AT fluid flushed, screen changed, now AT light on, won't upshift..

[SlimPickins]

Hey all,
1998 Gen 2.5 here.
So I followed the flush procedure using the return hose removal technique, replaced the oil cooler hoses with new ones, OEM Mitsu AT fluid as recommended, removed trans support crossmember, removed pan, changed filter/screen (WIX), buttoned back up to spec, refilled, checked level warm, now AT light on and doesn't seem to shift out of first gear during quick trip around block... Two things I humbly admit, the bottle jack supporting the tranny decompressed as I forgot to place the jack stand in its place so the tranny hung unsupported for two days as I couldn't do it all in one go but pan hadn't been removed yet. Also, as I was chasing out the old fluid with new with motor running in N, some leaked down the filler tube and may have soaked the electrical connection sitting just above the tranny oil pan along the path of the filler tube. I can't be sure about this as it was dark and my lamp was struggling but it looked wet.

Gets better. When I had the front end elevated some for the flush, car in N, parking brake engaged. Now my parking brake light is on even when the brake handle is disengaged and I hear an intermittent metal on metal scraping sound which increases in frequency with acceleration and slows with deceleration...

Wait. There's more. Battery/voltage light is now on as well.
I realize these are three separate issues but for all to occur after the AT flush is confusing

Rolling your eyes yet? I know this screams 'NOOB!' but I swear I've done this stuff for years without issue. Yeah, everybody says that. I'm pretty lousy at diagnosing and trouble shooting and have obvious uh 'gaps' but I'm intent on learning my way through this thing with hammerlike precision...

Thanks for any help and happy holidays.

 

[KyleT]

What fluid did you use for the transmission? What model montero? Gen 2.5?

Brake light is prob low brake fluid.

Metal on metal sound is prob brake pads worn, goes along with low fluid because the piston is pushed further out. Check the pads and rotors for wear.


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[donaldcon]

Could be air in the system, if you let it hang for 2 days with out the pan on it.



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[Toasty]

There is a procedure for getting the air out of the valve body after a complete fluid change, I don't have a manual handy but it is something like at idle run through entire range both directions with brakes and parking brake engaged no throttle.

 

[SlimPickins]

What fluid did you use for the transmission? What model montero? Gen 2.5?

Brake light is prob low brake fluid.

Metal on metal sound is prob brake pads worn, goes along with low fluid because the piston is pushed further out. Check the pads and rotors for wear.


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Yes, sorry 1998, thought it was in my signature line which it ain't.. Used the OEM Mitsu fluid. My brake pads are ok, rotors fine, fluid fine, no brake issues until doing this flush. Wondering if I stretched brake cable when tranny hanging...

 

[SlimPickins]

Could be air in the system, if you let it hang for 2 days with out the pan on it.



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True but I didn't have the pan off during that time. Pan was only off for the time it took to clean up the old gasket material and change the filter/screen and refit the pan, maybe an hour and a half.

 

[SlimPickins]

I'll go through and clean up any electrical connections that may have been hit by AT fluid.

As far as the brake, perhaps I stretched brake cable when trans was hanging?

Any other ideas?

 

[SlimPickins]

Maybe air in system as I did replace all of the oil cooler hoses?

 

[jeep-N-montero]

You very well could have stretched some wires for the brakes and the transmission.

 

[MummifiedCircuitry]

My brake light stays on when I drop the ebrake sometimes when the weather gets cold. I traced it down to the float/plunger in the brake fluid reservoir. I just remove the cap and wiggle it free, and next time I start it up, the brake light is off. You might try that.

 

['round n' back again]

scraping: check your dust cover on torque converter.

no shift sounds like what a trans will do when low on fluid, but what do i know im but one guess away from the nut farm on this one

elec connections should be weather tight

this is not or should not be a serious issue when you discover what the culprit is.

are u comfortable that the new cooling lines are not kinking, collapsing?

 

[PA_JERO]

All of those lights actually sounds like your alternator took a crap. Probably just by chance it went when you got it back together. I've have my truck run funny when an alternator failed.

 

[PacS14]

Plus one on the alternator, i had to replace mine a few times and my 4x4 lights would never stop flashing, I replaced the shifter ball and nothing changed, finally I thought my battery was causing my alternators to stop working so I replaced both and then everything worked beautifully, no more flashing lights, etc.

 

[snare]

Let us know what you find out OP

 

[SlimPickins]

Back home after the holidays and had some time to put to the Monty. I rechecked the fluid level and actually had to drain about 3/4 of a quart as it was a bit overfilled. I disconnected my battery for a couple of hours (vs the 2 minutes ish after AT flush/fill) and rechecked the new AT cooler hoses I'd installed. All looked ok. After reconnecting the battery and starting 'er up, the AT lamp is no longer lit so that's encouraging. Unfortunately I still haven't driven it to see if it'll upshift (wouldn't upshift on initial drive after flush/fill and AT light was on) because of the scraping noise. I lifted up the rear end, blocked the front tires, started 'er up and put it in D to see if I could get underneath and isolate the noise. Seems to be coming from the rear drive shaft where it inserts into the back of transfer case. As the shaft spins it seems to be intermittently scraping something at the insertion point. Looks like there is a dust cover at that point but I can't see how to adjust/align it. Did check the FSM without much luck. Must have done something (duh) when I removed the crossmember near the AT drain pan and transmission hung unsupported inadvertently. Any ideas? Is there some sort of realignment procedure if that is the issue? I'm thinking of removing the crossmember again (with tranny supported..) and make sure things are lined up correctly. Anyone run into this? No dice on a search.. Thanks to all that have replied.