ArkPak Charging Question

JPShooter

Adventurer
I'm placing an ArkPak730 (with a 125AH AGM Batt) in a trailer that is connected electrically to the tow vehicle (2008 Tundra with factory installed tow package) via the 7 pin connector.

So I have wired the trailer so that the Batt terminal of the 7 pin is connected (via 10 gauge wire) in a manner that I can hook up directly to my ArkPak that is in the trailer.

My question is what would be the best way to connect the hot lead from the 7 pin to the ArkPak for the purpose of charging while driving. I am not concerned with charging other than while driving (have solar for that).

Should I connect the battery lead directly to the ArkPak via an Anderson plug?

Or should I connect the battery lead to a cigarette lighter type plug and then plug the ArkPak provided DC to DC cigarette style plug into that plug.

I've tried to contact ArkPak, but they don't answer and have not called back, and their online forum seems to be less than regularly monitored and I need to get on with my installation now.

My concerns are that the cigarette plug option using the DC to DC charger will be a slower charge than going direct via the Anderson plug.

It is my understanding that the factory installed tow package is properly setup to regulate battery charging through the battery lead of the 7 pin connector. I've called my local dealership and they said the same, but one just never knows what advice is good and what's not.

I would appreciate any insight all you fine folks might have with this situation.

Thanks!
 

1Louder

Explorer
In this situation I believe you need to add a dual battery controller because you are bypassing and not using the one built into the ArkPak. The concern is over charging the battery in the ArkPak. I also believe this is what ArkPak told a friend of mine in a similar situation.
 

TacomaAustin

Observer
Should I connect the battery lead directly to the ArkPak via an Anderson plug?

Depending on the battery size, you may need to add at a minimum a pair of dedicated #4 or #6 gauge cables to the truck battery and a solenoid operated disconnect near the truck battery. Why use such set of cables? DC voltage drops over a long wire via an Anderson connection may only get your trailer battery up to a 12.2 to 12.4 volt charge.

Or should I connect the battery lead to a cigarette lighter type plug and then plug the ArkPak provided DC to DC cigarette style plug into that plug.

My concerns are that the cigarette plug option using the DC to DC charger will be a slower charge than going direct via the Anderson plug.

Yep, filling a full-size battery via a cigarette outlet will be like filling a swimming pool with a garden hose. It takes time, which in this case is measure in hours. If you have the hours to spare, this is how I would use the ArkPak - as it will eventually bring an AGM battery up into 13 volt range.

I would appreciate any insight all you fine folks might have with this situation.

Thanks!

You could do a combo of the above. Use the truck's charging system for a quick bulk charge and then switch over to the ArkPak's DC to DC charge cord to top off the Auxiliary battery using the Absorption cycle, which ArkPak calls its Boost cycle.

Now, for my own concerns. I don't have a lot faith in the robustness of the ArkPak's internal electronics to simultaneously charge my AGM battery in the DC to DC mode - and - handle the load of my truck fridge.

For now, I'm have a separate #8 gauge power port to run the fridge, while the ArkPak charges off the cigarette lighter port in the cab of my truck with no load.

My future plan is to bypass the ArkPak's DC to DC mode charge circuit entirely with either a CTEK 250S Dual or one of REDARC's chargers like the REDARC BCDC1206. The CTEK 250S Dual has a higher ampere rate in the bulk stage - but the REDARC DC - DC charge has excellent reviews.

https://www.redarc.com.au/Content/Images/uploaded/Manuals/BCDC1206 Instruction Manual.pdf

I don't know if the voltage chart will display - but here goes for an old school flooded lead acid battery.

voltchart.gif
 
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JPShooter

Adventurer
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Depending on the battery size, you may need to add at a minimum a pair of dedicated #4 or #6 gauge cables to the truck battery and a solenoid operated disconnect near the truck battery. Why use such set of cables? DC voltage drops over a long wire via an Anderson connection may only get your trailer battery up to a 12.2 to 12.4 volt charge.

Since I'm not willing to run a new set of wires from the truck batt to the trailer batt (and I understand your point now, that it is required, as I have now looked at wire gauge vs run for 12v), this will not be an option for the time being. Perhaps in the future if needed.

Yep, filling a full-size battery via a cigarette outlet will be like filling a swimming pool with a garden hose. It takes time, which in this case is measure in hours. If you have the hours to spare, this is how I would use the ArkPak - as it will eventually bring an AGM battery up into 13 volt range.

So for now I will install the cigarette lighter style receptacle and use the DC to DC. Slow will in all likelihood be fine for me at this time as I don't see staying out for more than 4-5 days at present. With a topped off 125AH batt from the house, and a top off on the road, and solar in camp, I imagine I will have no problems. The fridge, an ARB 63QT will be the big draw and then it's just led lights and a fan. I doubt it will be a problem with a 100 watt solar setup. So, a slow charge while driving should be acceptable.

Now, for my own concerns. I don't have a lot faith in the robustness of the ArkPak's internal electronics to simultaneously charge my AGM battery in the DC to DC mode - and - handle the load of my truck fridge.

I read somewhere in the ArkPak literature that they state that charging and using it simultaneously is OK. I've been running the ArkPak and the ARB through various cycles out in my shop for the last few days with this config as one of them. No problems so far. Of course in the shop my charge is via the mains adapter and not a 12v source, but it's been humming right along.

Thanks for the input Austin, as well as 1Louder, much appreciated!
 

TacomaAustin

Observer
Skip the idea of charging directly off the 7 pin connector. Except for rainy days, if you have a 100 watt panel, that alone should keep up with the current draw from the fridge.

I've read that a Morningstar SunSaver MPPT charge controller utilizes a 3 stage charging algorithm. It is basically utilizes an algorithm similar to an ArkPak. In other words, it is capable of maintaining bulk and absorption cycles that are above the 14 volt level.

By the way, I'm the second owner of an ArkPak 715 and so far, so good. Since, I use the battery pack in the cab of my truck, I like being able to move it indoors for storage and have a ready to roll, built-in battery maintainer.

The addition of a 100 watt solar panel and the proper charge controller would be a huge boost of confidence on my end. Until then, I'll continue to use the 12v to 24v DC converter to replenish whatever charge I can - while the aux battery is not under any load. According to an Equipt1 test report, my fridge uses significantly less than 1 AH of charge per hour in order to maintain a steady temperature. So, I may be a tad too conservative with regards to DC to DC charging.
 

JPShooter

Adventurer
Well, I got the trailer configured this afternoon/evening with the hot lead from the 7 pin wired to a cigarette lighter style plug. Plugged in the ArkPak (which was very close to a full charge already) and the LCD on the ArkPak showed a charge of approx. 50 watts coming in from the 7 pin connection.

My intent, obviously, is to leave my home fully charged and just keep the ArkPak topped while the ARB is using the ArkPak. With the 50'ish watt's that I saw today coming in from the truck's alternator there should be no problem keeping the battery topped while running the fridge.

And as you stated there should be no problem (assuming a reasonable amount of sunshine) to keep the battery topped with a 100 watt panel.

So far so good!

We are planning our first trip with the new rig in a about 8-9 days, so it will be interesting to see how it all works out.
 

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