just do the fronts for now, but I want to buy right so I can match up to the rears. Not trying to run 2 different brands or styles. If I have to buy new ones I would rather buy correctly for the near future lift. I already have the spouse on board for the lift to come soon as we have been getting annoyed with mushy rear coils and want a stronger coil. So that means the lift is approved when the funds are available.
I want to go 2in with either OME or Iron man. What ever is better for my rear coiled sport. I was planning Heavy duty in the rear and I hate the mushy OEM versions. Will stick with stock front Torsions for now and upgrade to heavy duty if I go to a bull bar in the future. I do plan on a winch though now matter what. Was going to set up a front mount hitch receiver and the winch on a removable hitch style platform. Easier to keep it clean and safe unless I'm off road or planning to drive in snow/ice. sorry for the length post. better to lay it all out from the get go!
