Another superduty lift dilemma

[wyattsf150]

So here's the problem. Sometimes I need to use my truck to haul gooseneck flatbeds cattle trailers ect. So I need to keep my truck as low as possible but I want to run the military take off 37s for the fact that there pretty tough, dirt cheap, and basically this is my do everything truck while the projects are under then knife.
My ideas:
1. Cut outs and leveling kit (but i think it'd rub my flatbed like crazy)
2. 4 inch lift which is as big as I'd really like to go but I still have concerns about rubbing
3. 6 inch lift which is taller than I'd like the truck to be and i don't think Theres enough adjustment in my trailers necks

Does anyone have any pearls of wisdome? Suggestions?

Thanks -Wyatt

 

[Buliwyf]

So here's the problem. Sometimes I need to use my truck to haul gooseneck flatbeds cattle trailers ect. So I need to keep my truck as low as possible but I want to run the military take off 37s for the fact that there pretty tough, dirt cheap, and basically this is my do everything truck while the projects are under then knife.
My ideas:
1. Cut outs and leveling kit (but i think it'd rub my flatbed like crazy)
2. 4 inch lift which is as big as I'd really like to go but I still have concerns about rubbing
3. 6 inch lift which is taller than I'd like the truck to be and i don't think Theres enough adjustment in my trailers necks

Does anyone have any pearls of wisdome? Suggestions?

Thanks -Wyatt

4" BDS lift
Bilstein shocks
Bushwacker fender flares
Carli longtravel Airbags
Icon adjustable trac bar.

The better question: What can't the truck do with a leveling kit, lockers, airbags, and 285/75r17's??? I'd avoid lifting it much if I could.

 

[B85]

I am getting springs from General Spring. You mite give them a call about springs. I had a problem with a Superlift kit.
Randy

http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_s/1817.htm?gclid=CMyc18Gz1bYCFY9eQgodiiAAfw

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Do you need a taller tire? Gonna do some off roading? I lifted mine 4" and 35s don't rub. I have to re-gear yet. The military 37s may be cheep but will really mess up your gearing. You said you tow, so count on changing your gears... front, and rear. If you want better off road capability, go for the lift, but it will cost you. If you just want cheep, keep her stock.

If you want a tough, capable tire, Toyo Open Country MTs can be had in E load range. Of course they ain't nowhere near cheep like military take offs. (that ain't cheep after gear changes)

 

[2025 deleted member]

Sounds like your going to spend a lot to save a little. I like buliwyf's better question idea.

 

[wallace2000]

I personally have a 2000 F250 and i put an Icon 4" lift on it and retained the factory blocks in the rear so it sits about an inch higher in the rear. I have loaded it down with a little over a thousand pounds in the bed and hooked up a 26' travel trailer at the same time and it leveled out then. Im running 37 12.5 r17s and the only thing i cut was the front bumper and i barley rub and thats at full steering lock at both sides. I cant offer any insight as to the gearing though as i have the 7.3

 

[BCHauler]

I had an 01 f250 with the factory 2" rear blocks. For a while I ran 35's on 16x10 rims without any kind of lift. No trimming was required and all I needed to do was pull back the fender liners in the front to prevent rubbing in turns. I would think that 2" up front would clear those tires. In the back, I don't know the difference in clearance with the flatdeck, but some of these trucks came with 4" blocks from the factory, so if yours doesn't have them, then you could put some in without issue.

As an fyi, I also had the v10 with the optional 4.30 gears. When I jumped up to the 35's I wasn't very happy with the power loss. These v10's like higher revs for their power band. If your v10 has the much more common 3.73 gears, you will probably hate 37's, especially given your need to tow heavy trailers.

 

[Buliwyf]

Stock tires- 4.10 for diesel and v10. 4.30 for 5.4L and 6.2L.
33" tires- 4.30 for all, or 4.56 for 5.4L
35" tires- 4.56, 4.30 is fair for diesels.

I have 4.10 stock in my F250. Wished I had 4.30, if I regear I'm going to 4.56 even though I only plan on going to 33" tires.

 

[911regular]

I run 4.10 in my 08 F-250 (6.4 diesel) with 37" tires, originally I had the stock 3.73,,,,4.33 would be perfect, 4.56 would be too low for my needs, I dont want to be screamin down the highway at 2000 rpm's at 65 mph.

 

[NothingClever]

Pardon the hi-jack. It's relevant but I admit a hi-jack nonetheless.

So, I have a 2005 SD F350 4x4 with a 6 speed MT turning 35" highway-friendly AT tires. In a wild-eyed fit of reckless abandon late one night while high on Mountain Dew and Snickers, I bought one with a black hole underneath the hood (a 6.0L diesel). However, I lucked out this year on taxes and will have the Bulletproof Diesel rocket scientists deal with the EGR and some other vulnerabilities to get the diesel powerplant reliable.

Anyways, I've got the flabbalicious 3.73 gearing. I'm putting a relatively lightweight but full-size camper on the back. After loading it up with water, food, clothes, bicycling and skiing equipment, I'll probably be weighing in around 2750 lbs. I had some high quality shocks (4.5" lift) and a tuned Deaver leaf pack installed so the load will be under control.

I'm curious if, despite the Low gear (meaning the first available gear while the transfer case is in 2H) I'll still be slipping the clutch frequently. My assumption is the Low gear is plenty adequate for getting a heavy load moving given that's what the truck was designed for.

I understand I'll get better gas mileage and more comfortable highway cruising performance with the 3.73 pumpkins but I also hope I'm not groaning everytime I have to take off from a red light. The truck will be used off road on occasion so trail performance will be important.

Any experience / insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[NothingClever]

Follow up....the reason this is important to me is I'm about to have an ARB locker installed in the rear 3.73 pumpkin and I'd rather not have to go back split it open again (along with the front).

Also, if I re-gear, will the ARB locker fit the next gear down? Something tells me it won't because (I think) the whole axle changes (Dana 50 to a Dana 60 or vice versa).

Thanks again for the expertise and insight from anyone/everyone.

 

[911regular]

I have ARB's in the front and rear, and the ARB is the same model for 3.73 or 4.10 gears.I would gear down a bit, your transmission will thank you.

 

[daddyusmaximus]

I run 35s with a 7.3 (I believe they don't rev like a 6.0) I'll be re-gearing soon from a 3.73 to a 4.30 and air lockers. I, however, don't care to go 70 or 80 on the highway, I'm building for the trails. So... I just drive like a grandpa.