ARE DCU height?

[Stringer44]

Hello,

I’m looking at ordering a DCU cap soon, and would love some feedback from others about their experience with different heights.

I have a reg cab, long bed F150. Ideally I’d like to maximize headroom, but I hate to take a monster hit on mpg. Was looking at either a 29” or a 26-32” wedge as possible middle ground compromises.

But I still wonder if getting a wedge that starts at cab height (23”) would be preferable. Maybe sacrificing some interior space would be worth it to not turn the camper into a sail.

I also plan to add their simple ladder rack, so maybe that would undo any gains I’d make in fuel efficiency from the lower profiles.

At any rate, I’d love to hear from anyone who’s had experience with these sorts of campers, to see if there’s a size I should focus on, or avoid.

Thanks very much!

 

[Dave in AZ]

Get the biggest one. Even truck popup campers like Ovrlnd, .project M, etc only lower mpg by 2. You're gonna take a 1mpg hit no matter what, might as well get the good one.

 

[Stringer44]

Get the biggest one. Even truck popup campers like Ovrlnd, .project M, etc only lower mpg by 2. You're gonna take a 1mpg hit no matter what, might as well get the good one.

Good advice. Thank you. Do you have any experience with their ladder racks? I definitely want a rack of some sort, but am not sure if there’s would be best, or if I should wait and get a lower profile one from a company like Thule or Yakima. Thanks!

 

[FAW3]

One thought as to cap height: think about your bed/cot situation and select your cap height carefully. Likely you will want to insulate the cap, likely put something down on the floor like a Bedrug and both will reduce headroom just a bit.

Over two builds I learned that you will want the cap height, bed height and YOUR height to work together and allow you to sit up comfortably in your bed.

 

[Stringer44]

One thought as to cap height: think about your bed/cot situation and select your cap height carefully. Likely you will want to insulate the cap, likely put something down on the floor like a Bedrug and both will reduce headroom just a bit.

Over two builds I learned that you will want the cap height, bed height and YOUR height to work together and allow you to sit up comfortably in your bed.

Good call - thank you. Will definitely keep the end result in mind before I begin. Do you have one of these? Which height did you go with?

 

[chet6.7]

I have an ACU with a lower front and a ladder rack. The bugs on the front of the ladder rack are higher than the front of the cap. I could have gone with a cap the same height at the front as the back, and it would have been as aerodynamic IMO. Go for height IMO. With the weathertech pack rat and some insulation under my bag, my head almost touches the ceiling, insulation in the ceiling as well. Are you going to have a cab mounted roof rack? That changes the airflow as well.

 

[Dave in AZ]

I was going to buy one. The unbelievably bad customer service to order one, and dealer lack of knowledge or interest, stopped me. Half the products are not visible on their terrible DCU website, and the ones you want for iverlanding are the ones missing. You want the vertical sides, radius front one. I researched every camper buildout I could find, that was the consensus from folks who had them. But that model doesn't even show up!

Im in Phoenix with some giant Tom's Camperland and Camping World as their dealers, yet both these guys were clueless on available products and just really didn't care about a pickup topper.

So I bailed on this idea, and am absolutely glad I did. Went to a campershell with popup tent roof instead, soooo much better. Not far off in price for some.
LonePeak is about $7000, and Topo toppers Badlander is $8000. Gofast similar, though I wouldn't get one of those.

 

[chet6.7]

I was going to buy one. The unbelievably bad customer service to order one, and dealer lack of knowledge or interest, stopped me. Half the products are not visible on their terrible DCU website, and the ones you want for iverlanding are the ones missing. You want the vertical sides, radius front one. I researched every camper buildout I could find, that was the consensus from folks who had them. But that model doesn't even show up!

Im in Phoenix with some giant Tom's Camperland and Camping World as their dealers, yet both these guys were clueless on available products and just really didn't care about a pickup topper.

So I bailed on this idea, and am absolutely glad I did. Went to a campershell with popup tent roof instead, soooo much better. Not far off in price for some.
LonePeak is about $7000, and Topo toppers Badlander is $8000. Gofast similar, though I wouldn't get one of those.

I don't balme you, there are pictures of the lousy welds on mine somewhere on this site. If the other campers available now were available back then I would bought something else.

 

[Stringer44]

I have an ACU with a lower front and a ladder rack. The bugs on the front of the ladder rack are higher than the front of the cap. I could have gone with a cap the same height at the front as the back, and it would have been as aerodynamic IMO. Go for height IMO. With the weathertech pack rat and some insulation under my bag, my head almost touches the ceiling, insulation in the ceiling as well. Are you going to have a cab mounted roof rack? That changes the airflow as well.

View attachment 811913

That’s great to know. Do you like your ladder rack? I initially figured I’d get one, but am now reconsidering based on aerodynamics. Not sure how often I’d use it. I probably won’t get a cab mounted rack. I’ve got a regular cab, so space and options are a little limited anyways. Was initially thinking a 23-29” wedge, but based on what you said I might go 26-32”.

I was going to buy one. The unbelievably bad customer service to order one, and dealer lack of knowledge or interest, stopped me. Half the products are not visible on their terrible DCU website, and the ones you want for iverlanding are the ones missing. You want the vertical sides, radius front one. I researched every camper buildout I could find, that was the consensus from folks who had them. But that model doesn't even show up!

Im in Phoenix with some giant Tom's Camperland and Camping World as their dealers, yet both these guys were clueless on available products and just really didn't care about a pickup topper.

So I bailed on this idea, and am absolutely glad I did. Went to a campershell with popup tent roof instead, soooo much better. Not far off in price for some.
LonePeak is about $7000, and Topo toppers Badlander is $8000. Gofast similar, though I wouldn't get one of those.

Ahh, sorry to hear that. Based on reviews I’ve read online, it seems like the dealers are so hit or miss. Fortunately I found one close to me who has been great to communicate with so far.

I would love an OVRLND camper, but the one I’d build would cost over $14000. The DCU as I’ve drawn it up would be right at $4k. Plus I figure the resale market would be decent if I decide to part with it, as many contractors and tradesmen seem to use them.

I like the LonePeak, but don’t know if I could get windoors with bug screens on it. Also can’t remember if they make one for an 8’ bed. I’ll have to double check.

I don't balme you, there are pictures of the lousy welds on mine somewhere on this site. If the other campers available now were available back then I would bought something else.

Have you had any problems with yours? The reports of shoddy build quality are concerning. But I don’t know how that stuff has affected the actual camping experience people have had. And I don’t know if it’s worth paying an extra $2000-15000 for better quality.

 

[FAW3]

Good call - thank you. Will definitely keep the end result in mind before I begin. Do you have one of these? Which height did you go with?

I had a fiberglass topper from Leer/Leonard that was about 6" above the cab roof. Loved those 6"!

 

[chet6.7]

The ladder rack is light duty, it works for putting dry bags on the front of the shell. I haven't had any problem with the crankster grade welds, but life changed so I haven't used this truck like I was planning to. I suspect if I was flexing the bed like on previous trucks it wouldn't be good. I have a front slider on the shell, if you have the option, decide where you want the latch if you get a slider. I didn't see that option and assumed the latch for the slider would be on the inside like my previous three shells. The latch had to be reversed so I could open it from the inside, I don't have a slider on the truck. It doesn't latch quite right and I have to put tape on it to keep it closed. I have to seal the screws that hold the ladder rack on to the shell or it leaks. I think ARE, like much of the RV industry, builds stuff as cheaply as they can get away with.